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New to me 2252b and 5110 tape deck

SteveHammond

Beautifully Restored by the grace of God!
I told my wife months ago when she asked me what I wanted for Christmas and I said nothing for Christmas or birthday, but if she could find me a deal on a marantz receiver that I’d be thrilled! (Good deals on marantz stuff is nearly impossible) so yesterday she said she found one on da bay so I looked it up. It’s a 2252b and includes a 5010 tape deck all for 305 dollars but I have to drive to pick it up lol. I told her that even if it was 10 bucks that I couldn’t buy it right now and then she said the most amazing thing to me she said “ I’ve already talked to my mom and dad and your mom and dad and they’re all going to pitch in and make sure you have how much you need) needless to say the tears were on full flow I just couldn’t believe it. Anyway, the receiver needs work and parts like balance pot and knob and bass knob also an am antenna on the back and probably a restoration. And the tape deck needs belts and an alignment. I can do the work but can’t find some of the parts like the balance pot, knob and an antenna. I’m not asking for any parts in this thread but if you know of any in barter town please pm me and let me know so I can get them or whatever. The only other thing I need is suggestions and recommendations and a BOM for the restoration. Thank you all for reading this, I hope your Christmas is as special as mine is going to be! Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all my fellow AK’rs!

steve
 
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if you know of any in barter town please pm me and let me know

Congrats on your 52b, I have one and enjoy it a lot.

Can't help with any tech stuff, but in regards to the 'quote'... instead of waiting for someone to pm you, go to BT and use the search function to see if you get any hits. Better yet, post a WTB ad yourself. Good luck.
 
Thank you and I have done just that for both the search function and the WTB ad with zero results thus far.
 
Wow, congratulations and good luck! Fixing it up will be fun and rewarding. Also, you probably know but some parts are common between the receivers in the "B" series, like that balance slider I believe, so maybe you can find one from a 2220B (etc.) and it would work. I've sort of thought that if I had a receiver with a non-working balance pot I might try to figure out how to bypass it, since I rarely adjust balance. I hope your lamp housing is in good shape. I really wish they didn't use that self-destructing plastic, but then who would have thought that 50 years later we'd still be trying to make them work.

I'm sure that whatever you run into you will get plenty of help here. It's a great group of people on this forum.
 
A fairly labor intensive method for finding parts that interchange with your model is this: get a free membership to hifiengine.com. Once you can log in, go to Library —>Marantz—>Stereo Receivers. It will list all models. Go to 2252 and download the service manual for the b model. The parts list is near the bottom. It can take some work to find the part name at first, but a pot is going to start with R and have a number after it (like R008). There is usually a photo of the front of the unit near the top of the service manual that labels the controls by part name. Once you figure out the part name, then locate It on the parts list and it will show a lengthy part number. Write that down. Now, decide what units might have the same part (other b models), go back to the Stereo Receivers page, select them, download their SM, and do the same search on their part. If you are lucky, you will find a few other units with exactly the same part number. You can use that info to widen your search on eBay and Bartertown. Like I said, it’s somewhat labor intensive, but doesn’t take as long as you might think. This is pretty much a must-have tool for replacing unobtanium parts for vintage receivers.
 
