FlaCharlie said :
"Under what conditions?
One way I test is to play music at a level that's considerably louder than I normally listen and then pause the music. If there is no residual ringing I'm happy."
It rings like a bell if you flick it. I know that's not normal usage.
If I have the music up @ the volume I normally listen, and I pause it, it is ringing. There is a high pitched tone that slowly fades away.
"If the chassis is picking up vibrations from the music at normal listening levels you might try putting it on some soft foam to isolate it or move it further from the speakers.
Vibration from the chassis is transferred to the tube through the socket whether the "teardrop" contacts the board or not. So I doubt that's the issue."
I suppose that's true. I thought about making a box with a hinged lid, lining the inside with acoustic foam, and having a small hole in the rear for the rca cables to exit. The box would be used "upside down" , with the E6 sitting on the "lid". The box would be hinged @ the back.
Kind of like a turntable's dust cover, but with acoustic foam inside.
"The metal casing of the tube will not fit through the hole in the top of the chassis. If you wanted to use the tube with the casing on you would need to put the board in a different chassis and use chassis mount sockets that have enough clearance underneath them for the locator pin, which is considerably longer than the "teardrop"."
I thought about fabricating a small hole saw from a piece of copper tubing and using it to cut out the PCB in the center of the tube socket. Obviously this would remove the LED in the process. I haven't tried this as I'm unsure if they are using the LED for anything other than a light show. I've seen some circuits where they use an LED for biasing.
This chassis could be used if the PCB center-ectomy was succesful, I would just have to enlarge the openings for the tubes. Easy enough with a step-bit or a Dremel.
I tried running it "naked", outside of the chassis, but it wasn't any better.
I just finished resoldering 90% of the joints. I didn't resolder the 8-legged semi-conductor, nor did I resolder the surface mount resistors. I resoldered EVERYTHING else (surface mount caps and diodes too).
Still rings. Although it does seem to be a bit better. Perhaps that's just expectation bias.
"Under what conditions?
One way I test is to play music at a level that's considerably louder than I normally listen and then pause the music. If there is no residual ringing I'm happy."
It rings like a bell if you flick it. I know that's not normal usage.
If I have the music up @ the volume I normally listen, and I pause it, it is ringing. There is a high pitched tone that slowly fades away.
"If the chassis is picking up vibrations from the music at normal listening levels you might try putting it on some soft foam to isolate it or move it further from the speakers.
Vibration from the chassis is transferred to the tube through the socket whether the "teardrop" contacts the board or not. So I doubt that's the issue."
I suppose that's true. I thought about making a box with a hinged lid, lining the inside with acoustic foam, and having a small hole in the rear for the rca cables to exit. The box would be used "upside down" , with the E6 sitting on the "lid". The box would be hinged @ the back.
Kind of like a turntable's dust cover, but with acoustic foam inside.
"The metal casing of the tube will not fit through the hole in the top of the chassis. If you wanted to use the tube with the casing on you would need to put the board in a different chassis and use chassis mount sockets that have enough clearance underneath them for the locator pin, which is considerably longer than the "teardrop"."
I thought about fabricating a small hole saw from a piece of copper tubing and using it to cut out the PCB in the center of the tube socket. Obviously this would remove the LED in the process. I haven't tried this as I'm unsure if they are using the LED for anything other than a light show. I've seen some circuits where they use an LED for biasing.
This chassis could be used if the PCB center-ectomy was succesful, I would just have to enlarge the openings for the tubes. Easy enough with a step-bit or a Dremel.
I tried running it "naked", outside of the chassis, but it wasn't any better.
I just finished resoldering 90% of the joints. I didn't resolder the 8-legged semi-conductor, nor did I resolder the surface mount resistors. I resoldered EVERYTHING else (surface mount caps and diodes too).
Still rings. Although it does seem to be a bit better. Perhaps that's just expectation bias.

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