• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Pioneer CT-8282 Belt Replacement / Restore

dusttones

Member
I'm just diving into restoring this 8282 I picked up a long time ago. I have the belt and rubber pulley kit from WJOE in hand. Before I tore it down, it did not play/ff/rewind. After digging into the forum, it sounds like I may have a idler clutch to address. But the issue at hand is belt #5. Instructions indicate to remove the idler assembly and replace. I've removed the e-clip, but the assembly will not come out. Any ideas would be appreciated.


2026-07-28_12h57_44.png
 
Register to hide this ad
Took a little more force than I was expecting, but it came out. But, I'll likely be back to troubleshoot further one the belts are in!
 
Clutch rebuilt and installed ... thanks again @zebulon1

All new belts all around.

I do have the play function now. FF and REV does not work with a tape in. When a tape is not present, I do get action on FF/REW. Would this be an adjustment to the FF/REW force that needs to be done? Or possibly a new belt issue? I re-installed the springs in the original location (outer most hole) and as show in the diagram below.

 
The brake may not be released completely. The solenoid on top of the transport brings the brake up off the reels.
Sometimes the spring attached to that brake will not be correctly installed.
I don’t put new rubber on the clutches when the guys send them in. Whatever is on it is what gets sent back.
Oh, Sometimes you have to modify the mount for the solenoid by slotting the mounting holes so it lifts the brake up enough to clear the reels.
 
I’m going to work on a 9191 today. The pinch roller needs replacing.
 
The brake may not be released completely. The solenoid on top of the transport brings the brake up off the reels.
Sometimes the spring attached to that brake will not be correctly installed.
I don’t put new rubber on the clutches when the guys send them in. Whatever is on it is what gets sent back.
Oh, Sometimes you have to modify the mount for the solenoid by slotting the mounting holes so it lifts the brake up enough to clear the reels.
Ok - that gives me a few things to look at. I sent mine with the new rubber on the clutch, so we should be good there.
 
After a weekend of being sick, I was able to spend a little time on this today. I think I've created more issues than I began with. Now that it's assembled, it appears the motor pulley is always engaged/running. FF/REW are still sluggish, but will pick up after a few attempts. I didn't try again with a tape inserted since there was the always on issue.

I did find this post regarding the placement of the housing, but unsure if that arm should sit in spot 1 or 2 (in my pic) or other? I believe I tried both positions without success on either though.

All springs appear to be in place as well. I did clean the counter and lube with some deoxit fader f5. Does anyone see where I took a misstep?

2026-08-17_16h01_51.pngPXL_20260817_195855897.MACRO_FOCUS.jpg
 
It should be in position 2.
When the solenoid energies, it pushes against that pivot rest and lifts the pinch roller/pickup plate.
 
Still riding the struggle bus on this 8282 over here. I did get the placement in the correct position as noted above.

I am finding multiple answers on this, but should the motor pulley that moves the flywheel always be engaged when the unit is powered on? Mine is.

I'm also still having FF/REW issues ... I took a video, not sure if that helps diagnose, but any insight would be greatly appreciated. I did replace receive and install the rubber pulley kit from WJOE as well.

VIDEO1
 
Yes the capstan is always on when the power is on.
That brake spring is not correctly installed. it needs to be located in the slot on top of the brake.
If the other side of the spring located on the other reel is correctly installed it will cause the brake to be on all the time on the supply reel.
 
Got it back together, but REW is still sluggish. After reading THIS POST I move the solenoid finger under the flat part on the motor plate, but issue persists. For clarification, does the solenoid finger rest under the flat part and in the "V" area of the idler assembly (green line/arrow in pic)?

The only other thing I can think is the 2 nylon washers (RBF-007) that sit under the rapid lever assembly (RXA-573) went MIA during the original disassembly.

rawr1.png

rawr2.png
 
The metal clutch plate rests on the metal brake tab. The metal clutch plate should ride on that tab and be loaded against it. The spring on the other end of the clutch linkage keeps that tension. It looks like that spring is not connected.
 
The solenoid on the top near the FF/Rew motor lifts that brake up to clear the reels so the FF/Rew motor can spin through the clutch, the reels in whenever direction is selected. In play, the entire playback and Rec/erase head plate lifts and releases the brake. Look and see how those two connected/related movements work. That will get you where you need to be.
Note in case your wondering:
The clutch is designed to slip once the tape is ended on the reel. That little time before the auto stop shuts down the operation. In play and in a FF/REW situation.
 
The metal clutch plate rests on the metal brake tab. The metal clutch plate should ride on that tab and be loaded against it. The spring on the other end of the clutch linkage keeps that tension. It looks like that spring is not connected.
Ok. I think I follow. If this is the spring in question, it was attached. I moved it over one slot to apply some more tension. Rew still flakes out, maybe I need to go further with that adjustment.

Video of Play/FF/REW

2026-09-02_09h51_30.png
 
Back
Top Bottom