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Reisong A10: Technical review.

couple ways to do it, depends on your needs and how much you might want to modify the thing.

Easiest is to eliminate the control. Can either remove it from the circuit and wire around it, or just turn it all the way up and not touch it. Electrically they end up in the same place so far as the amp is concerned.

If some amount of attenuation is needed, a voltage divider with a small cap across the "upper" resistor in the chain to compensate for the HF loss works quite nicely. In theory you could do that with a pot, but the cap value would be correct at only one position. There is probably some mathy way to come up with this cap value, I just measure stuff and pick things based on measurements. Its probably going to be some small-ish number of pf, a variable cap out of an AM radio chassis should provide suitable range and a square wave display will tell you when its right. Too small and the leading edge is rounded over. Too big and its got overshoot. Goldilocks will have a nice sharp square corner.

A less ideal but possibly feasible solution is a lower value volume control, but that assumes the source has low enough source impedance to drive it. A 10k pot is harder to drive, but has far less effect on frequency than say a 500k pot.

A better way to retain a control with a high value that allows for easy drive without the roll-off problem is to stick a buffer stage in there. Miller capacitence is grid to plate capacity * gain + 1. A buffer has a gain of 1, so the Miller capacitence ends up low enough to be insignificant with anything but the most absurd volume control values. Buffer can be whatever you want. Cathode follower for the purists, or you could do a FET source follower or op amp stage, depending what you prefer and what space and power supply is available for the job.
 
Thanks. I’ll avoid this control by turning it to the max and drive it with the volume control of my DSP. I’ll gain a remote controlled volume.

My Yamaha DSP was already present with a lfe output for my subwoofer plus a graphic Equalizer / Analyser that will help me correct my Room.
 
Rainy day = tube work day!

Work: replacement of link capacitors with Soviet PIO 0.24uF. Decoupling capacitors driver audio quality 100uF + 22nF polypropylene). Power decoupling capacity 100uF doubled by audio quality 22nF polypropylene). I'm waiting for my 12AX7 Philips from 1970 and won't touch anything afterwards (GZ34 Mullard rectifier nos and 6V6 RCA power nos operating point set at 100% of datasheet).

Listening: the impression that a veil has been lifted and that the sound no longer comes out of the speakers but IS in the room in front of me.

None of the transformers gets particularly hot after several hours of listening. I'll let it all settle down now.

The next step will be to organize a listening room and correct it with pink noise + Pioneer microphone + equalizer / spectrum analyzer.

I'm also in the process of stocking up on a new 300B SE triodes Project. I still have to order the transformers from ABL Transfos (made according to my specs here in France). It'll be an entry into the big league, with the costs that go with it.

On the other hand, I don't yet know whether to keep my ELTAX Monitor 1s (87db) or switch to Monitor 3 (89db) or Klipsch RB81s (97db). At the moment and as i said in my previous Post, I've got the amp at full volume and I'm using my Yamaha DSP and its remote control. For a very comfortable listening Volume, the knob is set between 10 and 11 o'clock. No parasitic noise in the amp under these conditions and after the Modifications.
 

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Really ? why is Kipsch reknowed for high efficiency ?

Heritage series (original speakers).
Klipsch is not the only company that lists optimistic specs.

 
Their old "heritage" line are. These newer ones are over rated on their efficiency. Like the RP600M is more like an 89-90db speaker.
O/T - Damn it. Just went down this rabbit hole. RP600M (or II) were on my list to try based in part on sensitivity. I still may try them, but they probably won't work out with this efficiency. I do not like companies/products with inaccurate specs.
 
No, sure ! I use 87db Eltax Monotor I ’s and they are fully satisfying.

The last mod i have to do on my A10 is the 12AX7 drivers. I’ll experiment a SRPP design and describe it here if it brings a real Value.
 
Today i installed a switch to be able to use standard mode (UL) or Triode Mode. Triode Mode is incredibly clear for a non significant power loss.
it’s a big step for nearly no cost !

A question : is the use of KT77 of any Interest ?
 
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Triode mode will reduce the max power available substantially. If you aren't using much power, it will still be a usable amp. Also triode works with no feedback needed.
 
What about the use of KT77 or 88 ?
KT77 = EL34 as far as power use, it's a direct swap just like a 6CA7 is. KT88 is not suited for this amp. It would technically work but it would be VERY under biased and the amp down't have the power transformer nor the output transformers to deal with the wattage generated by a KT888 biased up correctly
 
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