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New Owner to Yamaha GT-2000 TT

zoojunkie said:
The nut I cracked I did.


Success.


The pace, the bass, the details, the midrange, and the rhythm is better than the Rega P6 I came from. The Rega is a more laid back sound. Though it's extremely hard to A/B turntables with different carts installed, but there are differences you hear that are more distinct to a certain turntable. I can't wait for my new Hana SL MC coming in. I think I've spent 24 hours working on this turntable to sound it's best.
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Well it is a relief to know that you figured it out.

How did you arrive at a solution?
 
Lots of reading and long hours w/ trial and error got me very close to what I have now. I think in the course of fixing this tonearm and finding the best alignment points, I may have killed my Mofi cart. At least I learned a ton.
 
I clean and regressed all the pivot bearings on the arm. Aligned the cart using the 14mm overhang and a protractor from fern n roby. Got a new headshell that allowed me to better align the cart to the printed lines on the protractor. The arm will still pull away from the spindle, but definitely not as much as before. It's very close to excellent sounding and when a new cart comes in, I'll be able to dial it in. I'm sad I broke my mofi cart.
 
So I had to rebuild the tonearm. I tore apart the tonearm and found the source of the torque that was acting on the wand when it was centered over the spindle. There's a manufacturing defect in the C cup that cradles the wand and wand holder for the horizontal axis movement. The top and bottom of the needle bearing screws are in bore axis centered to each other. As a result, when you adjust and tighten up the wand to this C, it's slightly skewed causing the wand to move "downhill" when it's positioned over the spindle. I adjusted as best I could with some washers and now it's much less, still there but much less. I couldn't adjust anymore because the entire assembly would impact the walls of the pocket which the assembly sits in. SMH what a mess. Ordered a new tonearm, but in the meantime, I can at least listen to the deck without pulling out my hair.
 
Overall though, the tonearm is ok, it does the job, but what I not a fan of is the lack of information on the tonearm specs. All the tuning of the bearings I had to do by feel and measurements. Well, at least it's working now. I picked up a Fidelity Research 54 arm and a Glanz arm. We'll see if it makes this deck Tremendous.
 
I showed in the Social Group thread that there is a Vestax turntable with an identical arm

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zoojunkie said:
I just took apart the tonearm pivots bearings, cleaned the inside of the tonearm tube! Spider nest! Lubed, reassembled, torqued Linn tight, aligned the cart to 14mm overhang and adjusted the vta and vtf.

So far so good? I even eyeballed the tracking force.
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Hey, you still there zoojunkie? I'm having very much the same problem you had. My tonearm flies to the outside of the record. Often it rolls off when I try to set the needle down at the start of a record.

My question is... Your solution was to clean the whole thing? you found a literal spider nest in the tonearm?

Thanks
 
at least I'm not alone with that weird issue...

This seems to have been the solution to the issue?
zoojunkie said:
So I had to rebuild the tonearm. I tore apart the tonearm and found the source of the torque that was acting on the wand when it was centered over the spindle. There's a manufacturing defect in the C cup that cradles the wand and wand holder for the horizontal axis movement. The top and bottom of the needle bearing screws are in bore axis centered to each other. As a result, when you adjust and tighten up the wand to this C, it's slightly skewed causing the wand to move "downhill" when it's positioned over the spindle. I adjusted as best I could with some washers and now it's much less, still there but much less. I couldn't adjust anymore because the entire assembly would impact the walls of the pocket which the assembly sits in. SMH what a mess. Ordered a new tonearm, but in the meantime, I can at least listen to the deck without pulling out my hair.
Click to expand...

ordering a new tonearm really isn't an option, though.. Unless there are other tonearms that would be compatible without costing more than the turntable itself..
The YSA-1 or 2 are simply over the budget I'm willing to spend, especially for such old parts.
the YA39 tonearm is 700-1k and the YSA-1 is 1800-2300 USD before shipping and taxes..
And who knows whether they won't exhibit similar issues?!
From what I can tell, the YA39 and YSA-1 share the exact same tonearm base?
Some versions of the YSA-1 seem to rely on a different "pillar" for the vertical alignment (made from chrome/nickel plated stainless steel rather than aluminium?!), but that might be an aftermarket part, or an attempt to fix the issue I'm dealing with?!

And the rest looks to be identical..

To the point where it looks like you could simply take the straight tube and install it instead of the J-tube from the YA-39?!

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so.. uh.. I'd be paying 1'000!!!!! USD for a straight aluminium tube with an angled headshell that cannot be replaced for a different aftermarket headshell?!

yeah.. I really don't see the appeal of the YSA-1
 
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