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Rek-O-Kut Rondine Jr. L-34 turntable with Empire 98 tonearm need a Plinth

corpblues

AK Member
Any love for a Rek-O-Kut Rondine Jr. L-34 turntable with Empire 98 tonearm?

I just picked up a pair locally out of an old console, thus no plinth.
I am anxious to try it out.
What would be the best solution for a plinth?

Does anyone have a pattern for making the table board?

Anyone have a Plinth for my Rek-O-Kut?
Or want to build one for me?

Thanks!
 
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Build one, they do well in mass plinths. That is also a good match between the arm and table.
 
Wow! That will be a killer combo!

I had the same situation and I've just had it sitting on a milk crate and it sounds great, will get around to making a plinth someday.
 
That’s a fine combo, will make for a fantastic experience. Have an Empire 108 cartridge on one of my ROKs with a Micropoise arm and it’s one of my favorites.

Hardest part of plinth building is the cutout for the actual table, the bottom box can be done with butt joints and nails ;)

Plenty of examples on here....

Best Regards,
Andy
 
The person I bought it from removed it from the console, but did not provide the board the turntable and arm were mounted on.

Does anyone have a pattern for making the table board?

Anyone have a Plinth for my Rek-O-Kut?
Or want to build one for me?
 
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Some pictures.

Appears to be in extremely good condition. I have asked the seller to see if he can remove and provide me the table board to use as a template. Hopefully he can get it out of the console.

Have to say I was a bit surprised to get a box with all the pieces when I arrived to pick it up, instead of it still mounted on the table board in the first picture.

Hopefully this was a great find after I get a plinth built for it. It came with two headshells. Stylus look useable to my naked eye. Seems I bought another project.
 
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That’s a terrific find! The only critical measurement is from tonearm center pivot to the platter spindle center and/or overhang distance.

It’s not very complicated to cut out a whole for that model but would certainly be easier with the original board. If you can’t get the board, insert the table and measure the distance from the tonearm to the spindle.

The idlers will most likely need replacement, and don’t loose the ball bearing ;)


Lots of information on this site reference updating your table.....



VR
Andy
 
It did come with the instructions for the tonearm, which includes a template for mounting the arm. That will probably give me what I need to mount the arm properly.

I did find one ball bearing in the bottom of the bag the guy put the parts in. I assume that is the one you are refering to. Is there only "one ball" and the plater rests on it?
 
It did come with the instructions for the tonearm, which includes a template for mounting the arm, that will probably give me what I need to mount the arm properly.

I did find one ball bearing in the bottom of the bag the guy put the parts in. I assume that is the one you are refering to. Is there only "one ball" and the plater rests on it?

The instructions is all you really need, and yes the platter spindle rides on the ball bearing. Use some synthetic oil no higher than 20wt to just cover the ball bearing.
 
View attachment 2188021 View attachment 2188022 View attachment 2188023 View attachment 2188024 View attachment 2188025 Some pictures. Appears to be in extremely good condition. I have asked the seller to see if he can remove and provide me the table board to use as a template. Hopefully he can get it out of the console.

Have to say I was a bit surprised to get a box with all the pieces when I arrived to pick it up, instead of it still mounted on the table board in the first picture.

Hopefully this was a great find after I get a plinth built for it. It came with two headshells. Stylus look useable to my naked eye. Seems I bought another project.

Congratulations!

Yup, the stylus on your M7D does look useable. That + the M3D are my favorite MM cartridges!

I also see a GE triple play cartridge. I use an RPX for my mono system.

Many moons ago I wrote ROK Tips which I've updated. Maybe that'll help too?

As recommended by @adnick (many thanks!), I ordered a brand new idler wheel from laherbau (at the auction site) which works great with my L34 and B12GH. Make sure you order the L34/37/B12GH version. The idler wheel that came with the B12H Rondine Deluxe fitted with the Ashland motor has a different idler wheel bearing diameter.

Enjoy!
 
Congratulations!

Yup, the stylus on your M7D does look useable. That + the M3D are my favorite MM cartridges!

I also see a GE triple play cartridge. I use an RPX for my mono system.

Many moons ago I wrote ROK Tips which I've updated. Maybe that'll help too?

As recommended by @adnick (many thanks!), I ordered a brand new idler wheel from laherbau (at the auction site) which works great with my L34 and B12GH. Make sure you order the L34/37/B12GH version. The idler wheel that came with the B12H Rondine Deluxe fitted with the Ashland motor has a different idler wheel bearing diameter.

