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RCA MI-112182 Monoblock Tube Amps

AlexHempel

AK Subscriber
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Been wanting a pair of RCA PA/theater monoblocks for a while, but never pulled the trigger -- until now. Bought a pair of these for probably more than they're worth. The seller states they're from the collection of an ex-RCA engineer, which I'd normally be skeptical of, but could be true given their obscurity.

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As some of you know, RCA made a number of high-power commercial monoblock amplifiers during the 1940s-1960s. It seems the most common was the MI-4288 which, based on the specs and catalogs I've seen, was aimed more at the PA market. It uses parallel push-pull 6L6s to reach the desired power level. The MI-9377A is another p-p-p 6L6 amp, but includes regulated screens. These also pop up frequently, but tend to fetch a good premium over the MI-4288, which can be had pretty cheaply. Some of RCA's big amps relied on more exotic (for audio, at least) tubes. Examples include the massive MI-12188, with a quad of 807s, and the MI-12182A, which uses a pair of 6146 transmitting tubes. MI-12182As also tend to be pretty cheap and are listed fairly often.

When I first saw these MI-112182s listed on the auction site, I assumed the seller added an extra 1 by mistake. However, upon closer inspection, I noticed the amps actually have MI-112182 silkscreened onto the chassis. At first glance, they look like MI-12182s except with a different (circular potted UTC) OPT and with 6550s instead of 6146s. Obviously this would indicate they were made, or converted, after '64. I cannot find any mentions of the MI-112182 on the internet or in any digitized RCA catalogs. The closest is a thread on the antique radio forum which mentions that MI-12182s were field converted to run 6550s due to issues with the 6146s. Apparently the OC3s were also replaced with OD3s.

But I have my doubts these were field converted, mostly because "MI-112182" and "6550" are silkscreened. I doubt anyone doing a field modification would bother with that. Perhaps more likely that RCA produced a few of these near the end of the tube era using MI-12182 chassis. All the iron except the OPTs looks identical to the MI-12182, as does the chassis layout. Also, the cutout for the OPT looks like it was made after the chassis was fabricated. Moreover, these even have "OC3" erroneously silkscreened onto them (the tubes included are in fact OD3s).

Anyways, here are some more pictures (and included schematic, which I'm not sure actually matches this amp). Curious if anyone has knowledge of these, theories, catalogs that mention them, etc. I'm curious to see how they measure once restored. Still not sure whether I want to mod them or leave the circuitry original.

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interesting that it has no global feedback, but appears to have balanced feedback from the plates of the output tubes to the 6201 tube in the middle.

Basic topology isn't terribly different than a Williamson, except for that feedback change. AC balance method is interesting. Change the load across the output of the inverter instead of using a trimmer on the plate or cathode resistor to tweak the output.
 
Agree.
And the screen supply is also interesting: I didn't know you could add 20uF of capacitance after the voltage regulators.
 
Nice amplifiers! I have several RCA amps, including a pair of MI-12188A, which I listened to for years. I've invested a lot of time studying RCA equipment from this era. Thanks for posting and I will be following this thread.
 
Agree.
And the screen supply is also interesting: I didn't know you could add 20uF of capacitance after the voltage regulators.

It appears that many of these VR tube regulated screen PA amps used substantial capacitance after the VR tubes without issue. The Cook Ultimate Amp schematic also calls for a similar series cap setup with two parallel resistors. I'm starting to wonder if that has some stability effect, but I can't really think of what it would be.
 
I noticed after posting that the schematic appears to call for replacing the tube rectifier with solid state diodes. However, the amps I received have their tube rectifiers in place. Seems like a single FW rectifier would be run pretty damn hard in this amp.
 
Interesting. I always thought that the VR could enter in oscillation in this case.
 
Yes I thought about it but the rectifier around nullify it.

Hmm. The rectifier does stop the capacitors from supplying energy to the VR tubes, which is likely necessary for oscillation. I wonder how that circuit is intended to work.
 