A fairly labor intensive method for finding parts that interchange with your model is this: get a free membership to hifiengine.com. Once you can log in, go to Library —>Marantz—>Stereo Receivers. It will list all models. Go to 2252 and download the service manual for the b model. The parts list is near the bottom. It can take some work to find the part name at first, but a pot is going to start with R and have a number after it (like R008). There is usually a photo of the front of the unit near the top of the service manual that labels the controls by part name. Once you figure out the part name, then locate It on the parts list and it will show a lengthy part number. Write that down. Now, decide what units might have the same part (other b models), go back to the Stereo Receivers page, select them, download their SM, and do the same search on their part. If you are lucky, you will find a few other units with exactly the same part number. You can use that info to widen your search on eBay and Bartertown. Like I said, it’s somewhat labor intensive, but doesn’t take as long as you might think. This is pretty much a must-have tool for replacing unobtanium parts for vintage receivers.
I do thank you both for the great advice you offer. I already have the SM on hand and as far as the balance control unlike the standard 2252 the b version has a rotating potentiometer instead of a slider and so far are unobtainable through any source. I’ve found a balance knob, bass knob, but that is all and I’ve looked extensively through many sites. I too hope that the plastic housing for the lights isn’t broken or disintegrated. The am antenna on the back is nowhere to be found either although another units antenna may work I’ll just have to do the part number search. I’m not sure if the mod expansion slot in back is supposed to have a cover or not but if it is that to is missing. The balance pot is missing half its shaft iso I have to figure out some way to remedy that or replace the entire pot or just the shaft if I can find a donor pot of the same dimensions. What I could really use is a well thought out bom and an advanced one which contains more components than just a recap bom. Some advice on components to look for to replace would be helpful as well. Although I can do all of the work myself, I’m more familiar with pioneer gear rather than marantz. I’ve rebuilt a 1030 but that’s not quite as involved as the 2252b. I’m currently restoring an sx-939 and afterwards an sx-1250 for two customers of mine. I’ve searched extensively on this site and a few others for a bom but as I said could only find a recap list. It would be nice to know bad transistors and other usual and unusual parts to look for and either check or replace and any known troubled areas that I need to pay special attention to. Thank you again for the assistance as it’s greatly appreciated!


Steve

p.s. the tape deck that comes with it is a 5010B version as well and any pertinent restoration information for that would be a very nice addition to the above.
 
56AA6514-99D9-4E6A-AD78-93480D4699C5.png 12925F95-445E-43A7-A338-689C737F31BE.png 1BE51989-7189-445E-8CED-3931A449A930.png 6DF14C6A-E544-4AB7-9CCD-A5A8C488DFDA.png FBF1E57A-4D1A-4EC1-9040-939666A8DF65.png So here are a few pics of the receiver and tape deck I’ll be getting. Can I get some positively creative input on how to approach these items. Not sure where or what to start first so I’m hoping you marantz experts can step in and give me a few POSITIVE pointers. I’ve already heard “use it as a boat anchor” and my favorite “leave it on your deck so I can take that ugly thing away without you knowing.” Sorry, these pictures aren’t the best, when it’s in my shop I’ll post better ones.
 
Those parts are the ones that are usually missing from that series of receivers. The silver-dial Marantz receivers are rarer than the more common 2230/2245/etc series and parts are harder to come by. The AM antenna is particularly hard to find and I have seen those sell for upwards of $50-$75. The knobs and antenna are the same across the entire series as far as I can remember, from the 2216B all the way up to the 2285B or possibly higher. The potentiometers should be the same on the 2238B and 2265B. The others in that series might have the same ones but I don’t know. Check the part numbers in the manuals to find out. Knobs on later cheaper gear like the SR5100 may be the same or extremely close. Expect to pay $20-25 apiece on knobs unless you get lucky. Set up some eBay saved searches and be patient. It can take months to track down parts sometimes.

The balance slider is repairable. There was a thread about it recently. Search this forum and I’m sure it’ll turn up.
As far as a bill of materials for the SX-1250 or 939, I’m pretty sure there is a full list for the 1250. There maybe one for the 939 as well but I don’t know for sure.

It’s fairly easy to determine what goes in those, however. Just replace all the power supply and power-related capacitors with Nichicon PW or Panasonic FC with slightly higher voltage ratings, replace all the audio capacitors with Nichicon KT and Wima film for the smaller values.

I personally prefer to shotgun all the small signal transistors, almost all of which can be subbed with KSA992/KSC1845 and a few others. There are various transistor sub threads around the forums or you can just google “2SC1312 replacement” and so on in order to find replacements. Use the board markings to figure out pinouts.
 
