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Pioneer PL-L1000A Thread

Bratwurst7s

In The Frying Pan
Subscriber
It is finally time to start working on my Pioneer PL-L1000A turntable.

This is a unit that I bought in the Spring of 1983 from the Clark AB PX, so this is a S/G US Military Model, 110V/120V/220V/240V (Switchable). It was in continuous use until the mid 2000's, then went in the box for a few years and then spent several years of limited use with my son. It has been back in my hands since last year waiting for time to make it to my workbench.

It made it to the bench yesterday.
DSC03048.JPGDSC03049.JPG

Optically it is still in pretty good condition.
The infamous disintegrating suspension spring boots went south a good 20 years ago, the suspension springs are stretched, the tonearm bearings are sticky and need servicing and the caps are all original.
My son managed to loose the 3 travel/transport screws, the overhang gauge and the extra tonearm counterweight.

So, there is some work to do. It will take a day or 2 to get this thread moving forward but the plan is to pull together as much info as possible here and support that with a lot of photos.

There are several very useful AK threads for this TT, the earlier PL-L1000, and the Phase Linear 8000/8000II, as well as a number of currently active AK members that know these units well. I will be listing some links to those threads and members in the next post. With a little luck some of those fine fellow AK members might show up here and join the fun, they will certainly be welcome.

:beerchug:,
James
 
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Pio1980 is one of the first members that I know of that has deep knowledge of these turntables.
gary7 is also someone that knows a good bit of info, and has posted a lot of useful help about the PL-L1000A.
Celadon also owns one of these fine machines and has contributed a lot of info.
I have always enjoyed any interaction with these fellows and would really enjoy it if they stop by. Hint, hint.

Here are some threads that I have found that I was able to learn a lot from.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl-l1000a-very-low-sound-output.1053553/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl1000a-counterweights-and-alignment-guide.910487/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pl-l1000a-the-next-in-line.1052214/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/setting-pioneer-pl-l1000-feet.1066493/#post-17293338

The first generation PL-L1000 has considerable differences from the "A" model, but there is still useful information to be found in threads about them.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl-l1000-service-cables.1055703/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl-l1000-question.747808/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl-l1000-suppose-to-do-this.937557/

:beerchug:,
James
 
Last edited:
My beer is empty, and it is time to go out front and warm up the system for some music. In the morning I will start getting serious here.

:beerchug:,
James
 
After getting the thing on my bench removing the top cover was relatively easy.

Place the turntable on a box.
Remove the dustcover, headshell, counterweight and platter.
Remove the steel cover on the top cover.
Reach in and unplug the 4 plugs connecting the top cover to the base.
Remove the feet and support posts, the mounting screws can be removed with an 8mm socket.
Slide the tonearm sled to the full left (center) position.
Lift off the top cover.

DSC03058.JPGDSC03059.JPGDSC03060.JPGDSC03063.JPGDSC03065.JPGDSC03067.JPG

:beerchug:,
James
 
When I first moved to Munich I set the voltage selector to 220V, but in reality the line voltage here is 235V so I have now reset to 240V.

In preparation for this project I have collected:
An original service manual, so much nicer than the downloaded version.
4 new silicone rubber suspension spring boots from ebay.
4 reserve used suspension spring towers, also from ebay. These have glued top nuts just like my original ones.
6 used suspension springs, ebay. These look to be in very good condition and not stretched like my originals.
A new tonearm lift drive band.
A new bubble level to replace the original one that my son lost.

:beerchug:,
James
 
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I will be posting photos of each section as I go, but a quick initial survey showed that the rubber boot around the tonearm lift motor is deteriorated and cracking, and the drive band has fallen off. This might be a big reason why my son stopped using the TT. :biggrin:
So this is something that I will have to deal with.

This is the very first time that the unit has been opened up so it was kind of amusing to see that someone has stuck a piece of a cable tie between the lift motor boot and the mounting frame to tighten it in place. That has to be a factory Tech Job.

DSC03080.JPG

:beerchug:,
James
 
Looking into the damping oil for the rear guide rail bearing that is mentioned in the threads that I referenced earlier, it seems that the main attributes are A) 100% silicone oil, B) A viscosity of 4000cts.
So I found some at Amazon and ordered some. Should be here this week.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B089SR2CCT/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 other issues that I will have to deal with.
1) The placement of my hanging platform. While being the only practical place that I can use it places the TT too far away from my pre-amp to connect the RCA plugs. I will have to find and buy a new connection cable with good enough quality to allow a length of 2 meters. This is a must.
2) The power cord is just long enough to reach my power conditioner but a bit longer would be nice and replacing the cord will allow going to a Euro type plug, which would be convenient. So I am looking for a 3m replacement power cord.

