New member and new Accuphase C-200 owner...
- Thread starter cube-tube
- Start date
rich121
Active Member
I have an Accuphase C-200X that I would love to upgrade the caps and resistors and whatever else that would benifit the pre-amp.
I have the original service manual with schematics too.
I have read that the opinion is that there are few, if any, replacement caps that would not change the sound and that only a few caps are recommended to be replaced.
I just wish there were a few who have gone through their C-200 series, knowledgeable about which are the best caps and where, same with other parts and upgrade them with a before/after review.
I have the original service manual with schematics too.
I have read that the opinion is that there are few, if any, replacement caps that would not change the sound and that only a few caps are recommended to be replaced.
I just wish there were a few who have gone through their C-200 series, knowledgeable about which are the best caps and where, same with other parts and upgrade them with a before/after review.
lindo
New Member
request for info
Hello all :yes:
I am also preparing a rejuvenated my
C 200 (and my P 300) is there a list of components to change it are there things that should not be changed
Complete information about the renovation interest me I've traveled extensively Forum :tresbon:
All thank you in advance
(I'm sorry, my English is not good. I'm French but I treat myself)
Hello all :yes:
I am also preparing a rejuvenated my
C 200 (and my P 300) is there a list of components to change it are there things that should not be changed
Complete information about the renovation interest me I've traveled extensively Forum :tresbon:
All thank you in advance
(I'm sorry, my English is not good. I'm French but I treat myself)
Cesari0
Active Member
Just got a combo of a C-200 and P-300 about 2 weeks
Went to the sellers house hear the units for about an hour.
Sounded good.
Opened the units up yesterday, and this is what I found on one of the boards:
Power Supply Assembly:
Filter/Output Assembly:
Capacitors:
I wish I had gotten the units at a bargain, I thought i was getting something that was 100%, I just felt awkward asking the seller to open up the units to let me see them.
Went to the sellers house hear the units for about an hour.
Sounded good.
Opened the units up yesterday, and this is what I found on one of the boards:
Power Supply Assembly:
Filter/Output Assembly:
Capacitors:
I wish I had gotten the units at a bargain, I thought i was getting something that was 100%, I just felt awkward asking the seller to open up the units to let me see them.
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rich121
Active Member
For some reason, the pictures only show up as boxes with red "x's" in them... I'm assuming from your post though, that they don't look good inside..what are you seeing, corrosion?.... or has someone already openend and done some work on them?
I have the C-200x that is in perfect condition and hope to go through it next year.
I see you also have some nice Sansui gear...I have the AU 11000A and TU 9900 both in near perfect condion...I use them in my basement, but also would benifit a going through.
Good luck with your Accuphase gear...
Rick
I have the C-200x that is in perfect condition and hope to go through it next year.
I see you also have some nice Sansui gear...I have the AU 11000A and TU 9900 both in near perfect condion...I use them in my basement, but also would benifit a going through.
Good luck with your Accuphase gear...
Rick
Just got a combo of a C-200 and P-300 about 2 weeks
Went to the sellers house hear the units for about an hour.
Sounded good.
Opened the units up yesterday, and this is what I found on one of the boards:
Power Supply Assembly:
Filter/Output Assembly:
Capacitors:
I wish I had gotten the units at a bargain, I thought i was getting something that was 100%, I just felt awkward asking the seller to open up the units to let me see them.
pics didn't upload...
Let's try this:
While I certainly see some sloppy work, I don't see anything that would keep me from buying them. Nothing appears to be raped and pillaged (you'd not believe the stuff I've seen over the years, and on an "ugly and fOObar'd" scale of 1 to 10, this looks like maybe a 2.5 - 3).
All this really needs is a conscientious tech with a bit of understanding of Accuphase gear. I don't see anything that can't be put right with a little bit of work. And what you paid might seem high, but for a C-200 and P-300, that's a fair discount from the usual selling price.
If you are truly uncomfortable with what you see, talk to the seller. But even if he offers no solace, it's doesn't appear that you are stuck with some horrid pieces that are beyond restoration.