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2252B's are vastly more common that the 2252. They made the 2252 for one year in 1977. The 38B, 52B, and 65B are cost reduced, feature enhanced versions of the non-B models, are all built on an identical chassis with lots of common parts, and came out in 1978. They were the last mid-range models prior to Superscope selling the brand.
 
View attachment 1711377 View attachment 1711378 View attachment 1711379 View attachment 1711380 View attachment 1711381 So here are a few pics of the receiver and tape deck I’ll be getting. Can I get some positively creative input on how to approach these items. Not sure where or what to start first so I’m hoping you marantz experts can step in and give me a few POSITIVE pointers. I’ve already heard “use it as a boat anchor” and my favorite “leave it on your deck so I can take that ugly thing away without you knowing.” Sorry, these pictures aren’t the best, when it’s in my shop I’ll post better ones.
I have replaced belts in a couple of Marantz decks. They are usually available in sets on eBay. It requires some disassembly of the transport mechanism, and in the two I did, I had to desolder the wires to the tape heads to be able to replace the belts. Tedious, but not too difficult. Just get the service manual from hifiengine.com, study it, take several photos before you start, and watch for the mechanical connection between the transport and the electrical control board under the transport (with unit upside down). While it’s open, look for pivot points with gummed up old grease, clean with 91% isopropyl alcohol, and lubricate sparingly - use grease, not oil on pivot points. Old belts may have turned to black goo, which is messy to clean up with alcohol. If you are handy at disassembly-reassembly of mechanical things, you should have no problem. Good luck!
 
I have replaced belts in a couple of Marantz decks. They are usually available in sets on eBay. It requires some disassembly of the transport mechanism, and in the two I did, I had to desolder the wires to the tape heads to be able to replace the belts. Tedious, but not too difficult. Just get the service manual from hifiengine.com, study it, take several photos before you start, and watch for the mechanical connection between the transport and the electrical control board under the transport (with unit upside down). While it’s open, look for pivot points with gummed up old grease, clean with 91% isopropyl alcohol, and lubricate sparingly - use grease, not oil on pivot points. Old belts may have turned to black goo, which is messy to clean up with alcohol. If you are handy at disassembly-reassembly of mechanical things, you should have no problem. Good luck!
Thank you for the tips as everyone so far has provided some sound advice. I can do any of the things so far that has been recommended thank goodness it’s my therapy. I want so badly to put together a bom for the receiver. I’ve had the service manauals as well as the owners manuals for both items way before I purchased them (I collect manuals because I try and study or keep up with that technology and hopefully learn some differences between brands and how they are both similar and their differences as well. I’ve been studying the sm’s for both units extensively, I’m actually on my way to pick them up as we speak my wife’s driving so I’m in good hands lol. I’m so excited to be getting these two items. I had enough money left over to purchase the balance knob, bass knob, and ac outlets which were very reasonably priced. I wish I knew if the balance pot was a dual or single I just know it’s a fifty ohm from the service manual but can’t tell from the pic dual gang or not. Have any of you restored either or both of these units? I see Fromm the sm’s that they don’t seem that difficult, presently I’m doing complete restorations on a pioneer sx 939 and then an sx1250 for two customers of mine I’ve just never restored anything other than a 1030 marantz so I don’t have much experience with them, matter of fact I’ve got a model 1250 that I’m going to send to @rBuckner for restoration as he came highly recommend and I didn’t trust myself with that restoration and I know he’ll do a great job. I know there are some vast differences in semiconductors between brands, I’m use to pioneer and marantz semiconductors aren’t the same so to speak. I’ll hush for now but by all means keep the tips rolling in as I truly appreciate you guys experience and help and once I start the restore I’ll start a new thread for them in the marantz area because I know I’ll need your expertise! Thank you all!

