What is the process like of getting the clutch out to be sent out? Stumbled upon a craigslist 9191 for 30 bucks but in need of help. I have already picked up some replacement knobs and replaced one of the pots, but I’d much rather send out the clutch to Mark than deal with it myself. (Especially since I am busy dealing with 2 of the LED indicators that no longer work after I attempted to look at the control assembly to see how hard it would be to replace 1 of the switches that had the plastic end busted off... It would be nice if I had any clue how to strengthen those solder joints without accidentally melting the birds nest of other wires... )
FF/REW fix ctf-8282,9191,1000 RXA-581, NOT DIY
kevinkr
New Member
You will have to dismantle the transport to get at the clutch, I highly recommend you send it to Mark for the upgrade. I've uploaded some pictures of my CT-F1000. The process requires you to pull the transport out (careful about the head cables) and do some dismantling to get at it. I am not familiar with the 9191 transport, but the reel hub drive arrangement is very similar.
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Allan72
Active Member
I have my install instructions for the belts and tires I can PM you tonight after work with pictures. It shows you how to remove the clutch assembly. MTF will want the white nylon assembly along with the lever it is mounted on.
FYI
He went above and beyond to get my clutch fixed.....
Great guy to deal with and more than fair pricing. Obviously doing this because he loves helping the AK people
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EDIT - As of DECEMBER 2020, I'm STILL here and sleeving the clutches by mail !!
This has been moved up to the front, too many people are missing it.:
This is what to send:
The CT-F1000 has a plastic arm versus metal arm shown here. Send the plastic arm (attached!!) as well.
This has been moved up to the front, too many people are missing it.:
This is what to send:
The CT-F1000 has a plastic arm versus metal arm shown here. Send the plastic arm (attached!!) as well.
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Thank You moderators!!!!
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Pretty much the same, except that one came with the walnut case, and the other came with the metal bonnet.
Enjoy,
Rich P
Enjoy,
Rich P
IowaFightFan
Active Member
My CT-F1000 has Fast Forward, but no rewind. It was serviced a few months back. The tech put on the invoice that the Rewind/Fast Forward motor pulley was replaced and the counter belt was replaced. it worked great for months, but over the weekend the rewind stopped working. Everything I’ve read above seems like when the clutch is the problem, you lose rewind and fast forward both, correct?
Not necessarily. Remove the drag of the tape counter and see what happens.
If the motor pulley needed replacing, that is almost always an indication of a cracked clutch.
It grinds itself off because of the extra drag.
Can you pull the clutch and mail it in for work?
See if the motor turns in FF and REW, it could be that the motor isn't being fed properly.
If the motor pulley needed replacing, that is almost always an indication of a cracked clutch.
It grinds itself off because of the extra drag.
Can you pull the clutch and mail it in for work?
See if the motor turns in FF and REW, it could be that the motor isn't being fed properly.
IowaFightFan
Active Member
mark-
is the clutch somewhat easy to access, or is it quite a process to get to it? I purchased belt kits and installed them on a CTF-7272, CT-F750 & CT-F850 from wjoe a year or so ago. The instructions included with the belt kits were life saving. I’d have never been able to do the belts without them.
i was pretty intimidated when I looked inside of the CTF-1000 and CT-F9292 that I have. I decided to let a tech do the 1000, but he didn’t even do the full belt kit like I asked.
what’s your suggestion? Buy a full belt kit and while it’s disassembled, send the clutch to you to repair? Do you do belt installs as well?
I only do clutches, not decks.
Others will need to chime in about removal.
Get a wjoe ff/rew pulley to try first?
I don't have those type instructions.
Others will need to chime in about removal.
Get a wjoe ff/rew pulley to try first?
I don't have those type instructions.
I just installed the clutch that Mark rebuilt in my CT-F9090. After a hiccup on my part the clutch works like a charm. When I was putting the clutch drive motor back on I let the little pin that operates the mechanism slip out so be sure to check that on reassembly. The result of my carelessness was an inoperable clutch. No FF or RR. I contacted Mark and he knew exactly what was wrong and provided some photos. I followed his instructions and now it operates like new.
Yes, get the complete belt kit from wjoe. I did and installed all five. Do it while your in there because it is a tedious job.
if the motor plate is re-mounted with a minor easily overlooked error, the brakes are continuously applied.
it's easy to do. gotta take care of this when mounting the motor plate - ensure correct green dot placement.
solenoid finger (green dot) from ff/rew motor plate pushes up on flat angled part(green line) of brake plate.
lifts plate against spring.
You will see the motor turning,
you will see the top half of the clutch turning
but the brakes will be applied to the supply and take up reels
so the lower, rubber half of the clutch will be immobile
as it is pushed against either reel.
ff/rew motor rubber drives the upper portion of the clutch
The brake solenoid pin is marked with a green dot.
it has to be below the drive surface of the brake arm
and it pushes UP to disengage the brakes.
it's easy to do. gotta take care of this when mounting the motor plate - ensure correct green dot placement.
solenoid finger (green dot) from ff/rew motor plate pushes up on flat angled part(green line) of brake plate.
lifts plate against spring.
You will see the motor turning,
you will see the top half of the clutch turning
but the brakes will be applied to the supply and take up reels
so the lower, rubber half of the clutch will be immobile
as it is pushed against either reel.
ff/rew motor rubber drives the upper portion of the clutch
The brake solenoid pin is marked with a green dot.
it has to be below the drive surface of the brake arm
and it pushes UP to disengage the brakes.
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I had the same issue with CT F9191 and fixed it without machining or filing and shaving plastic. But got the idea from this thread, so thank you, TS! I still sometimes have terrible sound when FF/RWD buttons are pressed but it does work. And yes, rubber is shaved a lot on the motor brass part. Cutting one 2 mm ring from a brass tubing bought from Ace Hardware did the trick. It fits nicely between plastic parts so NO plastic shaving has to be done. But in my case, the crack in the plastic was not so big and occasionally it was holding spring pressure.
what size tubing? i am always on a search for raw material.
outer 15/64
inner 13/64
outer 15/64 = 0.234
inner 13/64 = 0.203
the stuff i get is custom ordered, there is no " part number "
the wall thickness is very important.
the magic number is 0.194 .
inner 13/64 = 0.203
the stuff i get is custom ordered, there is no " part number "
the wall thickness is very important.
the magic number is 0.194 .
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Yeah, I guess that I was just lucky. Actually, Amazon has them but it comes in a package with other diameters so not worth it. Probably, I got this one from Amazon when purchased a bunch of tubings for my other project. In my case, the wall thickness did not matter a lot since I cut a small ring 1.5 mm width with a jeweler's saw which fit just in-between parts. The ring did not cover the whole damaged space but it was enough to hold the plastic on the shaft. I'm still on the second day in the testing so give it some time.