While I certainly see some sloppy work, I don't see anything that would keep me from buying them. Nothing appears to be raped and pillaged (you'd not believe the stuff I've seen over the years, and on an "ugly and fOObar'd" scale of 1 to 10, this looks like maybe a 2.5 - 3).
All this really needs is a conscientious tech with a bit of understanding of Accuphase gear. I don't see anything that can't be put right with a little bit of work. And what you paid might seem high, but for a C-200 and P-300, that's a fair discount from the usual selling price.
If you are truly uncomfortable with what you see, talk to the seller. But even if he offers no solace, it's doesn't appear that you are stuck with some horrid pieces that are beyond restoration.
rich121
Active Member
Thanks for the pics EchoWars...
Good luck with the C200/300
Good luck with the C200/300
Let's try this:
While I certainly see some sloppy work, I don't see anything that would keep me from buying them. Nothing appears to be raped and pillaged (you'd not believe the stuff I've seen over the years, and on an "ugly and fOObar'd" scale of 1 to 10, this looks like maybe a 2.5 - 3).
All this really needs is a conscientious tech with a bit of understanding of Accuphase gear. I don't see anything that can't be put right with a little bit of work. And what you paid might seem high, but for a C-200 and P-300, that's a fair discount from the usual selling price.
If you are truly uncomfortable with what you see, talk to the seller. But even if he offers no solace, it's doesn't appear that you are stuck with some horrid pieces that are beyond restoration.
Cesari0
Active Member
Well, I'm going to pretty much replace all the resistors to be on the safe side.
Couple of questions if you guys don't mind. This board is pretty fried, so I want to replace most of the components.
1) Would it be ok to get 1% resistors in stead of 5%, I know most resistors are 1/2 watt.
2)the blue resistors I believe are 1w, Is it OK to replace R1 and R4 with 2W 9.1k resistors, like I read on the thread.
3) I'm thinking of replacing diodes D1-D4 with similar diodes 5w 180v, and I also have to replace the 5 on board 716-0003-00
4) my 2SA776a is gone, I'm planning to replace the replacement with 2SA970 and the 2SC1416 with 2SC1845
5) the ceramic disc capacitors don't look in great condition, one for sure is flaking, would it be wise to replace all 6?
Help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Couple of questions if you guys don't mind. This board is pretty fried, so I want to replace most of the components.
1) Would it be ok to get 1% resistors in stead of 5%, I know most resistors are 1/2 watt.
2)the blue resistors I believe are 1w, Is it OK to replace R1 and R4 with 2W 9.1k resistors, like I read on the thread.
3) I'm thinking of replacing diodes D1-D4 with similar diodes 5w 180v, and I also have to replace the 5 on board 716-0003-00
4) my 2SA776a is gone, I'm planning to replace the replacement with 2SA970 and the 2SC1416 with 2SC1845
5) the ceramic disc capacitors don't look in great condition, one for sure is flaking, would it be wise to replace all 6?
Help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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cube-tube
Super Member
1) 1% resistors are just fine, just tighter tolerances.
2) If you're referring to the power supply board, those original resistors are 1/2 watt. Putting 2 watt resistors in there and having them angled like I did drastically reduces the heat.
3) If they look fine physically, no point in replacing them. You can if you want, but I doubt you'll hear any difference.
4) I'll leave this one to someone else who knows better.
5) If you question the condition of ANY capacitors on any of the boards, just replace them. Keep them as close as possible to the original values.
Please feel free to post progress pics on here if you like.
BTW, I sold my C-200 a while back. I simply needed to downsize my system for our small apartment. Now we live in a nice, big apartment... Go figure. :dammit:
Cesari0
Active Member
Thanks Cube-Tube.
Sorry to hear you sold yours, it looked really good after you were done with your upgrades.
I was thinking of angling them like you did, I'm thinking of angling all since I'm replacing them.
I'll keep the diodes as they are, I will how ever replace the disc capacitors.
What I find weird is that in the service manual, R11-R12 calls for a 560Ω 2W resistor.