steve
 
Well, I just picked them up and he was nice enough to cut the price by 55 bucks since his mom was super rude to the wife and I. Had it not been for the four and a half hour drive one way I would’ve turned and went home. Anyway, to say the least, it’s rough inside, very dusty dirty but I plugged headphones in and at least got stereo sound in the cans. It wouldn’t pick up strong stations which could possibly mean its in dire need of an alignment or possibly more, I probably shouldn’t speculate what it needs at this point cause it’s in the trunk and I’m in the passenger seat left alone with that experience and my thoughts (that’s scary.)We met at a place that he his mother and sister owned called “motel deluxe” I am in no way putting these people down whatsoever but it was what we called in the military a “rat n nat place” one level and about ten rooms total. He said he got them at an estate sale obviously for a far less price than I paid since he took 55 off the top without blinking and I’m very thankful for the price break and his kindness. We went into one of the rooms (reminded me of Norman bates and psycho) where he provided me with a #2 Phillips and cans because I’m a dummy and forgot to bring ANYTHING that I wanted to bring. I was initially afraid to power it up after removing the cover but he pressed the power button and it came to life, all controls were scratchy to say the least except the pushbuttons all to be expected I guess (this is my very first marantz receiver or cassette deck) this resto is gonna be fun and I say that enthusiastically! I’m looking forward to doing all I can to turn it from rags to riches so to speak. The cassette player door took quite a bit of coaxing to open and I kindly handed him the Linda Rondstat tape that was in it for him to keep as I thought it might be his although it turns out it wasn’t, but I’m not into her music so.......all I can say is that I’m going to provide pictures once I get it on my bench and I’m going to need some marantz expertise to get these units restored but come hell, high water, or hairlipping the pope I’m gonna do it. That’s all I have for now, pictures to follow later on.
 
Well, to say I’ve got my work cut out for me is such an understatement but as promised, here’s some porn for you fellas I can remember a time when a letter from home was almost as good as the real thing but not really well, same goes for these pics yes the deck has black goo all over the mechanical parts especially the capstan flywheel. The tuner needs to be pressure washed to do any good really, BUT! The receiver sounds great through cans, through speakers not so much. Between the speaker switches, balance,treble,bass, and volume knobs they probably just need to be taken out back and shot, put out of their misery. I’m honestly excited about what I can do with this thing and imagining the possibilities of what it can become are endless I’ve envisioned it in many ways. Maybe that sounds strange to some of you but that’s cool, we aren’t made from the same mold. I think a vision and imagination is what we lack in our creativeness. I kinda feel like I’m blogging this for myself because not too many of you probably have the time to read my ramblings and for those that don’t if you’ll just ignore my words and look at the pictures, I could really use some help on where to start with this thing and the cassette deck which comes first the chicken or egg? What or where would you start if you were me?7B3B0C53-E8AA-401D-8529-CFF825099258.jpeg 2CB7D49F-7023-4B66-9EDB-263DC65929D8.jpeg D0CB83D0-7283-4C7A-A75F-58C5AC171BA9.jpeg 0CC78114-E05A-445D-A28F-7CF158B55D20.jpeg 6ECFFDD5-2A6D-4EA0-8E08-176C8278C0BF.jpeg 41C0B97D-FA31-4FCB-A5BE-EEF2B02DA000.jpeg B2BB9E5D-99F7-4090-9A58-B176C67082A8.jpeg 70ED874D-2982-4E9C-B0F6-2243CAFB495C.jpeg AD4ACA24-5BC5-4D72-8C6E-AA5934D5A48F.jpeg 6B64DA6F-28F1-456B-8AAA-F2A6E225390D.jpeg 7B3B0C53-E8AA-401D-8529-CFF825099258.jpeg 2CB7D49F-7023-4B66-9EDB-263DC65929D8.jpeg
 
Hey Steve - congrats on surviving the purchase process on these! Can't provide any advice on the cassette deck, I stay away from that sort of voodoo. On the 52B, I'd start with a blowing out of the dust with an air compressor if you have one. After that it would be a cleaning with Windex and an old toothbrush, drying with compressed air. I also use one of those really cheap paint brushes, 1" wide and cut the brush end back about halfway. I modify the toothbrush by blowing on the "neck" with a heat gun and bending the head a little so that you don't tear the skin off your knuckles on the back side of pc boards. Some rinse after a Windex wash but I don't. Definitely don't use a pressure washer nor a dishwasher! Some use alcohol, brushes and Q-Tips. Let it dry out a good 3 days or more before powering up.

