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New to me 2252b and 5110 tape deck

SteveHammond said:
Thanks Tom, yes unfortunately that ship sailed but I managed to get it back together and I know I’m going to have to do a tuner alignment already cause the tuner is just like “Damn!”
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im just getting catched up here as I am working my own 2252B...if I am reading this right it seems the plastic wheel the tuning string is wound around came off the v-cap shaft? nothing needs aligned then (well, nothing needs aligned any more than it did before) just tune the vcap to a known station eg 101.5, then sorta move the plastic wheel so the string moves and puts the dial on or near 101.5, press on and voila. retain with a drop of threadlocker. you are essentially gonna do this anyways when you take off the pointer to replace the incky with an led
 
quaddriver said:
im just getting catched up here as I am working my own 2252B...if I am reading this right it seems the plastic wheel the tuning string is wound around came off the v-cap shaft? nothing needs aligned then (well, nothing needs aligned any more than it did before) just tune the vcap to a known station eg 101.5, then sorta move the plastic wheel so the string moves and puts the dial on or near 101.5, press on and voila. retain with a drop of threadlocker. you are essentially gonna do this anyways when you take off the pointer to replace the incky with an led
Click to expand...
Actually, that’s not the problem at the moment, I’ve said the wrong words to too many so I’m going to try and be concise and simple. The tuner dial wheel and shaft doesn’t stay In but is not a problem at the moment. Right now I’m trying to find a solution for the linear balance control as there aren’t any comparable ones to replace it with. I’m doing a full restoration and have my bom but it’s not been vetted yet and in that bom I want to make sure that mj21193g/94g are suitable replacements for the output transistors. I also need to know and I can’t think of the part numbers off the top of my head but the large differential driver pair on the amp board, I’m thinking 3055tu but I could be wrong as I’ve seen TO-220 style replacements used I.e. mje??????? Also, are 1n4148’s suitable for the glob diodes in this unit. The left channel at the moment has no sound and no bad parts in the signal path, but I get stereo sound through the headphones. I have been given very solid and knowledgeable advice from everyone in this thread although I’ve inadvertently sent the said things in reply to Catrafter that easily could be thought of as a put down although that’s absolutely not the case. And I think I’ve also ticked a few off with my wording or at least I think I have I’m not sure. I appreciate the knowledge, support, and kindness I’ve been shown with audioKarma members and my wording is just terrible sometimes. I’ve read this four times to make sure I don’t say anything that could be misconstrued as impolite. Thank you for your reply to my thread.

Steve
 
I'm good, Steve. I didn't take anything you said as a put down.
If the headphone jacks work, look for a bad speaker switches or broken wires.

Tom

2252B sp.jpg
 
catrafter said:
I'm good, Steve. I didn't take anything you said as a put down.
If the headphone jacks work, look for a bad speaker switches or broken wires.

Tom

View attachment 1719581
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Thank you @catrafter I replaced both speaker switches as a set since one was shot anyway. Afterwards I put everything back together but still no dice, no left channel. I do however have wonderful sound in the headphones. I’m pretty sure after removing the outputs and heat sink that I have blown outputs. Although they measure somewhat ok, the two large differential pairs under the metal clips which have the corrosive glue on them are also the culprits as well. I believe there might have been a chain of events although no fuses were blown. Does anyone know the correct part numbers for the large differential pair on the amp board. They are TO-220 style and start with MJE?? But that’s one option, I’m sure there are others. Sorry to not include components location numbers but it’s not in front of me at the moment or the schematics either. Thank you all.
 
catrafter said:
I'm good, Steve. I didn't take anything you said as a put down.
If the headphone jacks work, look for a bad speaker switches or broken wires.

Tom
Click to expand...

+7 on what he said. full amp power is available at the headphone jack, except for the relatively large resistors that limit current to nil for the headphones. that being said you can run headphones all day, and also small speakers on just the drivers. I do this to test the meat of the amp before I commit to drivers.

so we know up to the drivers you have a good amp. why do you think the outputs are blown? since they are in nice sockets you can flip them around. as for the differential pairs, they are to92s way far away from the heat sink. are you referring to the drivers? they seem to be the only paired to220s and if they say 'MJE' on them now, then someone has already been in there. FWIW, the drivers are complimentary paired. the real differential paired are just mirror devices of each other. and you will replace them with KSA992F matched up.

there is no law that says you cannot probe the speaker switches, with wires.
 
quaddriver said:
+7 on what he said. full amp power is available at the headphone jack, except for the relatively large resistors that limit current to nil for the headphones. that being said you can run headphones all day, and also small speakers on just the drivers. I do this to test the meat of the amp before I commit to drivers.

so we know up to the drivers you have a good amp. why do you think the outputs are blown? since they are in nice sockets you can flip them around. as for the differential pairs, they are to92s way far away from the heat sink. are you referring to the drivers? they seem to be the only paired to220s and if they say 'MJE' on them now, then someone has already been in there. FWIW, the drivers are complimentary paired. the real differential paired are just mirror devices of each other. and you will replace them with KSA992F matched up.

there is no law that says you cannot probe the speaker switches, with wires.
Click to expand...



Well, I have made an EXTREMELY startling and hugely embarrassing discovery this evening. About a month ago I purchased a relatively inexpensive set of brand new book shelf speakers from parts express and at some point I must have cooked the left speaker because the driver was stuck solid. It broke loose with light pressure from my fingers but even still, the entire speaker is toast. I can’t believe I didn’t catch such a simple thing. I have fretted and sweated a pioneer sx-939, 1250, my 2252b, and I finally made the discovery on a Heathkit ar 1515 tonight. I replaced the original speaker terminals with screw terminals at the owners request. I did what I feel was a very professional job but when I hooked it up to my test speakers, no audio in the left channel I thought oh my god I’m cursed. I removed the left speaker off the wall pulled the cover off the front and lightly pushed the woofer FROZEN! Ok, so I owe everyone on AK who’s racked their brain trying to figure out my left channel woes a super big apology. I’m the dummy with the left channel problem not the gear ugh! I was so frustrated that I’m waiting until tomorrow to check the 2252b on my Bose 301’s that I know are functional and see if I still have or ever had for that matter a left channel problem. I shall now accept my cigarette and blind fold and voluntarily go stand in front of the AK firing squad....................!
 
Hah! No problem. Operator error is my middle name, and a fairly common one around here. I hope that speaker wasn’t shorted and blowing up left channel outputs all over the place. Let us know how it turns out.
 
Well, I’m happy to report that I have stereo sound through both left and right speakers. Bose 301’s, a gift from my dad a while back. I’m just glad to be out of the 50’s now. Hell, I’m 21st century now!
 
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