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Problems With Sansui G9000 - Cooked?

Think its been a slow weekend but maybe can still assist.

Haven't opened the manual but setting the bias uses two test points would be a pair of bare metal posts sticking out of a plastic base + & -. There will be two of these for left and right. Follow directions for doing this including the time constraints to perform. e.g. right after a cold power up or after so many minutes of warm up etc. No. inputs should be connected and set to aux. all switches in off position tuning knobs set to neutral.

Again; this is for bias. Offset, if applies, is something else.
 
Yeah, something's still wrong here, new power transistors in, all TO-220's checked out ok, burn resistors replaced.. DBT showed bright at first then dimmed out. removed DBT and flicked it on for a second (literally a second or less) and noticed R04 on 2808 have an internal glow. I was already in the action of shutting down when i noticed the large ceramic resistor emitting a glow. Went back to the DBT. Nobody's home now, no protection light no power at all.
 
IF the large ceramic resistor is starting to glow, that might be the soft start resistor. If it doesnt power on at all now, either fuses blew or that resistor is open now. There is a relay that closes after about 2 seconds to "bypass" the soft start resistor so all the current will flow through the relay and the resistor isn't even used anymore after the first 2 seconds of power on. Is it the large white block about 2" long and 1/2" by 1/2"? I had this problem on mine and the relay was bad. Replaced the relay and it starts up like a champ now.
 
I just checked the service manual and the soft start resistor is the one you mentioned, R04 on F-2808. You will need a new one. If that is open the receiver will be totally dead. You will need a 3.9 Ohm 15W ceramic. I used 25W 3.9 ohm which is okay too. once that is fixed You will need to check if 24V is getting to the relay. It will be around 18V on DBT but the relay will still close. If it is present, you will need to replace the relay. If it isn't present, more advanced troubleshooting on the Protection/Power supply bd will be necessary.
This one, access from the underside next to the protection board. You will need to re-use the clear cover off the old relay and the guts from the new one. Or you can make standoffs so it fits properly but I like my way. I cannot seem to find the info in my old notes but I think I used 653-LY2-0-DC24 from Mouser to replace (part of) that relay.

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princever: Thank you for your input! I mean seriously, if I ever end up in Maryland for work, ill be sure to send a message your way, I owe you a brew. Above and beyond with alternate part numbers, pictures and all. I must say, you've brought me back from a very frustrated state and after work tomorrow, im diving head first back in to this thing. Thanks a million! Also, now that im looking at the print, I see that R04 is the bridge between, what appears to be, the voltage selector and the rest of the unit, as well as RL701, witch can't energize without power through 2807 as well as 2809. Sometimes my frustration gets the best of me and I need a little nudge to see what's in front of me. thanks for that.
 
Glad I could be of help Steve. I hope you can get this thing working. I love mine and I use it every day.
 
So, having some trouble locating a resistor with the same footprint.. The closest I can find is one with axial leads. The one that's on the board has flat tabs on either side and each tab is shaped to 2 large flat pins, essentially having 2 terminating points for each side of the resistor. Kinda worried about heat dissipation, I'm assuming that's why the leads have so much meat to them. just want to make sure an axial lead wont pinpoint the heat too much and disturb the solder. opinions? I've checked newark, allied, mouser and digikey.. no luck with a google search either.
 
Just get the one with the axial leads and mount it nicely. The heat is dissipated by the ceramic of the resistor, not the leads.
 
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