My habit is to recap the power supply first, then proceed with whatever catches my attention next. On these series the power supply is at one end of the big amp board on the right and at the forward end of the board if I'm remembering right.
 
Hey Steve - congrats on surviving the purchase process on these! Can't provide any advice on the cassette deck, I stay away from that sort of voodoo. On the 52B, I'd start with a blowing out of the dust with an air compressor if you have one. After that it would be a cleaning with Windex and an old toothbrush, drying with compressed air. I also use one of those really cheap paint brushes, 1" wide and cut the brush end back about halfway. I modify the toothbrush by blowing on the "neck" with a heat gun and bending the head a little so that you don't tear the skin off your knuckles on the back side of pc boards. Some rinse after a Windex wash but I don't. Definitely don't use a pressure washer nor a dishwasher! Some use alcohol, brushes and Q-Tips. Let it dry out a good 3 days or more before powering up.

My habit is to recap the power supply first, then proceed with whatever catches my attention next. On these series the power supply is at one end of the big amp board on the right and at the forward end of the board if I'm remembering right.
Thanks for the pointers Randy, and I’ll definitely start with the power supply. But I do have one issue with it that’s baffling me, I’ve used deoxit on all switches and controls and THOROUGHLY CLEANED THEM ALL, I unfortunately have the type of switch that can’t be easily taken apart because the pin has a blade of metal above it preventing its removal. The problem I’m having is this, I have normal sound now through the dubbing output and headphones out and through speakers, the right channel sounds perfectly normal BUT the left channel is low and thin has no depth but if I turn the volume all the way up and balance only on the left channel it’ll start out scratchy, low volume, and thin is the best I can describe it. If I leave the volume turned all the way up the left channel will slowly increase in volume and the thinness goes somewhat away and you can hear some bass but it’s still slightly scratchy and distorted, turn the volume down and it returns to low and thin again. I did some looking and noticed that a fellow on here had the same issue which turned out to be Q03 on the tone board short from emitter you collector I believe so I checked the transistors on that board and they’re all good, no bloated capacitors or bad solder joints through the entire unit. My personal feeling is that I either have a bad differential pair on the left channel or bad predriver and although unlikely a bad output trans but as of now I haven’t checked them yet I will though in a bit. Like I said though it sounds amazing through the cans or dub out. I’ve been studying the amp board schematic to figure out how to diagnostically approach this. Do you have any thoughts about this? I spent all last night cleaning as you can tell it came from a smoking home and we all know what smoke residue will do. I’m eventually going to put together a bom and submit it for vetting but at this point I don’t want to shotgun it as that’s more headaches. I would like to however fix the left channel and play it for a bit while I put together the bom. I noticed that they used 2sa750’s for the differential pairs and 2sc1885 I believe for predrivers again I’m not sure because my eyesight just isn’t what it used to be. I could really use some input on this left channel issue. Thank you for your reply Randy, it’s always nice to know you’re in my corner when it comes to the marantz issues. I welcome comments and suggestions from everyone especially if you have the same model receiver and have or had this issue. Thank you all!

steve
 
One thing I did do already is adjust the power supply for a steady 35 volts and both channels bias to 24mv with zero offset.
 
I also have one other issue among the many that are concerning to me but this one in particular really stands out. When turning the tuning dial I noticed that the black wheel and shaft try and back out of the tuning capacitor and I can actually pull the shaft all the way out. I do not know how to remedy this and it is I feel a major issue. I have this same issue with a fisher rs series receiver and I’m not quite sure hot it’s to be fixed ANY input on that I would definitely appreciate!

steve
 
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