Project: Sansui G9000

[Super Noob]

MIJ.... I am Pioneer guy trying not be become a Sansui guy.
@MIJ_Pioneer

It is a beast for sure... very nice indeed.
Krisp / Clean / Tight.
Been listen to all day.

Have a friend's SX750 up next... love that little rig = will be third build on that set.

You know I love the 1250 and 717.... I did manage to pick this up locally at a really / really / really good price (like I need another rig) = tweaked the setting, and put to the side. It will be done this in the next 3-4 months. Know your feelings on this rig.

 

[KingBubba]

I am awed at your work and how well you documented everything. I have a G-8000 that was reworked and recapped by CDFixer before he died. It is my bedroom system with my Sansui Model Eight Deluxe, which was also rehabbed by CDFixer. The shipping on these cost more than the purchase price and almost more than the rehab, as he lived in Southern California. I have a Model Eight and a G-7500 that are badly in need of some knowledgeable help. I am not in any rush, but I wondered if you would be available to do a couple of needed rehabs in the future? I could drive these down to you. Let me know at your leisure. Mods, if my request is out of place, please remove my thread. Thanks to all.

 

[Super Noob]

Bubba just pm... we are both subscribers.

 

[kevzep]

Well that was an investment to share.... hope it helps someone. I have .xls file for those who need a starting point. Remember, I do my best to document what I am doing - but these lists are not fully vetted. I have parts on-hand, so it is not the end of the world if I am missing something (normally). If you find errors, just let me know I and will fix my post. Here are the final shots.

Parts:

Final Pics:

I'm always very impressed with your restorations, very thorough and tidy work.
Taking on the Ovals is no easy task, I have done two sets, I cannot say its my favourite thing!!

Did you note what I said about those TO126 transistors on the driver boards?
You'd twisted the legs on those to make them have a centre BASE, this is not necessary as the boards have 4 through holes so you can mount a centre BASE or centre COLLECTOR transistor.

The lighting scheme is too "cold" for me, but I can see how some guys might like it.....I'm an old hippy and like warm lighting....Each to their own, no harm in having it the way you like it, life is too short!!

 

[Super Noob]

Kev:
@kevzep

Yes... you are absolutely correct - I did miss that the boards had pad extensions (traces for a combinations of emitter / collector / base transistor legs)

So to everyone doing a 9000/901... just use pads that allow for ECB for the transistors that I recommended.

Thanks Kev.

 

[tillmbil]

Nice job again Bob. I am amazed how you get all the parts together so quickly. That looked like a very tuff rebuild.

 

[Reidy12]

I get the feeling the write-up took longer than the re-cap.....epic on both counts.
All my Sansui is rack mount in the #17 era but if I ever stepped out it would be the G-9000. Really appreciate the methodical methodology and details, maybe one day it will be my guide.... cheers enjoy that classic beast

 

[Super Noob]

All my Sansui is rack mount in the #17 era

I really like the AU-717 as well.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/project-sansui-au-717-restore-rebuild.893233/

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/project-sansui-au-717-bks.896463/

 

[Willy6]

F-2809 Power & Protector Board:

Capacitors:
C03 470 uF 63v Electro (CE) Nich UPW 470 uF 63v UPW1J471MHD
C04 470 uF 63v Electro (CE) Nich UPW 470 uF 63v UPW1J471MHD
C05 47 uF 80v Electro (CE) Nich UPW 47 uF 100v UPW2A470MPD6
C06 47 uF 80v Electro (CE) Nich UPW 47 uF 100v UPW2A470MPD6
C09 33 uF 10v Electro (CE) Nich UPW 33 uF 16v UPW1C330MDD
C10 1 uF 50v Electro (LL) KEMIT 1 uF R82DC4100DQ60J
C11 1 uF 50v Electro (LL) KEMIT 1 uF R82DC4100DQ60J
C12 220 uF 35V Electro (CE) Nich UPW 220 uF 50v UPW1H221MPD1TD
C13 220 uF 35V Electro (CE) Nich UPW 220 uF 50v UPW1H221MPD1TD
C16 47 uF 50v Electro Nich UPW 47 uF 63v UPW1J470MPD
C17 100 uF 80v Electro Nich UPW 100 uF 100v UPW2A101MHD
C18 100 uF 80v Electro Nich UPW 100 uF 100v UPW2A101MHD
C19 100 uF 80v Electro Nich UPW 100 uF 100v UPW2A101MHD
C20 100 uF 80v Electro Nich UPW 100 uF 100v UPW2A101MHD
C21 10 uF 50v Electro BP Nich MUSE 10 uF 50v UES1H100MPM
C22 10 uF 50v Electro BP Nich MUSE 10 uF 50v UES1H100MPM
C27 1 uF 50v Electro (LL) KEMIT 1 uF 63v R82DC4100DQ60J
C28 1 uF 50v Electro (LL) KEMIT 1 uF 63v R82DC4100DQ60J
C29 47 uF 50v Electro Nich UPW 47 uF 63v UPW1J470MPD
C33 33 uF 10v Electro (CE) Nich UPW 33 uF 16v UPW1C330MDD
C34 470 uf 10v Electro (CE) Nich UPW 470 uF 16v UPW1C471MPD
C35 100 uF 6.3v Electro BP Nich MUSE 100 uF 16v UES1C101MPM
C36 100 uF 6.3v Electro BP Nich MUSE 100 uF 16v UES1C101MPM
C38 3.3 uF 63v WIMA WIMA 3.3 uF 63v MKS2C043301K00JO00
C39 3.3 uF 63v WIMA WIMA 3.3 uF 63v MKS2C043301K00JO00

