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Open Baffle Epiphany!

PioneerGuy75 said:
I do have an old pair of University 3-ways...Would these be appropriate for OB use?
Thanks :banana::banana:
Click to expand...

They are indeed well suited to OB.

I'm using University Diffaxial 312 Series 200 speakers.

They were plonked down into 2'x4'x3/8" Russian birch plywood panels.
About 32" above the floor and offset slightly.

32" might be a tad high and I feel that an inch or two lower might be more optimal.

The Series 200 speakers have very nice silk dome tweeters in a spherical horn.

Magical.

University-312-Series200-specsheet-reduced..jpg


Spec sheet courtesy of member Tumbleweed.
Tumbleweed says the QTS is 30 Hz.

Thanks again Tumbleweed.

Art
 
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Hello everyone,
I am seeking help as to how am I going to improve the bass performance of these 10" hf1016, have been listening to it for the pass 6mths. Sound great but it's always the bottom end that let me down. Will it add more thump if I add wings on both side.

Any suggestions is appreciated....
 

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Low and wide is usually suggested for large single drivers.
About 3 feet wide by 2.5 feet tall angled back with wings and the driver low to the floor.
Unless you're using multiple drivers and plenty of juice or a sub to supplement the low end tall narrow panels won't give you much bass. Pesky laws of physics and all that...

edit: those 10" drivers don't look like they were made for much bass output.
 
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PR Audio said:
You can also do an H. Do you have any calculators to help you simmulate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I am not that good at math, and I don't have a stimulator. Will a 12" in H works fine or I need a 15".
The baffle dimension is 120x28cm, driver is about 93cm from the ground.
If I am going to build a H will it be stacking or separated?

Thanks
 
valvenator said:
Low and wide is usually suggested for large single drivers.
About 3 feet wide by 2.5 feet tall angled back with wings and the driver low to the floor.
Unless you're using multiple drivers and plenty of juice or a sub to supplement the low end tall narrow panels won't give you much bass. Pesky laws of physics and all that...

edit: those 10" drivers don't look like they were made for much bass output.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion, as I don't have a big listening room so I'm afraid I have to bare with it without much bass I guess....

Thanks again
 
I think your baffle is just too skinny and high to get any bass at all.
The width of the baffle should be around 2feet wide if you are expecting bass output from it at all. If you can substitute bass with a sub than you are OK with a skinny baffle.
 
alsonkguan said:
I am not that good at math, and I don't have a stimulator. Will a 12" in H works fine or I need a 15".
The baffle dimension is 120x28cm, driver is about 93cm from the ground.
If I am going to build a H will it be stacking or separated?

Thanks
Click to expand...

You don't need to be great at math, just have two fingers in front of you and be able to use 1/2 a brain, and I'm more than certain that as per what I've just said you are overqualified...PM your e-mail to send you a couple of calculators that are very helpful and will help you simulate.
 
pr audio said:
you don't need to be great at math, just have two fingers in front of you and be able to use 1/2 a brain, and i'm more than certain that as per what i've just said you are overqualified...pm your e-mail to send you a couple of calculators that are very helpful and will help you simulate.
Click to expand...

pm send thanks
 
darg said:
I think your baffle is just too skinny and high to get any bass at all.
The width of the baffle should be around 2feet wide if you are expecting bass output from it at all. If you can substitute bass with a sub than you are OK with a skinny baffle.
Click to expand...

You can add wings to your baffles to get more bass, but how much more depends on your speakers, room placement, etc. A cheap way to try this out would be to use heavy cardboard/corrugated with painters tape to hold the panels to the baffle.
Look at the first post, 'cheap' is what got this whole thread started! :thmbsp:
 
I have some Celestion PA drivers that I acquired through my nephew.
After reading about half of this thread, I am intrigued.

Are PA's worthy considerations for OB's, these in particular?



I have
3 - 15"
4 - 6"
2 - Horns

The specs are direct from Celestion's tech dept.

Thanks for your consideration.
Martin

Ps. I have a set of 12" Rola's and 4x10 Heppner horns as well from a Magnavox Astrosonic console.











[/QUOTE]
 
Even if the Qts is not very high I would try it. I have made the experience that Qts is not everything. I have tested two differentMagnavox 15 inch driver against an Eminence Alpha 15A and both had more bass in my OB then the Eminence.
The high efficiency will be helpful. Go for it!
 
Should I try and crossover the woofer and horn in a 2 way, say around 3000hz?
Or a 3 way?

Either way do you suppose the 3rd woofer with a dedicated plate amp could help the bottom end as well?

Thanks
Martin
 
Wow, good question.
The answer need to be: it depends.
the philosophy with OB goes in many direction. So,e people run single driver but I have never heard a full ranger that really made it from the basement to the attic. I grew up up with a four way speaker I built end of the 80ies and I just love the idea. My OB are also 4 way, or better 3.5 way.
Since your speaker set was seemed to be working in a trio I would go for the original config.
I never got to run a larger speaker above 1kHz, since something has to give in regard to quality. A large heavy speaker cone is good for bass, if they make it to light weight the bass lacks but it gets higher. What were the original crossover points of this set?

In my set up both 15 inch drive rare starting at 0. One goes up to 300Hz, the other runs up to 800Hz. The mid range runs to 5000Hz, the horn takes the rest.
With yours I would try somewhere 1kHz and 4 or 5 kHz.
 
Darg
Thanks for the input.
Unfortunately, I don't have the original xovers or specs.
With yours I would try somewhere 1kHz and 4 or 5 kHz.
Click to expand...
That's not far off what I was thinking, leaning closer to 4000Hz.

Martin
 
I've been trying to find someone locally to build a very similar setup to pure audios design for my Hawthorne Trios as I thought they looked pretty simple. I was obviously wrong! I've had NO luck. Nobody wants to build them due to the metal brackets. -(
 
BruenoB said:
I've been trying to find someone locally to build a very similar setup to pure audios design for my Hawthorne Trios as I thought they looked pretty simple. I was obviously wrong! I've had NO luck. Nobody wants to build them due to the metal brackets. -(
Click to expand...

Have you talked to a local metal fabricator? They will do most anything if you supply them with plans. Some will even work out the plans with you. I had my local guy build stair railings, [steel], for our house along with some room divider rails between the living and dining room. They were, surprisingly, much less expensive than buying ready made rails and look fantastic.

cubdog
 
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