Pioneer SX-1010 refresh

[Junfan]

My receiver developed some issues in the right channel and was cutting out. Yesterday I popped the cover and checked out the power supply board and saw a pretty burnt board so I get to rebuild this unit. Sweet, I am excited!

Voltage Right Side -0.010v
Current Idle Right Side 20mv
Voltage Left Side -0.038v
Current Idle Left Side 31mv

If I am understanding correctly with the bleed resistor on these large caps I should not have to be concerned about them still having a charge. When I rebuilt my Kenwood I used a 3w resistor as a bleed resistor and never had issues. Should I do trim pots and relay since it does not sound like those have issues?

Am I missing anything from all the threads on this receiver?

Thanks!

Notes to check
black dmm lead to a bare metal chassis ground

probe with (TIP INSULATED) red probe:

awr-054 power supply board:

pin 14 +56v
pin 15 +24v
pin 13 +35v

pin 10 -56v
pin 11 -24v
pin 9 -13v

pin 8 +13v

THEN, these NEXT readings are different, the black lead is removed from ground and goes on one of the two leads of the named resistor, with the red lead going on the OTHER lead of THAT resistor. If your meter doesn't automatically switch to a lower voltage range for small voltages, you will have to - I expect you to read at or under a volt.

Read the voltage across R11 (follow the foil back from pin 14) brown black black gold color code

Read the voltage across R12 (follow the foil back from pin 10) brown black black gold color code

Read the voltage across R20 (follow the foil back from pin 8) orange orange gold gold color code

Read the voltage across R21 (follow the foil back from pin 13) brown black black gold color code

Does this BOM look current?
Relay and Trimmer Pots
Pioneer SX-1010, 939, 838, et.al., Relay Replacement
653-LY2F-DC24 or 653-LY4F-DC24

652-3386H-1-501LF 500ohms 3386H Single Turn 3/8" ? 10% parallel to pcb
SX-1010 idle current adjust

652-3296P-1-202LF 2Kohms 3296P Multi Turn : 12 3/8" Sealed parallel to pcb
SX-1010 offset voltage adjust

Muting Assembly (AWM-039-A)

AWM-039: C1: .47uF 50v CEA: 667-ECQ-V1H474JL .47uF 50v
AWM-039: C2: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v

Equalizer Amp Assembly (AWF-013-0) (Q1 & Q3 and Q2 & Q4 should be gain matched)

AWF-013: C1: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWF-013: C2: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWF-013: C5: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
AWF-013: C6: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
AWF-013: C9: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013: C10: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013: C11: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
AWF-013: C12: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
AWF-013: C19: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013: C20: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013: C21: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v

AWF-013: Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
AWF-013: Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
AWF-013: Q3: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
AWF-013: Q4: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
AWF-013: Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWF-013: Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWF-013: Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWF-013: Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA

Control Amp Assembly (AWG-027) (Checked C49-52, I have 100uF 16v CEA)

AWG-027: C1: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H334JL .33uF 50v
AWG-027: C2: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H334JL .33uF 50v
AWG-027: C7: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027: C8: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027: C13: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027: C14: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027: C15: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027: C16: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027: C23: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027: C24: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027: C25: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027: C26: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027: C29: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027: C30: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027: C31: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027: C32: 4.7uF 50v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H4R7 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027: C39: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027: C40: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027: C41: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027: C42: 10uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1H100L 10uF 50v
AWG-027: C45: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027: C46: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-027: C47: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027: C48: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027: C49: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
AWG-027: C50: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
AWG-027: C51: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v
AWG-027: C52: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v or 667-EEU-FM1E470 47uF 25v

AWG-027: Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
AWG-027: Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
AWG-027: Q3: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWG-027: Q4: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWG-027: Q5: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWG-027: Q6: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWG-027: Q7: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWG-027: Q8: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA

Power Amp Assembly (AWH-032-0) (Checked I do have the 1.5uF cap.)

(Q1 and Q2 should be gain matched) How can I accomplish this?

