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New to me 2252b and 5110 tape deck

It sounds like a preamp side issue as the amps set up properly but that's just a guess. But it could be in the amps somewhere. You can cross patch the preamp outputs to the opposite main amp inputs with RCA cables if there are separate jacks on the back. Some will disagree with me (and that seems to be sport for some people) but I'd suggest to recap the tone amp board after the power supply rebuild to see if that remedies the left channel issue. In general though if headphones sound fine and speakers don't that's sometimes due to open output transistor junctions. The DUB out jacks are before the tone control amp and except for the tuner and phono are pretty much coming from the aux or tape in jacks directly, via the function selector switch.

The front ends of that era did get rather cheesy and I've seen the shafts come out. I think this may be "normal" and while not ideal is okay. The drum wheel that the dial cord goes around will keep the shaft in place mechanically. It is unsettling, I agree! Kind of like those multi deck rotary switches that the flat shaft can back out on. I've adopted the standard procedure of fashioning a brass keeping tab and soldering it to the back so that can't happen. That great tip came in from my friend Tom/Catrafter. Anyway if the dial cord pulleys need to come off, say for a lamp housing repair or replacement, tape down the dial cord to all pulleys and tuner drum with masking tape (the good stuff, not blue painter's type) and tape the front end drum so it can't come off.
 
Roger all that and thank you for your assistance, I have the amp board out and flipped upside down so I can more easily de-solder re-solder components. Absolutely no grease to speak of left on the outputs, that’s a shame and tells me that this thing had been ridden very hard and put up wet.
 
2870260E-927D-4611-B5D7-B8EFF0189D05.jpeg B6FB94BE-2F1A-45E5-8C3C-6BA1D787D7A6.jpeg 327FA73E-D5AE-4092-87F7-1FF8018D2350.jpeg Such a shame about the outputs and the lack of care in general this ol girls seen. I’m going to do the power supply this way unless anyone has an issue with the parts I’m going to use.

C-733 470uf 63v Nichicon UVZ series
C-734 1000uf 63v Nichicon UVZ
C-735 33uf 50v. Nichicon UVZ
C-739 1000 16v up it to 25v UVZ
C-738 10uf 50v Wima 10uf 50v
Q-750 2Sc1567 KSC 2690AYS
Q-751 2Sc945. KSC 945CGTA
Q-752 WZ-150 zener BZX85B15-TR I want to go with a 1 watt here
Q-749 W06B 1N4005
anyone see a problem going in this direction for the power supply?
 
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The tuning drum is just held by friction, it can't come off when the top case is on. If you have had it come off, you will have to properly align the gear and the little 'stoppers' so that the tuning capacitor can run through it's entire range as the gear etc. runs through it's range.

It is better to never pull the drum off, but if that ship has sailed, then it's a puzzle to get it back together.

Tom
 
catrafter said:
The tuning drum is just held by friction, it can't come off when the top case is on. If you have had it come off, you will have to properly align the gear and the little 'stoppers' so that the tuning capacitor can run through it's entire range as the gear etc. runs through it's range.

It is better to never pull the drum off, but if that ship has sailed, then it's a puzzle to get it back together.

Tom
Click to expand...
Thanks Tom, yes unfortunately that ship sailed but I managed to get it back together and I know I’m going to have to do a tuner alignment already cause the tuner is just like “Damn!”
 
^^^ 100% agree.

Just sent you a PM about caps but can say I don't prefer the VZ series caps although I love Nichicon. They're pretty generic and no doubt better than the originals when they were new that is! There are better series like HE and PW.

On tuner tweaking a set of plastic tools need to be acquired. I like the Aven ones at Digi-Key: 243-1016-ND
 
I’ve got all my plastic tools but could use some new better and more variety. and my caps should have said (PW) series not the other, my apologies.
 
SteveHammond said:
I have normal sound now through the dubbing output and headphones out and through speakers, the right channel sounds perfectly normal BUT the left channel is low and thin has no depth but if I turn the volume all the way up and balance only on the left channel it’ll start out scratchy, low volume,
Click to expand...

There are a pair of jacks on the rear panel: Pre Out and Main In. They are connected internally to each other. Those switches corrode and can cause the symptoms you describe.

To test, use a pair of RCA cables to connect the Pre Out jacks to the Main In jacks.