I'll to keep what's on the board, as suggested by Echowars on this thread.
Quick question: I couldn't find a 71.5kΩ, 68.1kΩ or a 27.4kΩ resistors, is it ok is if go 70kΩ, 68kΩ and 27kΩ?
Sorry to hear you sold yours, it looked really good after you were done with your upgrades.
I was thinking of angling them like you did, I'm thinking of angling all since I'm replacing them.
I'll keep the diodes as they are, I will how ever replace the disc capacitors.
What I find weird is that in the service manual, R11-R12 calls for a 560Ω 2W resistor.
I'll to keep what's on the board, as suggested by Echowars on this thread.
Quick question: I couldn't find a 71.5kΩ, 68.1kΩ or a 27.4kΩ resistors, is it ok is if go 70kΩ, 68kΩ and 27kΩ?
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CMF71.5KHFCT-ND
CMF68.1KHFCT-ND
CMF27.4KHFCT-ND
1/2W, 1% metal film. At Digikey.
The values were tough to find because these are standard 1% resistor values, not the 5% or 10% jobs. These are fine for the 'special' values you needed, but the rest of the resistors (except the higher power ones) should be replaced with Yageo 1/2W carbon film resistors. The part number for these at Digikey is easy...
[value]H-ND
Thus, if I wanted a Yageo 1/2W carbon film in a 10 ohm value, the part number would be 10H-ND. A 4.7K would be 4.7KH-ND. Easy peasy. And these resistors look a lot like the originals, so the board won't be screaming 'I've been worked on!'
The 'blue' resistors (they look green to my colorblind eyes) are fine left alone if they (and the PC board behind them) do not show any signs of burning. If you want/need to replace them, stick with the same value and wattage. I use the Panasonic 5% metal film resistors, which come in 1W, 2W, and 3W. There's a lot less values available for these, but the numbers go like 'P[value]W-[wattage]BK-ND'. Thus, a 9.1K, 1W resistor would be P9.1KW-1BK-ND. These power resistors I like to mount a bit above the board (1/8" to 1/4") to protect the PC board from scorching.
The 2SA970 and the 2SC1845 are fine. And the supplement schematic I have shows R11 and R12 as 330 ohm, 1W.
You should really, really also start your own thread in the Vintage Solid State forum.
CMF68.1KHFCT-ND
CMF27.4KHFCT-ND
1/2W, 1% metal film. At Digikey.
The values were tough to find because these are standard 1% resistor values, not the 5% or 10% jobs. These are fine for the 'special' values you needed, but the rest of the resistors (except the higher power ones) should be replaced with Yageo 1/2W carbon film resistors. The part number for these at Digikey is easy...
[value]H-ND
Thus, if I wanted a Yageo 1/2W carbon film in a 10 ohm value, the part number would be 10H-ND. A 4.7K would be 4.7KH-ND. Easy peasy. And these resistors look a lot like the originals, so the board won't be screaming 'I've been worked on!'
The 'blue' resistors (they look green to my colorblind eyes) are fine left alone if they (and the PC board behind them) do not show any signs of burning. If you want/need to replace them, stick with the same value and wattage. I use the Panasonic 5% metal film resistors, which come in 1W, 2W, and 3W. There's a lot less values available for these, but the numbers go like 'P[value]W-[wattage]BK-ND'. Thus, a 9.1K, 1W resistor would be P9.1KW-1BK-ND. These power resistors I like to mount a bit above the board (1/8" to 1/4") to protect the PC board from scorching.
The 2SA970 and the 2SC1845 are fine. And the supplement schematic I have shows R11 and R12 as 330 ohm, 1W.
You should really, really also start your own thread in the Vintage Solid State forum.
Cesari0
Active Member
Thanks ECHOWARS, I have started my own thread here:http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=6317496#post6317496
grundigger
Well-Known Member
Damn, Glenn, those pics hurt my eyes.
grundigger
Well-Known Member
I know that wasn't your work--just kidding. Looks more like my skills on display, sadly.