Re capping crossovers
- Thread starter cbn700
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Below is a write up on the TLS-80. the crossover schematics are there also. The technical write up you will find there is some of the most complete I have ever seen complete with "O" scope screen shots of the crossover function. There is a wealth of information about this speaker within this forum, including issues concerning recapping. Put IMF TLS80 in this forum's search engine and enjoy.
http://www.imf-electronics.com/Home/imf/speaker-range/reference-speakers/tls80#TOC-IMF-TLS-80
http://www.imf-electronics.com/Home/imf/speaker-range/reference-speakers/tls80#TOC-IMF-TLS-80
spkrdtr
spkrfixer
What he said! :yes: :thmbsp:
There are some recent threads on recapping an IMF RSPM and rebuilding some TLS80's. Do some google searching on the IMF models here at AK and I think you'll get more information.
Falcon Acoustics in the UK sells recap kits, and of course other sources here in the US and Canada can supply the individual parts.
Falcon Acoustics in the UK sells recap kits, and of course other sources here in the US and Canada can supply the individual parts.
canuckaudiog
On a quest for high fidelity
I had a pair of the IMF TLS 80 II's and had to recap them. I can pull up the thread for you again if you wish to see the pictures of the job. It's a little tricky but not too bad at all.
In the 80's however, the capacitors were split open so I had to change them. I couldn't tell you how much of a difference it made. What I can tell you though is that speakers that are in need of a recap don't sound very exciting, they sound 'tired', unbalanced. They sound good but a bit 'off'. If this describes the sound out of your 80's it's likely they are due for a recap.
In my RSPM's however, they were working before the recap, and I can say it made a very good difference in their sonics. They went from sounding great to sounding exceptional. I have a really hard time pulling myself away from the speakers whenever I have a listening session, whereas before I could turn it off after a couple of hours.
In the 80's however, the capacitors were split open so I had to change them. I couldn't tell you how much of a difference it made. What I can tell you though is that speakers that are in need of a recap don't sound very exciting, they sound 'tired', unbalanced. They sound good but a bit 'off'. If this describes the sound out of your 80's it's likely they are due for a recap.
In my RSPM's however, they were working before the recap, and I can say it made a very good difference in their sonics. They went from sounding great to sounding exceptional. I have a really hard time pulling myself away from the speakers whenever I have a listening session, whereas before I could turn it off after a couple of hours.
:thmbsp: Let Falcon know I referred you. Its great that they continue to supply the DIY crowd.
canuckaudiog
On a quest for high fidelity
I love it. It's very musical, beautiful, airy, transparent, powerful, you name it. It's easily the best amplifier I've laid ears on. I won't be upgrading for a very, very long time, I'm 100% satisfied with it.
I'll dig up that thread I made for the 80's by the way, so you can see what's involved.
Edit:
Here ya go
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=454571
Last edited:
ponderwilu
Bond ... James Bond.
Me too. I thought if any speaker needed recapping my KLH 17's (circa 1968) would. I happen to have three sets. Recapped one and compared to the other two uncapped sets I really cannot hear any difference. I'm sure others here have benefited from it ... but I didn't.
canuckaudiog
On a quest for high fidelity
Ah you were at the gathering? So was I. Perhaps we spoke there, I remember talking to someone who had just bought a set of 80's not too long ago. They were the early ones without the stands. Is that you?
captouch
Addicted Member
Seems like the hardest part was to resolder the recapped board back in in such a confined space, is that right?
Would the whole process have been easier if you just cut the four wires (from the speaker terminals) that go to the crossover board, so you could remove the baffle and crossover as one piece and then splice in four extension wires to enable you to reattach to crossover board outside of the cabinet?
Then, maybe, you would not have to desoldering the crossover board from the baffle either.
I'm thinking of re-capping my 50's and just looking for ideas to make the process simpler since I also don't like having to contort or work in tight spaces.
What did you end up using to reattach the crossover board to the foam/cab?
Would the whole process have been easier if you just cut the four wires (from the speaker terminals) that go to the crossover board, so you could remove the baffle and crossover as one piece and then splice in four extension wires to enable you to reattach to crossover board outside of the cabinet?
Then, maybe, you would not have to desoldering the crossover board from the baffle either.
I'm thinking of re-capping my 50's and just looking for ideas to make the process simpler since I also don't like having to contort or work in tight spaces.
What did you end up using to reattach the crossover board to the foam/cab?
I love it. It's very musical, beautiful, airy, transparent, powerful, you name it. It's easily the best amplifier I've laid ears on. I won't be upgrading for a very, very long time, I'm 100% satisfied with it.
I'll dig up that thread I made for the 80's by the way, so you can see what's involved.
Edit:
Here ya go
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=454571
canuckaudiog
On a quest for high fidelity
Actually what I ended up doing was desoldering all 12 wires from the board, taking it out, and putting the new caps in that way. The toughest part of the job was resoldering the wires back onto the board inside the speaker. You could solder on extension wires, that's certainly doable and would make it easier. The only real hard part, is if you look at the pictures, you'll notice that the 4 wires on top of the board actually have to go through the board, through tiny holes, to be soldered on the bottom side of the board. This out of everything was the most challenging. On the 50's, I don't think that will be a problem because all the wires just solder onto the bottom part of the board.
For re-attaching the board, I used double-sided tape. It worked like a charm.
canuckaudiog
On a quest for high fidelity
Oh okay. Then it was someone else I spoke with. Yours are the pair that are painted black, right? My other pair of 80's also came from Jac, they were the ones needing crossover work that he had laying around.
If you want any pointers just let me know, you can PM me and I will give you my cell number and we can chat about it.
canuckaudiog
On a quest for high fidelity
That's a good idea. I have no idea why someone would want to paint the beautiful, matched veneer on those speakers. You probably just need to strip the black paint off. :yes:
Also, royal air mail takes anywhere from 5-10 business days to arrive. For me, it varies, but usually 6-7 business days is what it takes for it to arrive in Edmonton.
