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Novalux Stereophonic - Things to check on vintage equipment.

The problem I've come across with the "wholesale recap" process is when someone isn't recording what they are doing. Or how the thing looked before the "resto."

Then, after the recap, the stupid thing doesn't work or sounds like it's going to blow up or something. The unit ends up on the bench, with a box of spare new and used parts.

These are not fun fixes — that I will not do them anymore.

:(

Makes sense, and I am hardly the most experienced, but when I find fusible resistors have drifted, I replace all of them. Certain units used known capacitors that tend to go bad, esp with heat like the blue Matsushita caps in Technics units. If you find one or two bad ones, you should probably replace all as they tend to leak as well. If everything tests within specs, no great reason to change parts that I see. And parts changes can cause other issues, like the difficult one to figure out that I had recently with a Technics unit where new transistors (replacing some blown ones) were much faster parts than the originals and were likely the cause of oscillation that blew up the RC components. Adding some capacitance in the right places fixed the issue, but some of these old circuits were designed quite specifically.
 
What happens when the relays are pitted like the ones in the first video? I know it would depend on how bad they are pitted but does it make the system sound worse, or does it make other things happen?
 
What happens when the relays are pitted like the ones in the first video? I know it would depend on how bad they are pitted but does it make the system sound worse, or does it make other things happen?
A pitted relay can cause random popping noises.
 
Relays should always be replaced, when possible.

Most have a different base-metal than the contact surface, once the original surface is pitted or filed/sanded away it is going to work better for a fairly short period of time anyway, and they’re not that expensive (again: when available).
 
Relays should always be replaced, when possible.

Most have a different base-metal than the contact surface, once the original surface is pitted or filed/sanded away it is going to work better for a fairly short period of time anyway, and they’re not that expensive (again: when available).
This is the best long-term answer. As long as good replacements are available.

:thumbsup:
 
I have never experienced that.
Old NAD amps used some not-so-great relays. They would have all kinds of oddball problems at times. Not just not turning on.

Many times, it's several problems. I've given up on some units.
 
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Felt like an idiot last week. My Adcom C272 would not power up. Bad fuse?
I unhooked everything, and dropped in my backup Onkyo M5010, plugged it in. It didn't power up either. Everything else in the power strip works.
Yep, an outlet on the power strip went bad even though the lights were still showing green.
Got a new surge suppressing power strip, and I'll try hooking it up in the morning.
Guess it's like the saying about the $500 picture tube blowing up to save the $.15 fuse.
In this case it was the $20 power strip blowing up
I guess I got off cheap.... but embarrassed.
Oh, I did plug it in to a different outlet, and it's just fine.
 
Guess it's like the saying about the $500 picture tube blowing up to save the $.15 fuse.
In this case it was the $20 power strip blowing up
I guess I got off cheap.... but embarrassed.
Oh, I did plug it in to a different outlet, and it's just fine.
For computers, TVs, audio, and shop fans, I use metal-cased multi-outlets. A friend's cheap plastic-cased one caught on fire.

I like metal-body Furman and Tripp-Lites. Buy them once and never worry about them again.

:thumbsup:
 
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As long as you do it correctly, with the correct parts.

I don't like wholesale fixes. I have seen the idea backfire on people. Just take lots of photos and keep notes on everything you do.

:thumbsup:
Yes, And as time consuming & tedious as it is, it`s best to do the recap in stages, testing by powering up the DUT`s after each recapped section before moving on to the next section, preferably using a DBT each time, usually starting with the PS, and moving on to the other sections from there, especially if feeling the need for more wholesale electrolytic cap replacement.
That way any recapping fault resulting issues are simply easier to go back and track them down and fix.

And of course one might initially observe outright visually failed capacitors upon first opening up the cover(s), and those should best be replaced first before initially applying power, at least in my opinion/experience.
 
testing by powering up the DUT`s after each recapped section before moving on to the next section, preferably using a DBT each time
i learned a hard lesson a while back. i did exactly this and passed the dbt every time. when i was "finished", i had a dead channel. had i tested audio every time, i would have known where the fault was.

now i try to do a sound check everytime i power up on the dbt.

moral of the post: just because it passed the dim bulb test does not mean it's right, it just means nothing is shorted that draws heavy current.
 
As long as you do it correctly, with the correct parts.

I don't like wholesale fixes. I have seen the idea backfire on people. Just take lots of photos and keep notes on everything you do.

:thumbsup:
Absolutely! Why just fix one little area to solve one issue while it's on the bench, put it back together and back in service? When I first got my untouched SX-1250, it performed great..but I knew the caps, transistors, diodes, switches and everything else that conducted current had to be nearing their EOL service so a total recap of all boards was in order.
 
Relays should always be replaced, when possible.

Most have a different base-metal than the contact surface, once the original surface is pitted or filed/sanded away it is going to work better for a fairly short period of time anyway, and they’re not that expensive (again: when available).
I agree 100%. I also try to replace [old] reed relays when possible, even if I have to do a PCB converter for the relay. It adds peace of mind.
 
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