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Pioneer PL-L1000A Thread

Pio1980 is one of the first members that I know of that has deep knowledge of these turntables.
gary7 is also someone that knows a good bit of info, and has posted a lot of useful help about the PL-L1000A.
Celadon also owns one of these fine machines and has contributed a lot of info.
I have always enjoyed any interaction with these fellows and would really enjoy it if they stop by. Hint, hint.

Here are some threads that I have found that I was able to learn a lot from.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl-l1000a-very-low-sound-output.1053553/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl1000a-counterweights-and-alignment-guide.910487/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pl-l1000a-the-next-in-line.1052214/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/setting-pioneer-pl-l1000-feet.1066493/#post-17293338

The first generation PL-L1000 has considerable differences from the "A" model, but there is still useful information to be found in threads about them.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl-l1000-service-cables.1055703/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl-l1000-question.747808/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl-l1000-suppose-to-do-this.937557/

:beerchug:,
James
Thnx for the nod, I'm beginning to lose some of the stuff I learned on them, but would contribute what I am relatively sure. Best to search past on-topic postings for information.
 
Concerning the new interconnect cable that I need, I decided to order something from rothwellaudio, the River cable that they are offering, in 2 meter length with ground wire and premium plugs.
The choice was because of the low stated capacitance and for the small diameter, which I am hoping will fit in my existing strain relief.

So that will be one problem taken care of.

:beerchug:,
James
 
Thnx for the nod, I'm beginning to lose some of the stuff I learned on them, but would contribute what I am relatively sure. Best to search past on-topic postings for information.
Glad that you are here, you usually have some good comments regardless of the subject matter.

:beerchug:,
James
 
I recapped the main control board yesterday. Still have to re-solder the rest of it. Taking my sweet time here.

DSC03151.JPG

Interestingly almost all of the old caps tested high.
C1: 22µF/10v tested at 28.6µF. Replaced with an FM 25v.
C6/C13: 2.2µF/50v. both tested at 2.5µF. Replaced with MKS2 63v film.
C14/C15: 1µF/50v, tested at 1.07µF & 0.98µF. MKS2 63v.
C2: 10µF/16v, tested at 11.4µF.
C7/C8: 10µF/25v, tested at 12µF & 11.8µF. All 3 of the 10µF were replaced with FC 50v.

There is a fellow in Portugal that sells on ebay under the name lumicrro and he makes 3D printed parts for these and other TT's.
I bought a silicone rubber end cap for the rear tonearm sled roller from him today. I remember seeing earlier in the year that he had made a rubber sleeve for the tonearm lift motor and I am kicking myself for not buying it then.

His prices are pretty high but I would rather pay that and have a good fitting part than have to improvise something. So I wrote him and asked if he would print another one for me. That would be a nice easy way of dealing with that issue.

:beerchug:,
James
 
I got a reply from lumicrro a few minutes ago that he has a PED-167 motor cover and he will make it available for me. Cool. I will buy that as soon as it appears and there will be another problem along the path to being solved.

:beerchug:
 
As a side project sometime in the next few weeks I will be starting to build a couple of small record cabinets so that I can start transporting all of my old LP's back over from my son's apartment.
Envisioning something made from solid 18mm pine shelving boards that will be able to double as transport boxes.

I'll be needing to have some music to play on this thing when it is done.

Still have not made any kind of decision concerning a new cartridge.

:beerchug:
 
I recapped the main control board yesterday. Still have to re-solder the rest of it. Taking my sweet time here.

View attachment 3318129

Interestingly almost all of the old caps tested high.
C1: 22µF/10v tested at 28.6µF. Replaced with an FM 25v.
C6/C13: 2.2µF/50v. both tested at 2.5µF. Replaced with MKS2 63v film.
C14/C15: 1µF/50v, tested at 1.07µF & 0.98µF. MKS2 63v.
C2: 10µF/16v, tested at 11.4µF.
C7/C8: 10µF/25v, tested at 12µF & 11.8µF. All 3 of the 10µF were replaced with FC 50v.