AWH-032: C1: .68uF 25v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H684JL .68uF 50v
AWH-032: C2: 1.5uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H1R5MDD1TA 1.5uF 50v
AWH-032: C4: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
AWH-032: C8: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v

AWH-032: Q1: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
AWH-032: Q2: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
AWH-032: Q3: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
AWH-032: Q5: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU
AWH-032: Q6: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU

Protection Assembly (AWM-062-0)

AWM-062: C1: .22uF 10v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 .22uF 50v
AWM-062: C2: .22uF 10v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 .22uF 50v
AWM-062: C3: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062: C4: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062: C5: 4.7uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWM-062: C6: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v

AWM-062: Q1: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWM-062: Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA
AWM-062: Q6: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
AWM-062: Q7: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS
1N4004 flyback diode is added between pins 9 (anode +) and 10 (cathode -)

Power Supply Assembly (AWR-054-0) (Resistors are optional but recommended, stand them up off the board about a half inch when mounting the new ones)

AWR-054: C8: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-054: C9: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-054: C10: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
AWR-054: C11: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A101MHD 100uF 100v
AWR-054: C12: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-054: C13: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-054: C14: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
AWR-054: C18: 1000uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H102MHD 1000uF 50v
AWR-054: C19: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
AWR-054: C20: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v
AWR-054: C21: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v

AWR-054: R11: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
AWR-054: R12: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
AWR-054: R20: 3.3 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F 3.32 Ohm 1/2 watt
AWR-054: R21: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt

AWR-054: Q1: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
AWR-054: Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YBU
AWR-054: Q3: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YBU
AWR-054: Q4: 2SB507: 863-MJE15033G
AWR-054: Q5: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
AWR-054: Q6: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
AWR-054: Q7: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
AWR-054: Q8: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS

Main filter caps, 18000uF 63v, 50mm dia x 90mm high:

(Digi-Key) 565-3331-ND 18000uF 75v screw terminal 50.80mm dia x 79.38mm high

Across Main filter caps
5989-100V2.2-F 2.2uf cornell dublier 100v met poly $1.19 ea or 5989-250V2.2-F 2.2uf cornell dublier 250v met poly $1.75 ea

Random picture for fun

 

[tsd71]

That's pretty baked, be careful handling the board they are very brittle.Change the trimmers on the amps too.Be careful when you flip the power supply, those rectifiers on the fused power board behind the power supply are charged, put down a towel over them before working on the PS.Been there fried that.

 

[Junfan]

Thank you for the tip. I covered the rectifier board. I am going to get the part numbers in a spreadsheet so I can collapse all the part numbers and place an order.

I am also considering firing up my desoldering station and cleaning all the components off the power board. It makes quick work of this and should put little stress on the board. I am really interested to see which parts pass and fail so I will log the parts as I pull them and test each one. You think this is a bad idea?

 

[larryderouin]

Actually it's a good idea. If all the voltages on the P.S. board pins are within 5% max of nominal from the schematic, then just recap and put in the up-rated transistors and resistors. Resistors should have a V bend in the leads so they sit about 1/4" off the board. That will reduce any further burning of the board and improve airflow around them due to almost criminal placement of the P.S. Board. Bag each boards parts and test them later if the board has no problems. If there is a problem test as you remove..

The cutting out in one channel is most likely in the AMP Board, with the #1 suspect being the 2sc1451 Transistors. #2 suspects are 2sa725 and 2sa726 transistors. These are#1,#2,#3 on the TOP TEN WANTED LIST of crappy transistors installed in PIONEER GEAR. #4 is the 2sc458. PRE-EMPTIVE replacement is the best route for these. No testing, no hemming and hawing.......FILE 13.

 

[Junfan]

Thanks Larry I will get on this. I have my spreadsheet ready and need to figure out any substitutes and will upload my bom before I place an order.

I will get pots for the amp boards as recommended and I checked all those transistor numbers and they are on my list unless I missed something.

Have a great evening and good luck with your brackets.

 

[Junfan]

I have everything from the BOM in a cart except the four following items. I have also tried to find a replacement. Do these look right?

Thanks!

