@odcics2 this was quoted from fellow aker... This is what was done to mine!
-
Foam surround: same as JBL 2214 - $15 (ebay) These are harder to refoam than most speakers, yes. But they're doable. Just take your time. Practice on something less valuable first.
-
Fuses: Bussmann GBB-4 4 amp ceramic fast-blow - $15 for 5 (ebay) Don't cheap out and get something else. A tiny strand of metal is the only thing protecting these fragile beauties from their ultimate demise. These are what Ohm spec'd. Use them.
-
Voice coil: 3” 4 ohm, part # VC8530-4 - $20 ea. (Speaker Exchange) The voice coil and spider only need to be replaced if you can see noticeable cone sag. This mis-aligns the voice coil with the magnet and you will notice that much more power is needed to drive the speakers properly. Mine didn't have any sag so I left them alone. But I researched the right parts just in case and the replacement should be just like any other speaker.
http://reconingspeakers.com/product/ohm-f-voice-coil-round-wound-4/
Note: Speaker Exchange also sells an 8 ohm voice coil. This would feasibly allow you to run these with less stout amps. I don't know how it would affect the overall sound though.
http://reconingspeakers.com/product/ohm-f-voice-coil-flat-wound-8/
-
Spider: 5.998”, maximum stiffness, part # CS-5998-E (the “E” version is the stiff one that you want. It will help support the unusually heavy cone) - $6 ea. (Speaker Exchange)
http://reconingspeakers.com/product/5-998-cup-spider-cs5998-e/
-
Foam seal between plinth and cabinet: Armacell insulation tape - $7 (Wal-Mart, Amazon, Home Depot)
-
Damping foam inside the aluminum section of cone: 1/4" Polyurethane Window Air Conditioner Filter - $10 (Walmart, Amazon, or Home Depot). This is the same open cell foam that Infinity used on their Walsh tweeters throughout the 70s. One package is enough to do both speakers. CAREFULLY scoop out the old, rotted foam with your fingers first. Then cut the new foam into 4 trapezoids to cover the inside of the aluminum fully but without overlapping. Apply a thin layer of adhesive spray and stick them in.
-Putty (clay) inside the titanium section of cone - Mortite titanium dioxide rope caulk. $6 (Walmart, Amazon, or Home Depot) CAREFULLY peel off any of the remaining clay (if any is left). Roll a few beads of Mortite into 3 rectangles 1/16” thin to cover most of the titanium section. It sticks right to the titanium with very little pressure.
-Some have suggested these be run with a high pass filter somewhere around 20-30hz. I think that's a good idea. I read somewhere that someone measured these down to like 10hz or something. They don't roll off like a typical driver and there are reports that certainly low tones at high volumes will crumple the driver. I could see that happening. In my experience, you don't need to be overly cautious when using them, but you should use common sense. They weren't designed to ever get really loud, and I try not to play anything super bass heavy on them. When used within their limits, I don't consider them an unreliable speaker.
