Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
rog,
High strength fishing line would work as well and be less visible.
High strength fishing line would work as well and be less visible.
Open Baffle Epiphany!
- Thread starter cptnCanada
- Start date
i may try that if i switch drivers. course with my new "grills" the wire is not visible either:yes:
OK, I have read a few online documents that have confused me to no end regarding baffle size and driver orientation.
Can someone simplify for me what size/orientation I might want to try for these 12" Morel Integrated drivers I am using. I recently bought some 2'x4' hardwood plywood to replace the temporary OBX baffles I made a few weeks ago. Before I cut into this more expensive material, I am wondering where the driver should be located.
I assume about 32-34" on-center, above the floor. I plan to angle the baffle a few degrees back and use two edge splines as anti-vibration as well as stands/supports.
Should I move the drivers inward on the board, or center them? Can someone estimate what frequencies will see a boost, or attenuation based on this orientation? I have read the pages on the EDGE program, but I don't run Windows.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Can someone simplify for me what size/orientation I might want to try for these 12" Morel Integrated drivers I am using. I recently bought some 2'x4' hardwood plywood to replace the temporary OBX baffles I made a few weeks ago. Before I cut into this more expensive material, I am wondering where the driver should be located.
I assume about 32-34" on-center, above the floor. I plan to angle the baffle a few degrees back and use two edge splines as anti-vibration as well as stands/supports.
Should I move the drivers inward on the board, or center them? Can someone estimate what frequencies will see a boost, or attenuation based on this orientation? I have read the pages on the EDGE program, but I don't run Windows.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
i used the edge baffle simulator to get ideas re driver placement
http://www.tolvan.com/edge/help.htm
in the end i just copied the martin king project 9...
http://www.tolvan.com/edge/help.htm
in the end i just copied the martin king project 9...
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
I also copied MJK's designs but on others where I free lanced using what material I had on hand they sounded good as well.
born2tech
Active Member
adding bottom to my ob`s
moved the project into a smaller space to facilitate experimenting, they are now closer to back walls and i can tell the difference, mine seem to like a bit more space behind them so final placement is not set, i had inherited a sony sa-wm20 subwoofer and needed to check it out, having control over crossover point and level would be a plus, i wasnt expecting much from a 50 watt 8 inch sw but wow, fricking wow. im getting a big fat sound with an open soundstage, this project just keeps getting better and better.
moved the project into a smaller space to facilitate experimenting, they are now closer to back walls and i can tell the difference, mine seem to like a bit more space behind them so final placement is not set, i had inherited a sony sa-wm20 subwoofer and needed to check it out, having control over crossover point and level would be a plus, i wasnt expecting much from a 50 watt 8 inch sw but wow, fricking wow. im getting a big fat sound with an open soundstage, this project just keeps getting better and better.
Attachments
So you gotta download the edge software and play around with it
um, sorry
you got bootcamp?
you got bootcamp?
MX117.MC7150
Listener
Played around with the 'edge' software for some time and everything I did gave me a -3db roll-off at 50hz until I went up to a 15" woofer.
Good for you:thmbsp::thmbsp: OB is a game changer! and if it isn't-- It sure is fun !! :thmbsp::thmbsp:
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
Found a cheap driver source that may work in open baffles.
It's the newest, improved $35 5 1/2 inch Dayton B652. High qts and it runs full range with a single 6.8uF cap on the tweeter.
Stick them in some cardboard baffles with their tweeters for a listen and see if they're promising.
Someone should try them and I normally would except that I've got too many current projects.
If they sound good the next step would be adding high qts woofers like the Alphas and bi-amping.
If you buy a pair and they don't work out then you're out little as they sound quite good in their little monkey coffins.
It's the newest, improved $35 5 1/2 inch Dayton B652. High qts and it runs full range with a single 6.8uF cap on the tweeter.
Stick them in some cardboard baffles with their tweeters for a listen and see if they're promising.
Someone should try them and I normally would except that I've got too many current projects.
If they sound good the next step would be adding high qts woofers like the Alphas and bi-amping.
If you buy a pair and they don't work out then you're out little as they sound quite good in their little monkey coffins.
This thread is inspiring.
Inspired me to buy some birch ply and find the Fostex drivers my gf gave me for Christmas two years ago. Still new in the box, hadn't found a place for them in several pair of home-made full range bass reflex speakers (Audio Nirvana). I cut two pieces of ply, 20"x32" a couple of days ago and put the drivers in centered. First impression was a big smile. Free from the box, like a cloud lifted. No more trying to get something satisfying from a bass reflex cabinet.
Of course there was a lot missing running just the FE126En 4" drivers open baffle. Things got amazingly better when I added what I've been using as computer speakers: Some Radio Shack full-range I got on sale for maybe $10 some years ago (40-1272D) in bass reflex boxes. They are now run by a little Parasound Zamp v.3, which has a loop out, and that goes to a Decware Zen Amp which runs the FE126En's. They don't have cross-overs, I've avoided them because I try to keep things simple for the sound.
There are probably conflicts between the speakers, but still, this is so good.
Now to get serious about the low end. I'll describe the room set-up and maybe someone can give me some ideas for the woofers and cross overs.