Relays:
MY4-02 DC24 (1)
LY2-0-DC24 (2)
LY2-DC24 (1)

Transistors:
TR01 2SA850 KSA1220AYS
TR02 2SC1735 KSC2690AYS
TR03 2SC945 retain
TR04 2SA733 retain
TR05 S2SD314 MJE15032G
TR06 2SB508 MJE15033G
TR07 2SC945 retain
TR08 2SA733 retain
TR09 2SD438 (E) KSC2690AYS
TR10 2SB560 KSA1220AYS
TR19 2SD438 KSC2690AYS

Diodes & Zeners:
D1 & D2 10D1 100V, 1A MUR220RLG 2A, 200V
D3 & D4 V1212 Dual 1N4148s
D5, D6, D6, D8 1N60-P Gremanium Retain
D13-D14 10D1 100V, 1A MUR220RLG 2A, 200V
D15-D18 1S2473 1N4148
D19-D20 10D1 100V, 1A RL202-TP 2A, 100V
D21-D25 1S2473 1N4148
D26 V1212 Dual 1N418s Dual 1N4148s
D27-D31 1S2473 1N4148
D32 10D1 100V, 1A MUR220RLG 2A, 200V
ZD01 / ZD03 RD6.2E 6.2V, .5 Watt Zener 1N5264B 6.2V, .5 W Zener
ZD02 / ZD04 EQBD01-12 12V. 1 Watt Zener 1N4742ATR 12V, .5 W Zener

Fashion a loop of wire to hold board up (looped to balance shaft).

I epoxy the mounting wings / flanges onto relay.. no i didn't try to sleeve the new relay in old case = you can.

Question
The color code bands on R05 and R06 are faded out on mine and the schematic says they are 330 ohm and 270 ohm is that correct?The color code on R06 of yours looks like either 280 ohm or 290 ohm I can't tell if the second stripe is Grey or white?

 

[Super Noob]

Sorry but the unit is buttoned up and I didn’t replace those large resistors.

 

[rcs16]

I'm an old hippy and like warm lighting.

Me too I hate those those new LED or HID headlights, with high Colour temps, so much so, I try not to or avoid driving at night. God damn it, all they need to do is change the phosphor formula a bit, probably cost them a few cents more, cheap skates.
One heck of a lot of thermal paste for that heatsink, stupid mechanical design

 

[kevzep]

Question
The color code bands on R05 and R06 are faded out on mine and the schematic says they are 330 ohm and 270 ohm is that correct?The color code on R06 of yours looks like either 280 ohm or 290 ohm I can't tell if the second stripe is Grey or white?

220Ω according to my schematic.
But they aren't critical anyway as they are just dropping voltage.... You could probably fiddle around with the value to get things closer to spec if you wanted....

 

[Golanr]

Well that was an investment to share.... hope it helps someone. I have .xls file for those who need a starting point. Remember, I do my best to document what I am doing - but these lists are not fully vetted. I have parts on-hand, so it is not the end of the world if I am missing something (normally). If you find errors, just let me know I and will fix my post. Here are the final shots.

Final Pics:

@Super Noob What was your method for cleaning the knobs?

 

[Super Noob]

Warm water and dish soap.

 

[G-901]

Well that was an investment to share.... hope it helps someone. I have .xls file for those who need a starting point. Remember, I do my best to document what I am doing - but these lists are not fully vetted. I have parts on-hand, so it is not the end of the world if I am missing something (normally). If you find errors, just let me know I and will fix my post. Here are the final shots.

Parts:

Final Pics:

Any way I could have the xls thanks!! Great job.

 

[AlphaSound]

Hello, is it possible to use filters capacitors of 12,000uf/80v with length of 63mm instead of 8,200uf/80v with 45mm length? Is there enough place to put 63mm? The diameter is the same. Thank you.

Main Filter Caps
Plenty of people say to retain these... but that is not for me. (look at the readings)
Main Filters Oval Caps 15,000 uF / 80v (rail 74.8v)
Eight (8) Nichicon 8200 uF / 80v LLS1K822MELC (5.9A @ 120 Hz), 3000 HR)

*note: drift / then hand drill a hole in existing aluminum terminal, then use bolted connection. (you cannot solder copper to aluminum)

Here is precursor to what you are about to see.... done by others before (some disassembly required).

 

[Hyperion]

Hello, is it possible to use filters capacitors of 12,000uf/80v with length of 63mm instead of 8,200uf/80v with 45mm length? Is there enough place to put 63mm? The diameter is the same. Thank you.

Just measure the depth of the oval cans - allow a little space (10mm minimum) for the connections from the new filter lugs to the terminal plate.

Please don't quote posts without any of your own text - and please don't post the same thing over and over again!

Good luck.

 

[AlphaSound]

The work that you made and all the steps shown is amazing!!! It's really awesome!

I wanted to asked you about a mistake that I made. I ordered a recap kit from ebay and there was 8 capacitors of Chemi-con 12,000uf/63v. I gave this receiver to someone to recap it and he also didn't notice about the filters capacitors value that should be 80v! The thing is that the receiver is already done and closed. I noticed that after some time when the receiver worked ok. I'm really afraid about this value and don't want to expose it to risk. I want to replace those capacitors to new ones with good value. Thanks!