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POWER AMPS, the coolest, craziest power amps ever

Krell KSA 80 Class A!
Regards,
Jim
 

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I liked the old M1 however, my buddy has an ESS 500 that is sweet...lol
The M1 isn't exactly crazy, but it sure is a bit different and to my eyes rather uniquely attractive. I love how it sounds as well and of course that is the main point, right?
 
Not too obscure, fairly powerful but not exceptionally so, but it's about as close to vintage as I have and I think the no-nonsense industrial look is cool.

ML No. 23. 200wpc, 100lbs brick $hithouse build.

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I'd have to give a nod to the Phase Linear 400 and 700 amps of the late 70s and the big SAE amps of the late 70s to mid 80s. Nothing but pure unadulterated SS power plus. Several other great amps from that time period for sure but these always stood out to me as being the powerhouses back then, along with being somewhat affordable too.....................

All great choices and of course I'm partial to the big SAE 2400/2600's.

The Mighty 500

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Left to right
Bose 1801, Sansui BA-3000, Heathkit AA-1640.

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SPEC 2

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Your 500 sure is purdy!


I just picked up another SAE 2600 still in minty condition. :banana:

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Admittedly I'm a Crown addict going back some 40-years now but I never even saw one of these until I became the owner of one a few months ago:

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I got my inspiration from a wonderful gentleman who has since passed away who took this shot of his collection:

 
I'd have to give a nod to the Phase Linear 400 and 700 amps of the late 70s and the big SAE amps of the late 70s to mid 80s. Nothing but pure unadulterated SS power plus. Several other great amps from that time period for sure but these always stood out to me as being the powerhouses back then, along with being somewhat affordable too.....................

Have to agree, I have two of them, one Quasi Comlimentary and the other is Fully Complimentary, both completely upgraded with White Oak components and DC protect boards. No longer flame linears and put out OVER 500w now. Flat response across the hearable spectrum, almost zero distortion and a noisefloor $15k+ amps would be envious of

EDIT: Yep, it's cranking in that image and has plenty of pedal to go. My entire neighborhood enjoys it with me LOL

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So the meters are way out on calibration?

Not at all, the WOPL's have enormous amounts of headroom. The peaks you see in that image are transients when the amp is running at 50% power. I have had the needles laying flat and the amp will still keep cranking. I am not even sure you can recalibrate the meters to allow for the extra 60-90wpc a side that the amps have now. If there is a way to do so, I would love to learn more. The original amps were rated at about 200wpc, the Quasi puts out 258 per side now and the Full Comp version pushes almost 290 a side. The meters are accurate to the original spec amp. The additional power goes beyond the meters factory set limits. The new meter boards are faster reacting also
 
I found this link on meter recalibration but it's all Greek to me. Perhaps someone can use this if someone is in the same boat as me with more power available then what the meters can show in stock configuration

Just found out the PL 400 meters are claibrated to 50w per channel at 8ohms at 0db and 100wpc at 4 ohms at 0db so the power exceeds the meter calibration by far

http://meterbuilder.com/mb1/interfacing-analog-meters.html
 
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I found this link on meter recalibration but it's all Greek to me. Perhaps someone can use this if someone is in the same boat as me with more power available then what the meters can show in stock configuration

Just found out the PL 400 meters are claibrated to 50w per channel at 8ohms at 0db and 100wpc at 4 ohms at 0db so the power exceeds the meter calibration by far

Briefly looked at a schematic but it wasn't immediately clear where the meter circuit taps in. However, looked pretty simple inasmuch as a resistor and diode in series to the meter. I'd expect changing the value of the resistor would change the meter calibration but don't know how much.

If I was going to do it I'd probably put in a pot wired like a rheostat to dial in 0dB representing the power you want it to indicate (measure output voltage, calculate against desired resistance, e.g. 8 ohms if that's your primary use).
 
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