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My new Technics SL-1310MkII and the famous cueing problem

Iak said:
Hey Gary, thanks for this. I wasn't sure what you meant about the adjustments so continued looking online and found the solution on how to do the adjustments right here on audiokarma https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...iliar-with-this-little-optical-sensor.555421/

I now have the autoreturn working as well. Incredible!

Now back to solving the lights.

This place is incredible.
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Just a thought. Does it have switchable voltage? Is it switched to the correct voltage?
 
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gary7 said:
Just a thought. Does it have switchable voltage? Is it switched to the correct voltage?
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Ah crap. I just switched the voltage to test it. It was on 240. I moved it to 120, powered on, it made a hum and shut down. I now have a blackout/shutdown of entire power across both voltages. No longer working in any way... what happened?
 
Iak said:
Ah crap. I just switched the voltage to test it. It was on 240. I moved it to 120, powered on, it made a hum and shut down. I now have a blackout/shutdown of entire power across both voltages. No longer working in any way... what happened?
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Sounds like someone was messing with the internals before you got it.
 
Something was not right. I've had gear that I did not realize was set at 220, plugged in and as yours, was just dim. Switched to 120 & no big deal. Could possibly be some wires touching that shouldn't. Don't make no sense.
 
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gary7 said:
Something was not right. I've had gear that I did not realize was set at 220, plugged in and as yours, was just dim. Switched to 120 & no big deal. Could possibly be some wires touching that shouldn't. Don't make no sense.
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I don't understand either. I visited a local repair guy for advise and he mentioned that the transformer may have blown in the voltage shift. Not sure if that's case. I might change all the fuses as a test before looking at the transformer? Is this a good idea? It's odd that it would blow if moving from 220 to 120?

Also, can't work out why the service manual has only one fuse listed and drawn up in the circuit board drawing - the 400mA...
There are at least three I see when I open it up. One at 650mA and the others at 250mA etc (going off recent memory on these mAs - apologies if incorrect)
 
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I'm sorry for your issues with this table. It does suck that your almost there and something else blows. I've been there too. Are the fuses in it blown? I still just does not make sense that switching from a higher voltage setting to a lower one would have blown it, unless there was damage to internals from the previous owners before you got it. If you have a qualified tech near, let him look at it. These tables are well worth resurrecting if you can.
 
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I seem to be reading quite a few comments about Technics turntables and problems with cueing and arm operation in some form or another, is this a weak area of these TTs?
 
Guest140 said:
I seem to be reading quite a few comments about Technics turntables and problems with cueing and arm operation in some form or another, is this a weak area of these TTs?
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It is a relatively simple fix though - especially with the shapeways 3d print of the infamous part now available and the detailed info shared on posts like these.
 
Guest140 said:
I seem to be reading quite a few comments about Technics turntables and problems with cueing and arm operation in some form or another, is this a weak area of these TTs?
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There are certain models that have known issues due to there age, plastic gears breaking & hardened grease. That goes with other makes of tables, too.
 
So according to the repair guy, it's the transformer that's cooked.
I really didn't understand that changing voltage could do damage like this.

Anyhow, the goal now is in finding a 240v for Australia.
Anyone have one lying around? Let me know.
 
Iak said:
So according to the repair guy, it's the transformer that's cooked.
I really didn't understand that changing voltage could do damage like this.

Anyhow, the goal now is in finding a 240v for Australia.
Anyone have one lying around? Let me know.
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Yikes! Well that sucks.
 
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Did the repair guy not suggest a transformer replacement, its nothing special, just buy a transformer from your friendly local electronics supplier of the correct voltage? Generic mains transformers are generally available in all types and sizes just buy what you need, they’re not expensive at this size.
 
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paddypaws said:
Did the repair guy not suggest a transformer replacement, its nothing special, just buy a transformer from your friendly local electronics supplier of the correct voltage? Generic mains transformers are generally available in all types and sizes just buy what you need, they’re not expensive at this size.
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Hi, yep each repair guy mentioned options. One was a step up converter - but the boxes are monsters to lug around, definitely a no go.
The other option was to replace it with a generic new close-as - but that modifications to its placement would be required given non identical sizes to original - prefer not to fudge around with that.

Luckily Gary above is helping me out. He found an exact matching part and it's making its way over soon.

I'll keep you posted.
 
Where in the tonearm tube is the black wire soldered or bolted? With white, blue, red, green, everything is clear. The black wire I can not understand how to replace it.
 
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