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NS-1000 sucessor

Ontario? Thats quite a few thousand miles away i think.

If you can use a screwdriver, pliers and a soldering iron/solder sucker then i'll happily do a step by step procedure.
 
Just a hop skip and a jump then :)
I'm afraid my technical skills are very much lacking, I appreciate the offer though :thmbsp:
 
Nice work! :thmbsp:

How did you manage to pull out the six (6) parallel caps on the right of your first picture out of their sockets? I was afraid of breaking the plastic when I tried. But will eventually get around to it.

I used 14ga DHLabs to rewire the set that wajobu has. Was very happy with the results. Changed out the terminals to the cheapies that PE sells, but are better than the horrible things that are stock. Just have to do the NS-1000 I now listen to.

No problem on the tweets. Just give me a shout when the time is right.
 
Yamaha B-2 said:
Nice work! :thmbsp:

How did you manage to pull out the six (6) parallel caps on the right of your first picture out of their sockets? I was afraid of breaking the plastic when I tried. But will eventually get around to it.

I used 14ga DHLabs to rewire the set that wajobu has. Was very happy with the results. Changed out the terminals to the cheapies that PE sells, but are better than the horrible things that are stock. Just have to do the NS-1000 I now listen to.

No problem on the tweets. Just give me a shout when the time is right.
Click to expand...

Hi Glenn, i want to get them on stands first. I'll get those started this weekend, but i no intention of leaving the eltax units there at all, i'm aware this speaker needs to original units, do they come as a matched pair or in singles?

As for the 6 midrange caps, i didn't take them out. There is no need to, they are metallized paper, no reason for them to degrade at all, and they are made by nichicon too, they should be fine, all i changed for that section was the wiring connecting the 6 caps to the circuit board. I was going to hardwire the components but the more i looked at the circuit board i thought it really wasn't worth it, the circuit board has fairly thick wide tracks, alot better than many used even now. I'm using a 30 watt cambridge audio amp at the moment with them on the floor, this cambridge just doesn't seem to have any balls. I'll enquire at work tommorow where the main outputs for my B-2x have got to.
 
The tweeters are sold individually. Last I checked they were holding firm at $111. But currency flucuations will change that.

Am guessing you will hear a nice change once they are off the floor. Even on a six inch stack of books (like my brother's are) makes a noticeable improvement. Am also guessing you will hear a great improvement with the B-2x. Which, BTW, I thought you had up and running. I must not be paying attention.
 
Well..Poop. I guess I'm going to have to sell my babys for the down payment................................NOT!!!!!


Dave
 
the-real-mandak said:
Regarding the Soavo they seem interesting, now we just have to wait until they get vintage and we can get them cheep :)
Click to expand...

:tresbon: :D

Well said the-real-mandak, at least for the coming generations, they would still keep the Yamaha name up there.
 
morksbeanbag
I changed out the old electrolytic bass caps with new SCR and wilmslow supersound polypropylene caps, the old ones were both 47uF 50v making 94uF. I used a 39uF, 51uF and 4uF giving the same rating but with much higher voltage capability. The electrolytics i took out felt light, usually a sign they are dry.

All wiring was swapped out for flexible Gale OFC cable. The wiring for the midrange cap bank was replaced (the old stuff had started to corrode. I replaced this with laquered copper wire with the laquer scraped back only where needed. The large caps were held down with cable ties. The tweeter 2.7uF was moved to the underneath of the board as it wouldn't fit on top, the thin old linking wire connecting the tweeter signal across the board was replaced with a chunkier copper bus bar stolen from an RX-V800 power amp board.

The evil springclips were replaced with some good binding posts from a pair of Eltax symphony 8.2 speakers. No plastic parts on them.

Any loose peices of potential holes out to the back (near the binding post board) was covered with epoxy resin to seal everything.

The L-pads were given a good polish and clean.
Click to expand...
I'd be real curious to hear about the final sound test once you get a replacement OEM tweeter.Know anyone who might need a Left side NS-1000M cabinet..Ive got one just collecting dust.:scratch2:

Dave
 
If i was in the U.S i'd have it to make a NS-1000M centre out of. I think to ship it to the U.K would cost a hell of alot though.

I haven't got the B-2x ready yet. I'm changing out all the pre drivers and main outputs with modern Sanken units, i've got the pre drivers and the replacement transistors dotted around the board, i've two more transistors to replace and the main outputs to get in then they're ready to fire up. I'm really hoping my DSP-AZ1 comes today, i'll be using the B-2x for the NS-1000M's though, hoping to run the pre out of the center to the main L/R in on the AZ1 so i can bi amp the centre, then run the rear centre pre out to the spare center in amp so i can have seperate amps for two center rears.
 
As an ex owner of the DSP-AZ1, I can tell you that you will love this amp, it may have been made for HT, but Yamaha gave it a heart and soul of music, something they took away from the Z-9 which got into the power bragging match, I currently have the Z-9 and even thoug it kills my Z-1 on movies, somehow, while doing so, it lost the sweetness and musicality of the Z-1, thanfully my stereo system is separate from my HT, or else I would be selling off my Z-9 and buying back the Z-1.
 
For music i have the choice of C-2x into B-2x into NS-1000M, or AZ1 into B-2x into NS-1000M.

I know the C-2x will be a better pre amp but amp considering selling it simply because i don't want two pre amps in one system.
 
Just completed building my monster NS-1000M stands, VERY pleased indeed with them. Smart and extremely solid, massive overkill on build quality but i like that kind of thing.

Pics to follow of these!

The cabinets, crossovers, wiring and stands are now done.....must be time for some proper tweeters then! :banana:
 
I can't wait to see the pics of your stands. I've been looking for stands for mine for ages...they are on milk crates as we speak :thumbsdn:
 
NS-1000M stands

Hi ALL,

right here are the pics of my custom made NS-1000M stands.

Hope you like them. I used 90mmx90mm meranti hardwood section for the corners, 45x65mm meranti hardwood section for joining peices and 10mmx140mm monster coach screws to lock them together. Seems much beefier using a socket set to tighten them up rather than a screwdriver. :D

I did cut everything by hand, only used a saw, square, ruler, pencil and drill for making the entire lot. Easy once you get going.

You might think by looking at the pics i made them too deep for the NS-1000M's. That was done on purpose to accomodate the upcoming speaker grills without them hanging off the end if you see what i mean.
 

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Wow, those are beautiful, excellent job. I wish I had the skills to do that.
How high are they?
 
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