:beerchug:,
James
 
Right after I bought this unit I replaced the original HOMC cartridge with an Adcom Crosscoil LOMC cart. I don't begin to remember what happened to the original cart but the Adcom has a lot of hours on it and I am going to plan on buying a new MC cartridge.

Denon, Audio Technica and Ortofon are in the radar but I still need to do a deep look at that. I wouldn't mind having a second headshell, so that is something to look into also. And I will need to find a replacement overhang gauge to replace the one that my son lost.

Impressions and advice concerning a new MC cartridge will be welcome. My initial budget is at around €500.

:beerchug:,
James
 
Wife and got flu and covid shots yesterday, leaving me with a wonderful headache today. So I won't be actually doing anything today.
When I do get busy it will be with the power supply.

The entire power supply including the transformer is located on the underside of the top cover. I will be re-capping and re-soldering the PSU and not much else other than replacing the power cord.

DSC03086.JPGDSC03094.JPG

All of the electrolytic caps in the PSU look to be Nippon Chemicon general purpose types. Someone feel free to correct me if I am wrong there.

C103 = 470µF/25v
C104 = 470µF/50v
C105 = 100µF/10v
C106/107 = 100µF/35v.

:beerchug:,
James
 
Wife and got flu and covid shots yesterday, leaving me with a wonderful headache today. So I won't be actually doing anything today.
When I do get busy it will be with the power supply.

The entire power supply including the transformer is located on the underside of the top cover. I will be re-capping and re-soldering the PSU and not much else other than replacing the power cord.

View attachment 3309587View attachment 3309588

All of the electrolytic caps in the PSU look to be Nippon Chemicon general purpose types. Someone feel free to correct me if I am wrong there.

C103 = 470µF/25v
C104 = 470µF/50v
C105 = 100µF/10v
C106/107 = 100µF/35v.

:beerchug:,
James
Thats correct.
 
I am recapping basically with what I have on hand in my bench stock. But what I have on hand is generally pretty good.

For C503 I found a United ChemiCon KYB 470µF/35v. it tested at 511µF. The old cap tested at 478µF.
All 4 of the other caps got Panasonic FM.
C504 got a 560µF/50v instead of 470µF. Tested at 576µF new and 449µF old.
C505 got a 100µF/25v, tested at 105 for both new and old.
C506/507 got 100µF/50v. The new ones tested at about 105µF. Both of the old caps were starting to bulge on the bottom seal and were leaking but both tested good at 104.5µF/105.5µF.

The new caps are all rated at 105°C and are 8000 hour caps. Should outlive me.

After that all of the other connections were re-soldered.

DSC03123.JPG

:beerchug:,
James
 
The power cord is routed in from the back through a strain relief, over around behind the transformer and then follows the platter dish all the way around to the power supply board.
A good friend brought over a new 3 meter long 2x0.75mm cord for me. It has a white mantle rather than the original black, which in this case is nice since it will blend in better against the white wall. That has now been installed.

DSC03126.JPGDSC03127.JPG
The clamp is there because the rubber glue that I used to hold the filter caps in position is taking it's sweet time to dry.
:beerchug:,
James
 
I recapped and re-soldered the platter motor board today. 11 caps in total. The old caps are all black ChemiCon SM.

C10 = 0.47µF/50v, measured at 0.49µF, replaced with a Wima MKS2 63v.
C11 = 100µF/10v, measured 91.1µF, replaced with Panasonic FM 25v.
C14 = 0.47µF, measured 0.5µF, MKS2.
C15 = 0.47µF, measured 0.46µF, MKS2.
C18/19/20/21/22 = 10µF/35v, measured 11.6µF/11.3µF/11.5µF/11.3µF/11.4µF, replaced with Panasonic FC 50v.
C23 = 33µF/10v, measured 36.7µF, FM 35v.
C28 = 10µF/10v, measured 10.6µF, FC 50v.

DSC03137.JPGDSC03138.JPGDSC03139.JPGDSC03140.JPG


Other than that I have only been cleaning 40 year old dust out of the thing.
Next up will be the controller board.

:beerchug:,
James
 
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