Asmodeus2112
Super Member
My wife agrees with you.
Recapping a Yamaha PX-3 linear tracking turntable
- Thread starter dlucy
- Start date
RCHeliz
New Member
Oh noo, duplicate entry. Ordered and 220uF was nowhere to be found... this is why.
---->Control C15 1 Capacitor Electrolytic 220 uF 50 V power 647-UPW1H220MDD...
same as
Control C14 1 Capacitor Electrolytic 22 uF 50 V power 647-UPW1H220MDD
Dang! sorry about that and thanks for catching it. I’ll update the prior posting.
RCHeliz
New Member
N/P glad I found it.
Also here are modern equivalents for the transistors:
2SC2320 -> 512-KSC1815Y
2SD667 -> 512-KSC2383Y
2SB647 -> 512-KSA1013Y
2SA999 -> 512-KSA1015Y
(Thank you Ty!)
Btw, ever seen a PX-3 that has an issue with the LD101 inside the arm that does not light up fully? Because of that it does not track.
See video here:
Led is physically ok but the circuit supplying power to it seems to have a problem. What a PITA!
Also here are modern equivalents for the transistors:
2SC2320 -> 512-KSC1815Y
2SD667 -> 512-KSC2383Y
2SB647 -> 512-KSA1013Y
2SA999 -> 512-KSA1015Y
(Thank you Ty!)
Btw, ever seen a PX-3 that has an issue with the LD101 inside the arm that does not light up fully? Because of that it does not track.
See video here:
Last edited:
Glad you posted a list. If you would, please edit it and remove the “TA” from the end of the replacement devices. Those two letters are not part of the replacement part number; they are the packaging type (e.g. cut tape, bulk, ammo pack, reel, etc). If someone is looking up replacements, you don’t want them to think the part isn’t available when it’s just that part in THAT particular packaging type is out of stock. A lesson I learned the hard way....
RCHeliz
New Member
Also wanted to add the led that drives the arm tracking.
Also on that list there are some 160v caps which are really not needed at that high of a voltage rating.
Not that they would not work in the circuit just no point to have 160v rating.
Arm LED - NTE3000
Table has been repaired see the initial thread for details.
Also on that list there are some 160v caps which are really not needed at that high of a voltage rating.
Not that they would not work in the circuit just no point to have 160v rating.
Arm LED - NTE3000
Table has been repaired see the initial thread for details.
Last edited:
paronaram
Member
Cut-and-paste BOM (for Mouser.com) (edited 12/16/2024):
647-UPW1C220MDD6TP 3
647-UPW1C330MDD 1
647-UPW1E4R7MDD1TD 1
647-UPW1H220MDD 1
647-UPW1H221MPD 1
647-UPW1V100MDD 8
647-UPW1V101MPD1TD 1
647-UPW1V102MHD 3
647-UPW1V220MDD1TD 1
647-UPW1V471MPD 2
647-UPW2C010MED 1
647-UPW2CR47MED 1
647-UVP1V330MPD 2
80-PME271E522MR30 1
80-R413I2220JB00M 1
647-UBT1H220MPD8TD 2
647-UKL1C220MDDANA 3
I just went to the Mouser site and the very first item on the list did not show as available......once I realized that this was not cut and paste, in that one has to remove the "3" at the end of the string, the item DID display but Mouser says:
Lifecycle:
End of Life: Scheduled for obsolescence and will be discontinued by the manufacturer.
and.....
Shipping Alert:
Mouser does not presently sell this product in your region.
So, what can one do to actually obtain the necessary parts to do this recap? Thanks.
paronaram
Member
I agree with Dr. Ear, and if Mouser does not ship to you, you can use the following stores:
DigiKey
rs-online.com
Newark
Jameco
or
Farnell
(there may be more, I just post here what I used)
Regarding "End of Life: Scheduled for obsolescence and will be discontinued by the manufacturer." Any passive component with that message is still OK for our purposes here.