If the issue persists, here is another test: cross connect the Pre Out and Main In jacks with the pair of RCA cables. Left Pre Out to right Main In, right Pre Out to left Main In. See if the issue switches speakers.

Let us know what you find.
 
Push the black wheel/shaft back in and tune into a station near the middle of the dial that you know (for example KPOS 99.5) then pull the black wheel back out and turn it until the dial pointer lines up with 99.5, then push it back in. BTW they all do this with the cover off if you are not careful--I've had to do it on my 2252B, my 2100 tuner, and my Onkyo T-9... it is no big deal.
 
krautmaster said:
Push the black wheel/shaft back in and tune into a station near the middle of the dial that you know (for example KPOS 99.5) then pull the black wheel back out and turn it until the dial pointer lines up with 99.5, then push it back in. BTW they all do this with the cover off if you are not careful--I've had to do it on my 2252B, my 2100 tuner, and my Onkyo T-9... it is no big deal.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thanks for the tip, I’d like to find a permanent solution to keep it from ever coming out, kinda like most pioneers (I’ve not found one yet that comes loose unless you unscrew the black hub.)
 
krautmaster said:
Push the black wheel/shaft back in and tune into a station near the middle of the dial that you know (for example KPOS 99.5) then pull the black wheel back out and turn it until the dial pointer lines up with 99.5, then push it back in. BTW they all do this with the cover off if you are not careful--I've had to do it on my 2252B, my 2100 tuner, and my Onkyo T-9... it is no big deal.
Click to expand...
It's no big deal unless the gear and stoppers roll off the bench onto the floor!:jump:

Tom
 
Lmao! Thank god im smarter than that plus the fisher experience (it did the same thing) but the fisher was my first and I freaked out for a minute. I’m used to pioneers, they don’t seem to have that problem.
 
Also Catrafter, please don’t take my last comment thinking that I don’t think you’re smart hell you're much smarter than I’ll ever hope to be on this stuff. I just have a way with words sometimes, sheesh......
 
Does anyone know of either a modern or other manufacturer balance control that will work on my 2252b? I’ve searched extensively but can’t seem to find an exact match.
 
Sorry, I think I got this post confused with a different one. I am pretty sure the balance control on this is the same as the one on the 2238B, 2226B, 2265B, and maybe 2216B. Give it some time and one may turn up. Is yours just snapped off?
 
It’s not only snapped off, but someone at some point attempted to stick the blade of their knife into the wiper to “clean” it is what it looks like so it’s just completely non functioning
 
I’m looking for two quality caps for the main filter caps, I need 35 mm width, high ripple, 105deg, and spade terminal. I’ve looked through mouser and Digi-Key and I don’t find anything that meets at least well all of the requirements. Anyone have any suggestions? Thank you in advance. I’ve got my bom complete with the exception of the filter caps.
 
rBuckner said:
It sounds like a preamp side issue as the amps set up properly but that's just a guess. But it could be in the amps somewhere. You can cross patch the preamp outputs to the opposite main amp inputs with RCA cables if there are separate jacks on the back. Some will disagree with me (and that seems to be sport for some people) but I'd suggest to recap the tone amp board after the power supply rebuild to see if that remedies the left channel issue. In general though if headphones sound fine and speakers don't that's sometimes due to open output transistor junctions. The DUB out jacks are before the tone control amp and except for the tuner and phono are pretty much coming from the aux or tape in jacks directly, via the function selector switch.

The front ends of that era did get rather cheesy and I've seen the shafts come out. I think this may be "normal" and while not ideal is okay. The drum wheel that the dial cord goes around will keep the shaft in place mechanically. It is unsettling, I agree! Kind of like those multi deck rotary switches that the flat shaft can back out on. I've adopted the standard procedure of fashioning a brass keeping tab and soldering it to the back so that can't happen. That great tip came in from my friend Tom/Catrafter. Anyway if the dial cord pulleys need to come off, say for a lamp housing repair or replacement, tape down the dial cord to all pulleys and tuner drum with masking tape (the good stuff, not blue painter's type) and tape the front end drum so it can't come off.
Click to expand...
I tried cross patching the pre out main in and still get no sound from the left channel. I’ve checked outputs,drivers, and predrivers and although not perfect they are functional.
 
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