jdsalinger
Super Member
For the best tube glow, mount the power tube and rectifier sockets with the screws at 12:00 & 6:00 (as viewed from the front of the amp). I think the preamp tube is the same. but it is rather small, so this may not matter too much. Actually, you might find (like I did) that it's really not that big of a deal. I mounted mine opposite of the above because I thought that screws at 3 & 9 o'clock would look better and I thought that it gave a little better layout for wiring when I was creating my wiring diagram in ACAD.
Another thing you want to think about (which I DIDN'T) is, do you want the "Edcor" logo facing out on your OPT? Again, I designed my layout for best wiring symmetry and when I finished, I realized that only my PT had the bell facing outward, but it was hidden by the 10H choke. So, couldn't see the "edcor" logo on any of the xfmrs. But I actually got used to that and kind of liked it. Your call.
2 caps on top are multi-section electrolytic filter caps. ( I used JJ and then F&T.....only changed out cause I thought I had damaged the JJs....both are fine...choose your color....the F&T blue matches Edcor blue pretty well, but black is cool too). I'd say you are fine using all electrolytic in the PS. I think the two 10uF right before the driver tube are typically film because they are a little cheaper than lytics (they are the black Solens at the bottom of the pic below.
The two yellow caps are the coupling caps. They are Kimber, which I changed out for Jantzen superior. I'd recommend the Jantzen.
Also, the safety cap (yellow) by the F&T filter caps isn't actually an X2 type safety cap. It also was replaced by the proper cap after this photo was taken.
the bottom isn't perfectly symmetrical, but I highly recommend taking the time to do neat and tidy wiring. use 90 deg bends when possible. It looks much better and will reduce any possible hum.
Avoid crossing wires if you can.
Another thing that I wasn't too pleased with is how cramped the amp section was on mine. I should have spread the power tubes a little farther apart, but I thought it hurt the appearance top-side.
It is a pain to reach the solder lugs on the sockets the way I laid it out.
There are cathode bias resistors on the bottom side ( or "top" actually) of that tag board to save space.
You can also save a bit of time if you don't need a volume pot ( I ended up removing mine cause I built a preamp soon after the power amp).
Also, I would leave out the UL/Triode switch and decide whether you need the power of UL mode, or would rather just have triode mode. I used Triode mode the most. I think, to me, it sounded a little sweeter. But if you are a rocker, then definitely do UL mode. I just found that I didn't switch back and forth between modes.
More pics here on my BT thread. I miss it. I'll probably build another one later this year. EL84/6BQ5 amps just don't have the same magic.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....nded-integrated-tube-amp.685486/#post-9563822
Another thing you want to think about (which I DIDN'T) is, do you want the "Edcor" logo facing out on your OPT? Again, I designed my layout for best wiring symmetry and when I finished, I realized that only my PT had the bell facing outward, but it was hidden by the 10H choke. So, couldn't see the "edcor" logo on any of the xfmrs. But I actually got used to that and kind of liked it. Your call.
2 caps on top are multi-section electrolytic filter caps. ( I used JJ and then F&T.....only changed out cause I thought I had damaged the JJs....both are fine...choose your color....the F&T blue matches Edcor blue pretty well, but black is cool too). I'd say you are fine using all electrolytic in the PS. I think the two 10uF right before the driver tube are typically film because they are a little cheaper than lytics (they are the black Solens at the bottom of the pic below.
The two yellow caps are the coupling caps. They are Kimber, which I changed out for Jantzen superior. I'd recommend the Jantzen.
Also, the safety cap (yellow) by the F&T filter caps isn't actually an X2 type safety cap. It also was replaced by the proper cap after this photo was taken.
the bottom isn't perfectly symmetrical, but I highly recommend taking the time to do neat and tidy wiring. use 90 deg bends when possible. It looks much better and will reduce any possible hum.
Avoid crossing wires if you can.
Another thing that I wasn't too pleased with is how cramped the amp section was on mine. I should have spread the power tubes a little farther apart, but I thought it hurt the appearance top-side.
It is a pain to reach the solder lugs on the sockets the way I laid it out.
There are cathode bias resistors on the bottom side ( or "top" actually) of that tag board to save space.
You can also save a bit of time if you don't need a volume pot ( I ended up removing mine cause I built a preamp soon after the power amp).
Also, I would leave out the UL/Triode switch and decide whether you need the power of UL mode, or would rather just have triode mode. I used Triode mode the most. I think, to me, it sounded a little sweeter. But if you are a rocker, then definitely do UL mode. I just found that I didn't switch back and forth between modes.
More pics here on my BT thread. I miss it. I'll probably build another one later this year. EL84/6BQ5 amps just don't have the same magic.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....nded-integrated-tube-amp.685486/#post-9563822
. Again, thanks or the tip. I'll see if I can't contact Mr. McNally.