AWR-054: R11: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt

660-MF1/2DCT52R10R0F
​

AWM-062: C1: .22uF 10v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 .22uF 50v

539-168224J50C-F​

AWM-039: C1: .47uF 50v CEA: 667-ECQ-V1H474JL .47uF 50v

598-DSF050J473​

AWH-032: C1: .68uF 25v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H684JL .68uF 50v

Have not found a replacement yet. Got any recommendations?​

 

[larryderouin]

AWH-032: C1: Use 505-MKS2.68/50/10 WIMA MKS series (replace on both boards)

AWM-039: C1: Use 505-MKS2.47/50/10T

AWM-062: C1 Use 505-MKS20.22/63/5 (63v smallest voltage unless you use a electrolytic) 647-UKL1HR22KDDANA is a 50V lytic. This is what I use in my pioneers for this cap. It works fine. Unless someone has a # for a lower voltage cap here.

AWR-054: R11: 660-MF1/4CCT52R10R0F 1/4w. Replace R11 & R12.

 

[Junfan]

Thanks Larry I fixed my BOM and will place my order later this afternoon.

I have the power supply board apart. I have documented and tested each piece. Here are the failures.

C11 132uf, C10 137uf, C21 0.0uf, C14 0.0uf, R11 3.1 Ohm and R21 9.9 Ohm. I thought maybe I reversed those when I took them out so I rechecked the banding and measured again . They were both out of spec badly. I figured I may as well add a few pics.

 

[Junfan]

The mouser order came in so I will get started on this over the weekend. Couple quick questions, I need to get the solder on screw connectors but probably need to find the other thread to figure out what they are. Secondly, should I be seeing David @ dwojo for lights. I have used him for several other projects and he normally has what I need. I make out from the SM that these are pilot lamps and the sizes are 8v .3a for the meter, 8v .3a for the dial scale, 6v 30ma for the stereo ind and pilot lamp 8v, 50ma for position.

 

[Junfan]

I think I ran into a problem this AM and want to confirm before I do anything more. It appears the 2sc869 Q2 and Q3 on the power supply board a label incorrectly for ECB and it is really BCE from my testing. This means I need to spin these 180 from my pictures and diagram to match up correctly if I read everything correctly.

Here are the connectors I have been trying to find. I like this setup.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?attachments/sx-1010-new-main-cap-terminals-jpg.15871/

Thanks and have a great Friday!

 

[zebulon1]

Many have made the mistake and installed the 2383's matching the original 869's. Follow the symbols on the board and remember the 2383's are ECB.
ACE Hardware has a wonderful fastener section with quality ring terminals. I like the fact I can see and compare sizes.

 

[Junfan]

Thanks Zeb, thought I was missing something. Time to proceed with getting my PS board back together. Thanks for the tip on ACE Hardware, sounds like a fun Saturday morning trip.

 

[Junfan]

The power supply is done. I do not have continuity on Q1, Q4 or Q7 and the heat sink.I used the berquist silpads because I have used them before and liked them. I also tested continuity for each trace and everything tested perfect. Here are a few pictures. Think I am going to do board AWG-027-0 next.

 

[zebulon1]

Nice job.
I use the silpads and I put a real light coat of paste on both sides using a safety razor as a spatula. I can't help myself.

 

[Junfan]

Thanks for the tip on the light paste. Great idea and will start doing that as well. I did the other board on the bottom, used a full can of deoxit red on the switches and pots. I hit it a couple days later with gold and all things are silky smooth. I do not want to feel any grinding and watch for the deoxit to run clear. I hope she turns out nice. I still have not had a chance to visit ACE hardware but should have some time this weekend.

Time to put the bottom back together and do the top boards.

 

[Junfan]

I found one problem and corrected it. I knew something was bugging me and figured it out the next time I had a chance to look at it again.

I have now buttoned up the bottom end and have done one top board and marked a couple others. Here are some pictures. If you would like more information or pictures reply. I am just randomly picking some stuff to share.

 

[Rico126]

http://www.dgwojo.com/

This is the correct place for lights, and I would be sure he has them.

 

[goat67]

Hello Junfan
Could you post your BOM I am about to start on an SX-1010 and it would save me a bunch of time. Yous look like it is coming along nicley

 

[Junfan]

I sure can. I will pull it off mouser where I saved it as a project. I could try to convert it to a bom and then share it but would need to figure that out real quick.

Thanks BTW.

 

[goat67]

If you want you could just email me the project or something I think....PM coming with my email