Should allow the caps to charge from the VR with minimal loss, but not feed back to the VR which would let it oscillate. Really the only way to do it and have a good amount of capacitor to get rid of any regulator hash without it turning into a relaxation oscillator. Could try it with a neon bulb and some caps easy enough.
 
interesting that it has no global feedback, but appears to have balanced feedback from the plates of the output tubes to the 6201 tube in the middle.

Basic topology isn't terribly different than a Williamson, except for that feedback change. AC balance method is interesting. Change the load across the output of the inverter instead of using a trimmer on the plate or cathode resistor to tweak the output.

Kind of like the SP10/20...but cap blocked instead of just resistors.

'From an RCA engineer' depends on which engineer? Hans Deitz? kinda doubt it... :)
cheers,
Douglas
 
I asked for a higher-res version of the schematic (which is a scan) and the seller said he'd ask the engineer about the original. I had assumed it was an estate sale, but apparently the guy is still alive. The seller also has a bunch of other RCA gear listed, probably from the same collection.
 
Kind of like the SP10/20...but cap blocked instead of just resistors.

'From an RCA engineer' depends on which engineer? Hans Deitz? kinda doubt it... :)
cheers,
Douglas

With this type of amp, the "no global feedback" thing has a more practical application... it allows bridging multiple amplifiers together in parallel because the secondary has no ground reference. Most of their amps were built this way, and I wonder if the SP10 was trickle down from this design.
 
true. Bogen used dedicated feedback windings for that purpose and they had to be tied together when adding amps in parallel. My Rauland-Borg amps came that way too, though their feedback windings are sort of terrible and result in very poor frequency response.
 
I have a couple of the MI-12182 amps sitting in the garage waiting for me to do something with them "someday." I purchased mine without the output transformers which I didn't care about since I have a pair of the Dynaco Mk III outputs built by Magnequest I intend to use (someday). My plan was to convert them to push pull parallel 1625 tubes for which I have bought a couple of potted 12V filament transformers. Still, I have been been seduced by other projects and haven't gotten to them yet.

As to these amps on topic, I noticed the change in output transformers right away but didn't notice they were converted to 6550. I think that's a very worthwhile change. I have never heard the 6146 tube and never had the desire after Ned Carlson told me they sounded like crap over thirty years ago. These amps will require considerable cleaning up, rebuilding and careful "tuning," but I am certain it will be a worthwhile project.
 
Got around to cleaning the first amp today (second is still in the box). It was left outdoors (or in a shed or something) for probably decades based on the amount of dirt buildup. Luckily, the paint on the chassis, which seems like enamel, is in amazing condition. However, while liberating it from the housing, I scratched the sides up a little bit. I should have stopped to hammer the housing outwards when it was getting stuck, but I thought I could force it out without damage. At least the scratches are small and not really visible from the front.

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If anyone has good tips for cleaning the rat's nest of point to point wiring, they would be much appreciated. I used distilled water, paper towels, and some brushes with decent results. I think when I remove the caps I'll be able to do a bit more, since they're big and blocking things. Also: see the hilarious parallel resistor sculpture at the bottom of the last picture. It's in parallel with the big wirewound power resistor. Guess its value had to be lowered a bit. Luckily, all the carbon-comp resistors are the nice Allen-Bradley type, so I'm hopeful they'll be within spec and I won't have to replace them.

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First blast out as much as you can with compressed air and an artists brush with the bristles clipped short to make them stiffer to loosen dirt.

Then Q tips and a cleaning liquid like water or alcohol, being careful to avoid water solvable markings. I would avoid disturbing the wiring pretty much at all, because rubber insulation can crack very easily.
 
The chassis are cleaning up pretty well. It shouldn't e to hard to remove the trany bells and repaint them while leaving the tranys wired in.
 
see the hilarious parallel resistor sculpture at the bottom of the last picture. It's in parallel with the big wirewound power resistor

Those flat resistors go open, I wouldn't be surprised if it's a hacked in repair like the ones I did on my MI-12188A amplifiers "temporarily" in 2001.
 
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