There is a fellow in Portugal that sells on ebay under the name lumicrro and he makes 3D printed parts for these and other TT's.
I bought a silicone rubber end cap for the rear tonearm sled roller from him today. I remember seeing earlier in the year that he had made a rubber sleeve for the tonearm lift motor and I am kicking myself for not buying it then.

His prices are pretty high but I would rather pay that and have a good fitting part than have to improvise something. So I wrote him and asked if he would print another one for me. That would be a nice easy way of dealing with that issue.

:beerchug:,
James
Holy pot fest batman...
 
Yep, don't touch 'em!
I have been very careful not to disturb any of the trim pots, including the 2 on the motor drive board.

I am hoping that I get lucky and don't have to make any adjustments. If I do I am seriously considering buying a new digital oscilloscope. I do have a Tektronix 2225 but it has very wonky dirty switches and pots and I really don't have a large interest in opening it up and doing a service on it.

:beerchug:,
James
 
MD used to sell this, now discontinued, album crate. But if you're creative enough... well, you get the point. :biggrin:

View attachment 3318367
I have some rough plans in my head.

50cm wide, 80cm tall, 40cm deep, shelf in the middle. 18mm pine solid wood, glued and screwed and solid enough to serve as a transport container, probably 4 rollers on the bottom for convenience.
I will cut and route a front board that can be attached to close the box for transport, foam padding to keep things snug.

That will be a separate thread.

:beerchug:,
James
 
I have some rough plans in my head.

50cm wide, 80cm tall, 40cm deep, shelf in the middle. 18mm pine solid wood, glued and screwed and solid enough to serve as a transport container, probably 4 rollers on the bottom for convenience.
I will cut and route a front board that can be attached to close the box for transport, foam padding to keep things snug.

That will be a separate thread.

:beerchug:,
James

Absolutely nice. I've got sooooo many projects but I would like to make a couple of them for purposes.
 
So lumicrro came through and offered up an improved version of the rubber lift motor sleeve and I just ordered it. I will post photos when we are that far.
Also, rothwellaudio contacted me and confirmed my order, so that is moving along too.

Other than that I slept poorly last night, had a tremendous headache today, and didn't do a darn thing.

:beerchug:,
James
 
Well :wtf:

Sounds like a hangover...:biggrin:
JK!

Hope ya feel better

:lurk:
Nope, not a hangover, just a headache. :biggrin:

Had some other stuff to take care of this week but today I re-soldered the control board and put it back in place.

DSC03165.JPG

General thoughts on these PCB's after having worked on them:

This is the first piece of Pioneer gear that I have worked on, so I don't know if they used the same solder everywhere, but I don't like it. It doesn't seem to flow well and just, well, darn it I don't like it.
I don't think that you can "touch up" any of these joints. A large portion of them boiled and spit out old flux and if I tried to just add a little solder and reflow the joint many of them went "cold solder".
I had to de-solder, clean and freshly re-solder each and every connection. I would not trust the connection with a reflow.
A few of the pads for the IC's have extremely little surface area to solder the pin to. I had to be really careful to make sure that I got a good connection and used a magnifying glass to check them afterwards.

:beerchug:,
James
 
So that was the easy stuff. Now I have to figure out how to disassemble the mechanical portions without screwing anything up. I am all ears if anyone has any tips about the tonearm sled etc.

The new rubber parts have shipped.

:beerchug:,
James
 
So that was the easy stuff. Now I have to figure out how to disassemble the mechanical portions without screwing anything up. I am all ears if anyone has any tips about the tonearm sled etc.

The new rubber parts have shipped.

:beerchug:,
James

Talk with @jhaan92, he's repaired a few of these tables with assistance from AK members such as pio1980, EdinTX, markthefixer, and one other I can't recall at the moment. I believe he also gave gary7 some help on an issue he had with a PL 8000 table he was working on.
 
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