DigiKey
rs-online.com
Newark
Jameco
or
Farnell
(there may be more, I just post here what I used)
Regarding "End of Life: Scheduled for obsolescence and will be discontinued by the manufacturer." Any passive component with that message is still OK for our purposes here.
Thank you both very much. I really need to get off my duff and do this work. I can handle the mechanics, have developed my soldering skills, but really don't understand the electronics much at all. Yes, I can read what it says on the side of the capacitor, but do I really understand it? Nope, so a list that gives everything needed really is a godsend for me and I can probably run with that ball.....
Yes, I did... but, as always with shared BOM lists, you should double check the items before you order. Do you have two 220uF caps? Or one 220uF and one 22uF?
If you are talking about the C14 and C15 positions, I have one 220uF and one 22uF cap.
PS - thanks for getting back to me and helping out, of which I need a LOT as I know next to nothing about these things but am good at the mechanical end of it (soldering etc.).
PS - thanks for getting back to me and helping out, of which I need a LOT as I know next to nothing about these things but am good at the mechanical end of it (soldering etc.).
That type of capacitor needs special IEC or CE or UL safety approvals in order to be allowed placement across an AC power line. The approvals usually assure that if the cap fails, it will not start a fire. A coupling cap in an amplifier would not require this kind of rating. I did work testing other components for the same reason, and the test involved placing cheese cloth around the test part, and then subjecting the part to a prescribed overload condition. To pass, the part was not allowed to char the cheese cloth.
The electronics on the PX-2 are much different. It has another board and there are two power transformers!
Nevertheless, it is also easy to work on.
Dang! Using the BOM tool at Mouser, I am finding that 9 of the 14 components are listed with a red ! and the explanation is that they are no longer being produced or that Mouser is no longer selling this product. I'm starting to get the feeling that I'm not destined to do this project, much as I would like to, even got the table on my bench and got it all apart.....Here's the list I copied and pasted into the BOM tool:
647-UPW1C220MDD6TP 3 !
647-UPW1C330MDD 1 !
647-UPW1E4R7MDD1TD 1 !
647-UPW1H220MDD 1 !
647-UPW1H221MPD 1
647-UPW1V100MDD 8 !
647-UPW1V101MPD1TD 1
647-UPW1V102MHD 3
647-UPW1V220MDD1TD 1 !
647-UPW1V471MPD 2
647-UPW2C010MED 1 !
647-UPW2CR47MED 1 !
647-UVP1V330MPD 2
80-PME271E522MR30 1 !
So, I'm guessing I'm out of luck here and will just pack it back up and use the functions that do work, although I'm pretty concerned about the wrong voltages getting to the chip and blowing that up......might just be a cool-looking paperweight on the other hand. I'm really not savvy enough to go searching for replacement components online to get the ones Mouser doesn't sell any more, so that list was, I thought, my holy grail of tools to use to get what I needed to replace.....dang!
647-UPW1C220MDD6TP 3 !
647-UPW1C330MDD 1 !
647-UPW1E4R7MDD1TD 1 !
647-UPW1H220MDD 1 !
647-UPW1H221MPD 1
647-UPW1V100MDD 8 !
647-UPW1V101MPD1TD 1
647-UPW1V102MHD 3
647-UPW1V220MDD1TD 1 !
647-UPW1V471MPD 2
647-UPW2C010MED 1 !
647-UPW2CR47MED 1 !
647-UVP1V330MPD 2
80-PME271E522MR30 1 !
So, I'm guessing I'm out of luck here and will just pack it back up and use the functions that do work, although I'm pretty concerned about the wrong voltages getting to the chip and blowing that up......might just be a cool-looking paperweight on the other hand. I'm really not savvy enough to go searching for replacement components online to get the ones Mouser doesn't sell any more, so that list was, I thought, my holy grail of tools to use to get what I needed to replace.....dang!