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Recommendation On Active Crossover

With a passive bi-amping setup, each amp is still carrying the full audio range signal. The unwanted bit is wasted in the speaker crossover (with a trebleWith a passive bi-amping setup, each amp is still carrying the full audio range signal. The unwanted bit is wasted in the speaker crossover (with a treble amp in a 3way passive, about 85% of amp output is wasted as heat in the crossover) amp in a 3way passive, about 85% of amp output is wasted as heat in the crossover)

It's true there is a waste, for lack of better term, in the voltage headroom but I don't believe 85% of the amp output is wasted as heat in the crossover.

The load impedance to the amp is high, relatively speaking, below the high pass range. Yes, the amp is swinging the full voltage range which is wasteful in this regard compared to bandwidth-limited/active biamping. But, the amp is not making appreciable power below the high pass and as such the crossover isn't really wasting all that as heat.
 
So. I haven't had a crossover for decades. In my PA days I'd never ever have gone with Behringer. I've wned several of their products that went to crap within a very, very short period of use.
DBX was the de facto serious choice then. And you still see them around a lot here. However, many digital multi channel PA amps have built in DSP (crossover) facilities and a lot of smaller sets have them built into their plate amps.

Anyway, wanted to integrate a (few) sub(s) into my regular system and am going to build an efficient (similar to the Econowave project) 2 way soon. And the Behringer CX2310 costs peanuts new (99€ to be precise) + fits the bill perfectly. Will report back in with findings and hope it doesn't disintegrate as it's more of a set and mostly forget kind of unit.

P.s. I also noted the existence of the "t.racks DSP 4x4 Mini" 120€ unit on Thomann, but that didn't have the I/O I needed, otherwise I'd have chosen that one out of sheer curiosity.
P.p.s. If I'd need a dedicated unit to use heavily or with good sound quality I'd look at the aforementioned options or get a dedicated (used..) laptop + external soundcard with enough I/O + most importantly, top notch converters and just run software.
 
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