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Philips Fisheye 22RH520/22RH550 troubleshooting questions

aphex_nsw

New Member
Hello all, I've recently been digging back into a bunch of old vintage solid state stuff that's been on the backburner for a decade. Quite a few treasures here and there in my gear collection but unfortunately ive gotten a bit rusty on my electronics knowledge.

This week's amp is a Philips 22RH520 (I understand 22RH550 is basically same model for reference), weird little low rms amp with stereo matrixing that as I understand it works as class A at low power and AB at higher volume with excellent distortion for the time period. This particular one was an ewaste find and is in pretty good condition overall except for rotten wood cover, pity. Anyway, a few things about approaching this amp's problems are confusing me and it would be great to hear from the experts on here! Fair warning: I have just enough knowledge about how to repair and diagnose these things to get me in trouble and have a lot to learn, apologies in advance for the long post! :)

1. The inputs of this amp have me a little confused, especially in regards to connecting RCA line level sources. They're all 5-DIN inputs, but from reading the service manual (can't find a user manual unfortunately) these all use a bit higher input impedance from what im used to seeing on these amps (100kOhm) and also mention a voltage (100mV for tuner input, and 250mV for tape) and a bit of googling I found a few people saying that the 5-DIN used by these uses a "current" based system instead of a voltage (1-2V) based system... with out much elaboration on how that works. I assume a modern-ish line level source will need attenuation to more closely match the higher input impedance, but do I also have to be concerned about voltages supplied by the source?
If I wanted to use some portable digital source like a phone or DAP, which usually expect low impedance loads, what sort of attenuation circuit will I need to construct to avoid overloading?
I've attached part of the schematic that shows the inputs and their ratings/pinouts.
When dim bulb testing this unit I (perhaps foolishly) fed RCA line level straight into the board piggybacking off the tape DIN terminals after getting DC bias readings that looked safe to test the unit. Sound was very low volume/hollow with massive crosstalk between inputs. With line level going into Tape input, selecting Tuner you could still hear the source at the same volume level if not louder. Phono circuit did not seem to have crosstalk from this. Is this most likely a problem with how im feeding the source in, or should I expect power amp section?
22rh520_schematic_inputs.png

2. This amp is apparently "Tropicalized". I found a few people online talking about this mainly in the context of Philips earlier portable transistor radios and people mentioned a number of things this process could include such as application of insecticides/fungicides, sealing the case from external hazards like humidity or dust kind of like modern IPxx ratings or simply using overspec components to account for heat and bad power sources. I think my unit frighteningly fits in that first category as there's nothing to indicate ingress protection. On my board and other units ive seen disassembled on the net, wire junctions and solder connections have this weird, gross brown sap/gum like material applied over them. A lot of it has flaked/dried or scratched off over the years so in many spots you can see stains where this sealant material once was. The underside of the board also seems to have an old, greasy but still quite dry substance smeared over it. I assume this is some kind of moisture protection or worse some bizarre fungicide or something. I retouched a bad solder joint and got a brief whiff of what I can only describe as a truly evil chemical smell, and the coating made a little sizzling sound as well.
Is this a dangerous material? Am I handling a board essentially coated in agent orange and inhaling little tokes of concentrated dioxin every time I touch my iron?

3. I suspect multiple caps are failing + other aged components. My board has had one sides output transistors replaced by the look of things. These are the only components that look changed. Bias pots are sealed with that sappy stuff or at least appear to be so I dont think the prev owner adjusted bias after the repair. On tape input no load, volume at near minimum ive measured 0.28 and 0.15 on left and right outputs respectively... again Im very ignorant but these don't look too extreme for DC bias but this design is pretty different from the Japanese stuff im normally working on and that 0.28 could be danger territory for this unit for all I know. It does sound distorted. This amp also uses caps on the output, and the channel reading 0.28 has a hum that sounds like mains to me, should those output caps be my first suspect?

4. Final question, I promise! What on earth does the "Contour" switch on this unit do? Is it related to the 4ch matrixing circuit?
edit: after further searching this seems to be what Philips called their loudness circuit.

Thank you so much for anyone who takes the time to reply!
 

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#1 sounds like you have some "tape monitor" switch enabled. It will output the tape input with any of the functions. Check what happens with A1 A2 A3 and B1 B2 B3 switches. Switch A (or I) should mute the tape input in one positionshunting the signal to ground, and lifting that ground and enabling the input in the other position. Switch B (or II) should do the same with the tuner input.

#2 I can't tell. Please try to upload a pict. But probably you are seeing and smelling some kind of rosin on the solder side.

#3 very distorted sound + hum indicates a major fail, It could be just 1 shorted or leaky capacitor, but 100 other different things too. Impossible to diagnose remotely by Internet with just your description. The "0.28" reading you are refering means very little. Please explain the unit of those numbers, and the exact test point where you are measuring that.

#4 , the schematic you uploaded is too small to read it, I can't see the numbers on it to check the switches id and functions.

In any case, I'd start checking the power supply voltages, all the rails detailed at the bottom right of the schematic.
 
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Apologies, heres a link to the manual on hifi engine https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/philips/rh520.shtml
Im having some phone problems at the moment so unfortunately cant take a photo of my own amp but Ill try to get that fixed today.

#1 This amp uses one of those toggleable 3 mode pushbutton selectors with no individual tape monitor switch. I will investigate the tape switch for broken continuity and look for a mute circuit, thanks :)

#2 This site showing teardown shows a lot of that brown sap like stuff https://insidehifi.blogspot.com/2017/03/philips-rh-520-22rh52000z.html

#3 I am aware that something is probably seriously cooked and my first guess would be a failure related to the output transistors on one channel as these were replaced probably without replacement of other parts that caused their failure in the first place. Note that this distortion is on one channel only. When I was feeding my line source into tape, both channels still had low volume and hollowness, but channel with OG output transistors didn't sound like what I'd expect a "dead" channel to sound like, more like the input wasn't matched correctly. Had a similar issue a few years ago with some DIN tape input device and never solved it/ended up selling the unit. 0.28 reading is 0.28mV DC, I was talking about DC bias so apologies for not being clear. Thats measured from the speaker terminals.

#4 link at the top, but if you can't access that I can upload images to somewhere else.

Thank you so much for taking the time to help me
 
Looking at the picts, I'd start making a list of the capacitors and plan a full recap. I'd use just regular radial caps and forget about the axial type. Many of those electrolytics are for sure gone. I've fixed many Philips amps including my own amp and the capacitors are usually bad. You can't trust those electrolytics. Trying to find a fault with all those old capacitors will be difficult.

DC bias must be measured across the emitter resistors. You can measure on one of them. The schematic shows two 1 ohm resistors in parallel at each transistor. So, measure at one of them but consider it a 0.5ohm resistor. I'd expect something between 6 and 10mV on one of those resistors.

What you are measuring at the speaker terminals is the DC leakage of the output decoupling capacitors. It must be measured with some resistance connected to the speaker terminals. Ideally you should have 0V but the capacitors have some leakage. Expect a few mV.

But check the power supply voltages first. They can show you something.
 
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Update: reading the schematic, if you connect a signal through the TAPE OUTPUT (pins 1 and 4 of the DIN connector), instead of pins 3 and 5 (INPUT pins), the signal will go to the amp regardless of the function selector position. So, check you DIN cables. To inject a signal without a DIN connector you should do it at R609 and R610
 
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