The wood floor room is 12' x 15'. The FE126En open baffles are hanging from the ceiling at listening height. The center of the drivers are 3' from the side walls and 32" from the back wall, which at the moment only has a window and curtains on it. Mainly I listen to solo instruments and chamber music, with some orchestral. If it's a choice I would pick fast and accurate over going really low. The H-frame construction looks like something I could do. They could sit under the baffles that are already hanging.
Questions: Which woofers for the H-frames to go with the FE126En's? How do I find the right size for the frames? If I need cross-overs, what would be good ones to keep the sound as untouched as possible?
Thanks for this thread, there's a smile on my face now listening to a quality of sound that's probably going to be getting even better.
Inspired me to buy some birch ply and find the Fostex drivers my gf gave me for Christmas two years ago. Still new in the box, hadn't found a place for them in several pair of home-made full range bass reflex speakers (Audio Nirvana). I cut two pieces of ply, 20"x32" a couple of days ago and put the drivers in centered. First impression was a big smile. Free from the box, like a cloud lifted. No more trying to get something satisfying from a bass reflex cabinet.
Of course there was a lot missing running just the FE126En 4" drivers open baffle. Things got amazingly better when I added what I've been using as computer speakers: Some Radio Shack full-range I got on sale for maybe $10 some years ago (40-1272D) in bass reflex boxes. They are now run by a little Parasound Zamp v.3, which has a loop out, and that goes to a Decware Zen Amp which runs the FE126En's. They don't have cross-overs, I've avoided them because I try to keep things simple for the sound.
There are probably conflicts between the speakers, but still, this is so good.
Now to get serious about the low end. I'll describe the room set-up and maybe someone can give me some ideas for the woofers and cross overs.
The wood floor room is 12' x 15'. The FE126En open baffles are hanging from the ceiling at listening height. The center of the drivers are 3' from the side walls and 32" from the back wall, which at the moment only has a window and curtains on it. Mainly I listen to solo instruments and chamber music, with some orchestral. If it's a choice I would pick fast and accurate over going really low. The H-frame construction looks like something I could do. They could sit under the baffles that are already hanging.
Questions: Which woofers for the H-frames to go with the FE126En's? How do I find the right size for the frames? If I need cross-overs, what would be good ones to keep the sound as untouched as possible?
Thanks for this thread, there's a smile on my face now listening to a quality of sound that's probably going to be getting even better.
Last edited:
Bonkers60
Super Member
I also have a pair of the Fostex FE126En full range speakers, that I am going to use with a pair of 15" Eminence Alphas. I am currently listening to the 126's stuck in an old cabinet. Like what I hear so far. They are going to go into a 20"x39" birch plywood baffle.
1.6 baffle, the size of your H-frame would depend on your woofer size. Lots of info buried in this thread. Does your Decware Zen have enough power have enough power for your 126's? I am using a Marantz 1030 integrated that seems a little weak, it probably needs to be recapped.
1.6 baffle, the size of your H-frame would depend on your woofer size. Lots of info buried in this thread. Does your Decware Zen have enough power have enough power for your 126's? I am using a Marantz 1030 integrated that seems a little weak, it probably needs to be recapped.
Still reading through the thread, almost done. It looks like the 15" Eminence Alphas are the standard for what I'm doing, which now is either an H-frame or a C-frame. Maybe it's because of my long history with bass reflex, but I'm still wondering if a smaller size might be quicker, more responsive, in other words a more accurate sound, with a trade-off of less bass.
It looks like maybe a few people have combined the high end driver with the woofer without any crossover or correction. I might try that and if not happy get the MiniDSP, which looks pretty great for the price.
Yes the Zen Amp has good power for the FE126En's. For most listening I have the source level a little above half and the amp level at about half.
Jim Shearer
Active Member
I don't know how you can get proper integration of the drivers w/o the XO. Not to mention the very real possibility of over excursion on the FE126en.
Please check out Martin King's excellent site:
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Theory.html
http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project09/Project09.html
I built a modified version of his small passive OB using Fostex FF85k & Eminence Alpha 15a with great results.
Cheers, Jim
I just read the first page of this thread looked at how many posts there are and then looked at the date, my god for such a short period this seems to be a highly regarded topic so I will share my experience.
I joined just over a year ago I then learnt of open baffle, I work in automotive. One day we replaced some oem speakers out of a mitsubishi I decided to upgrade the shop radio, so I gathered the speakers found a old cd/tunner from a car and needed to mount it all. I thought about it and found a piece of particle board, the only way I could do this was open baffle which I did the speakers were made for IB so it was a match made in heaven. being made from scraps around the work shop this radio sounds great for what it is and throws the sound through the whole shop even at fairly low volumes.
Thanks AK I would have never considered OB before I was a member here. I'm now building a hifi set.
I joined just over a year ago I then learnt of open baffle, I work in automotive. One day we replaced some oem speakers out of a mitsubishi I decided to upgrade the shop radio, so I gathered the speakers found a old cd/tunner from a car and needed to mount it all. I thought about it and found a piece of particle board, the only way I could do this was open baffle which I did the speakers were made for IB so it was a match made in heaven. being made from scraps around the work shop this radio sounds great for what it is and throws the sound through the whole shop even at fairly low volumes.
Thanks AK I would have never considered OB before I was a member here. I'm now building a hifi set.