Stuart,
Thanks for the link. I will read it when I get in from mowing.
Thanks for the link. I will read it when I get in from mowing.
Realistic Minimus 7 ID Thread
- Thread starter Grainger49
- Start date
moermusic2
Active Member
I have M7's with the SD13 tweets. the woofs are 1218's. One is basically a gray cone and one may be a faded white( a replacement from the bay). It has extra writing on it that says: lowEff. ?? all 4 drivers are made in Japan. Don't remember when purchased. all have metal mounts and metal grilles.
mine are the black 40-2030 B's
mine are the black 40-2030 B's
Last edited:
That puts a whole new wrinkle in my perception of driver chronology. Had previously thought SD-13 only showed up in the earliest (no suffix) 40-2030. If they made it all the way to B, then they must have ran concurrent with SD-50 tweeters, and are probably more abundant than I'd suspected.
Haven't found any 40-2030, 2030A or 2030B made anywhere except Japan. 40-2030C though are from all over -- seen samples from Japan, Korea and Malaysia. Also finding (so far) only SD-60 tweeters with ripple-ring faces in the C suffix. All is subject to change of course as more data is gathered.
Two-and-a-half questions, if I may:
Could you post the numbers on your "QC" stickers?
Did you purchase your Minimus-7's in Canada, and do they have "INTERTAN INC." on the label? (example below)
Thanks for sharing!
Attachments
There were several. Most well known are STA-7 and later, when the Minimus-11 came out, STA-11 and STA-111.
Combined with Minimus speakers they were dubbed "System Seven" and "System Eleven."
Last edited:
Cool. Thanks for the info.
Since yours are C's, could you also post where they were manufactured? So far, I'm finding Malaysia most common, Japan next and Korea rare. The sample pool is still small yet -- more data should yield a more accurate spread.
I looked for one of those for a year. Never found it. But I later determined that a Dyna ST-70 was awesome with them.
I have a set of silver Minimus 7's and a few Audiosource variations of them (although based on some of the comments I've read, the latter may be taboo to discuss in this thread) and was wondering -- what's the best way to remove the grills on these without bending them or scraping paint off? I'm so curious to get inside but don't want to damage them as they are pretty flawless. Thanks!
I take a very small allen wrench and slip the short end through a hole and pull. The same thing is also good for pulling a dent out. Pushing from the back is also good for removing dents.
The way to the heart of the crossover is through the "woofer" and then you unscrew the crossover plate.
The way to the heart of the crossover is through the "woofer" and then you unscrew the crossover plate.
KrisM
Lunatic Member
I picked up a pair of the wood ones today for $8. The model number is 40-2039A. They came with mounting brackets. They are in decent shape, but the wood looks like it could use a re-finish. Is there a thread at AK on touching up the finish on these? One of plastic parts of the grill cover is cracked, but it holds together fine, and would probably glue together if I need it.
I worked for the shack in the early '90s and we sold a lot of 7s. Many for surround use before 5.1 came around. I've noticed a lot of people talking them up here, and this is the first pair I've come across at a thrift. Weird considering how well they sold.
I'm looking forward to giving them a listen. I'm thinking they will become part of my daughters system. It's still in the works, being under two years old, but time flies.
I worked for the shack in the early '90s and we sold a lot of 7s. Many for surround use before 5.1 came around. I've noticed a lot of people talking them up here, and this is the first pair I've come across at a thrift. Weird considering how well they sold.
I'm looking forward to giving them a listen. I'm thinking they will become part of my daughters system. It's still in the works, being under two years old, but time flies.
All my grills are perforated metal. They have a Realistic plastic logo on them. Is that what yours has? I don't remember if the grills on the W model are cloth or not.
There are several threads on refinishing wood cases of all kinds.
There are several threads on refinishing wood cases of all kinds.
I don't know of a dedicated 7W refinishing post.
bodegabandit
Is storming the castle!
I just picked up a pair of M7-W, my first pair of Minimus 7's, gonna pair them with a pair of Optimus pro LX-4 also in wood veneer (which are awesome) powered by a STA-78 as my multi-media / computer sound system. I'm thinking about getting a sub for bass reinforcement.
KrisM
Lunatic Member
I gave them a listen this morning with the new Mavis Staples album. I like them, for what they are. It took awhile to get used to the lack of bass. I went from a pair of PSB Stratus Silvers to the 7s, so it was a big difference. And the Silvers are pushed against a wall for now(kid issues). But they sounded good sitting at the computer and will make a nice set-up for my daughter. I guess I need to decide to mod or not. And the there is some water damage on the finish, so I'll need to address that.
RadShak1251
Super Member
Just a quick note after reading the OP's original post: when using damping material i.e. fiberglass or polyfill stuffing, don't literally stuff a speaker enclosure with it. Instead place it in there without crushing it (not that I'm saying the OP did this! In other words this is really just a preemptive piece of advice 
). Because if it's crammed/crushed in there, the air spaces in between the fibers - what gives the stuffing its ability to damp unwanted sound waves - will pretty much be eliminated, and can negatively affect the woofer's operation.
Anyhoo....as an owner of a pair of Minimus 77s (with an RCA badge
) bought new in 2002, got to read the rest of the thread!
). Because if it's crammed/crushed in there, the air spaces in between the fibers - what gives the stuffing its ability to damp unwanted sound waves - will pretty much be eliminated, and can negatively affect the woofer's operation.Anyhoo....as an owner of a pair of Minimus 77s (with an RCA badge
) bought new in 2002, got to read the rest of the thread!
Nope, I stuffed it. You read right.
I know that isn't the accepted philosophy. I don't know the absorptive qualities of bra stuffing (fiber fill) versus fiberglass that was intended for insulation. The fiberglass was more dense than I could have made the fiberfill. So I went whole hog!
I know that isn't the accepted philosophy. I don't know the absorptive qualities of bra stuffing (fiber fill) versus fiberglass that was intended for insulation. The fiberglass was more dense than I could have made the fiberfill. So I went whole hog!
mikeybc
Listener
Sorry for the late reply, My C's were both made in Japan, so are all the drivers
RadShak1251
Super Member
Forty lashes with a wet noodle.
That makes sense, since much of the fiberglass I've seen *is* denser than the polyfill, so "smushing" the polyfill in there probably equaled the fiberglass's density. And ultimately, if the speaker sounds right, that's what matters in the end.