Enjoy!

where could I get a massive plinth made like the one in your tips list? Building one is beyond my woodworking skill level.
 
where could I get a massive plinth made like the one in your tips list? Building one is beyond my woodworking skill level.

There are Eastern European and Russian sellers on eBay who make plinths for the Garrard 301/401, Lenco, Thorens TD124 and even Technics SP10, but I've never seen any for the Rek O Kut.

I'm not a skilled woodworker but back in the 90s, ready made plinths were not available for the Garrard 301 and TD124 so I DIY'ed my plinths using layers of plywood. Fortunately, I had access to a lumberyard that could cut my boards to size. All I had to do was jig-saw the cut out and glue/clamp them together.

JEL34-1.jpg

IME, the ROK L34/37 is the simplest to DIY since it only needs a rectangular cutout for the motor unit and a 5" hole saw for the tonearm mounts.
 
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I'm not a skilled woodworker but back in the 90s, ready made plinths were not available for the Garrard 301 and TD124 so I DIY'ed my plinths using layers of plywood. Fortunately, I had access to a lumberyard that could cut my boards to size. All I had to do was jig-saw the cut out and glue/clamp them together.

IME, the ROK L34/37 is the simplest to DIY since it only needs a rectangular cutout for the motor unit and a 5" hole saw for the tonearm mounts.

I "think" I could do this. Wonder if I could glue on nice veneer to hide the stacked wood. In my mind it would be simple, but in reality I'm thinking my effort might look like a 1st grader made it.
 
I "think" I could do this. Wonder if I could glue on nice veneer to hide the stacked wood. In my mind it would be simple, but in reality I'm thinking my effort might look like a 1st grader made it.

Hopefully @adnick can share better tips since he's much more competent and experienced working with wood.

Good luck on your ROK project and keep us updated!
 
I "think" I could do this. Wonder if I could glue on nice veneer to hide the stacked wood. In my mind it would be simple, but in reality I'm thinking my effort might look like a 1st grader made it.

@setup1 glad Abe’s idlers are working for ya, he makes some quality products.....

Edit: BTW that’s a fine looking layered plinth, bet it works very well, and you did it yourself, that’s a satisfying experience that never goes away :cool:

@corpblues you could veneer stacked wood, like stacked plywood, however you might want a substrate otherwise there will probably be bleed through, but that in and of itself might look good ;)

My advice is to practice building a very small example of your vision, and practice whatever joinery, if any, that the project requires.

Always try something you’ve never done before on a practice piece, woodworking projects are rarely perfect, it’s the nature of the game....

Another option is you could get someone to cut out the plinth out of the material you select and send it to you un-assembled, that could reduce the shipping and labor costs.

For instance a box design with biscuits or dowels for alignment is not as difficult to glue together, and if the builder already has the material that would probably reduce the price.

The above suggestion wouldn’t work as well with a layer design but plywood and veneer are much cheaper than something like Birdseye Maple, but labor is probably higher.....

I’d encourage you to try a test project, I’d be glad to help in any way possible, especially if you have some tools already.


Best Regards,
Andy
 
They were noisy as a freight train when new and the Empire tone arms with their troublesome head shell mounting platform were very undependable. You'd be much better off with an Empire 598 TT with an Shure SME 3009 tone arm. from the same period. The Rek-o-kut was used by small radio stations but they had a 50 or 60hz filter in the phono pre-amp before the signal ever went to the broadcast mixer.
 
Always gonna be haters, belt drives, direct drives idlers, have at least one of each currently, and would still like to have your model of ROK ;)

The only issue with that Empire arm is the proprietary headshell, and that’s only an issue if you plan on changing carts often, then you may have to buy an aftermarket second or third headshell, otherwise it’s a fantastic arm.

There’s a whole family of ROK turntables, yours is not a Broadcast version, it’s one of many consumer models sold at stores and through mail orders.

There’s several different Broadcast and Transcription models, used at all types of recording studios and radio stations.

Build your plinth, put on a set of delrin idlers with rubber o-rings and it’s so quiet you can’t here it run, and even apps like vibe, seismograph and dB can’t pick up any noise. The speed is simple to set and then it’s rock solid.

Parts wise you won’t spend more than $100, and that’s a very high estimate, then it’ll be ready for another 60 years!


Enjoy the experience,

Andy
 
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