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Rek-O-Kut Rondine Jr. L-34 turntable with Empire 98 tonearm need a Plinth

The Empire 98 is a fine tonearm. I've been using one with great results on my Fairchild 412 for a couple of years and it's a excellent performer. Have a M3D on it.

Be careful with the headshells are they are extremely rare and difficult to find(so great that you have 2!) although a seller on the auction site makes pretty good, albeit expensive replicas.
 
I looked at the grommets and idler wheels today as I was going to order new ones so they would be there ready for my project. But they actually all look really good, so I’m going to build enough of a plinth to give it a spin before buying parts. Motor seems to be in great condition and seens quiet at least in running in my hand

I’ll share updates as I progress but will be a few weeks before I’ll have time to work on it.

8CFBC2E8-7F14-4C7B-9BBA-8E1AC1A03999.jpeg BBB10446-4D2A-46A5-8A14-224D401518F0.jpeg
06891C7F-9683-48CD-A12C-7B20CF7C8506.jpeg
 
That’s good news, however the idlers tend to get too hard, but they may be fine....

Noticed your looking for someone to build a plinth, if you can’t find a builder let me know, might be able to help you out.


Andy
 
Making progress. I bought and installed new rubber mounts. Was easier to remove and install than I expected.

Looks like I need new idlers. The table turns too slowly and appears the 33 1/3 not making good contact. The 78 side works better.

I think my issue is the idlers as the motor seems to spin find and seems quiet to me.

How do you adjust speed?

Think I'll wait on building the plinth until I have it up and running well. Now off to shop for idlers.

Question, the two idler wheels on mine look different, but the new ones I see for sale do not look different from each other. Maybe they were just replaced at different times. Will the same idler work on both the 33 1/3 and 45 side?
Answer : I just realized they appear to be same idler. They are just installed with different side facing up, which makes their height touch either the 33 1/3 or 45 rpm part of the shaft. I was so careful to take apart and remove them in the exact same location, that I did not notice they are the same idler (I think).
 
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Making progress. I bought and installed new rubber mounts. Was easier to remove and install than I expected.

Looks like I need new idlers. The table turns too slowly and appears the 33 1/3 not making good contact. The 78 side works better.

I think my issue is the idlers as the motor seems to spin find and seems quiet to me.

How do you adjust speed?

Think I'll wait on building the plinth until I have it up and running well. Now off to shop for idlers.

Question, the two idler wheels on mine look different, but the new ones I see for sale do not look different from each other. Maybe they were just replaced at different times. Will the same idler work on both the 33 1/2 and 78 side?


Always good to make progress;)

Measure the diameter of those idlers, if there’s a difference then new ones would need to be the same....my TR 12 uses 2 idlers and they are different size, 33 & 45.

Don’t have that model table but those screws on either side of the speed selection knob look like speed adjustment screws. Would assume you slightly loosen the screw on the speed side your trying to set pushing the knob gently until you reach the desired speed.


Someone with knowledge of that table may offer better advice.....



VR
Andy
 
Well now that I figured out it is the same idler on each side, just one side turned oppositive side facing up... Feel dumb I didn't notice that before...

Problem now is I can't find any to buy. Seller laherbau doesn't have any currently listed for sale. Anyone know where I can buy them?
 
Well now that I figured out it is the same idler on each side, just one side turned oppositive side facing up... Feel dumb I didn't notice that before...

Problem now is I can't find any to buy. Seller laherbau doesn't have any currently listed for sale. Anyone know where I can buy them?

I’ll send you his contact information..
 
How do you adjust speed?

ROKJR-1.jpg

The set screws aren't exactly for "speed adjustment." It regulates the tension/friction between the idler and the inner rim of the platter as I explained in my ROK Tips page many moons ago.

I hope that helps!
 
ROKJR-1.jpg

The set screws aren't really for "speed adjustment." It regulates the tension/friction between the idler and the inner rim of the platter as I explained in my ROK Tips page many moons ago.

I hope that helps!


Thanks for correcting my supposition.....that fiction/tension could adversely impact the speed if not adjusted correctly?

Told yo that someone with experience would come along and provide answers and/or pointers related to your specific table.

There are many, many pages on the different models of ROK tables, it can be overwhelming to search through them; great that you provided him a link.

VR
Andy
 
Thanks for correcting my supposition.....that fiction/tension could adversely impact the speed if not adjusted correctly?

Told yo that someone with experience would come along and provide answers and/or pointers related to your specific table.

There are many, many pages on the different models of ROK tables, it can be overwhelming to search through them; great that you provided him a link.

VR
Andy

You were very much on track Andy!

If the screw is pushing the knob too far to the center, there won't be any idler/inner rim contact or not enough torque for the platter to be driven at a stable speed. But too far left (or right for 45rpm) can also slow the speed down as well as increase noise.

It's a very simple design and anyone with some mechanical inclination will get the proper adjustment sooner than later.
 
Thanks, so I could adjust it due to worn idlers, but that would skew the speed. I’m searching for new idlers and will adjust the screws only if needed after new idlers installed. I assume they have never been moved thus likely in the proper location. I’ve learned from other projects to take it slow and not force or unnecessarily adjust things when restoring vintage gear. Thanks again for all the advice!
 
Thanks, so I could adjust it due to worn idlers, but that would skew the speed. I’m searching for new idlers and will adjust the screws only if needed after new idlers installed. I assume they have never been moved thus likely in the proper location. I’ve learned from other projects to take it slow and not force or unnecessarily adjust things when restoring vintage gear. Thanks again for all the advice!

I don't think there was such a thing as a "factory setting" for the set screw that's analogous to a spark plug gap setting in a car engine.

When I started messing with these turntables, there was hardly any information available on the internet, so I had to experiment and that's how I discovered how it functions. These are fine tuning adjustments to get the most from a mechanical design.

If I were in your shoes, I'd adjust it to work with the old idler wheels. Getting new ones from laherbau doesn't guarantee that the present settings will be optimal. Might as well get a head start with tuning. Anyway, the reason for getting new idler wheels is mostly for quiet performance. - fresh rubber + new bearings = less vibration and noise transmitted.

ROKidlerwheels.jpg


Truth be told, I had to adjust those screws for all these three idler wheels when I did the ROK Tips redux article update. I also did the same for the laherbau which I got at a later date. Thanks to Andy's recommendation, they are good!
 
I wonder if anyone has tried urethane rubber for the drive wheels, I wonder if it would reduce drive noise.

As far as the plinth, some clamps, a router to cut out the inner openings, wood glue, and some wood will make you a good plinth.
 
I wonder if anyone has tried urethane rubber for the drive wheels, I wonder if it would reduce drive noise.

As far as the plinth, some clamps, a router to cut out the inner openings, wood glue, and some wood will make you a good plinth.


Abe’s idlers (laherbau) are delrin with “rubber band(s)”

My observations indicate that this combo is very effective in overall noise reduction....

VR
Andy
 
I don't think there was such a thing as a "factory setting" for the set screw that's analogous to a spark plug gap setting in a car engine.

When I started messing with these turntables, there was hardly any information available on the internet, so I had to experiment and that's how I discovered how it functions. These are fine tuning adjustments to get the most from a mechanical design.

If I were in your shoes, I'd adjust it to work with the old idler wheels. Getting new ones from laherbau doesn't guarantee that the present settings will be optimal. Might as well get a head start with tuning. Anyway, the reason for getting new idler wheels is mostly for quiet performance. - fresh rubber + new bearings = less vibration and noise transmitted

Truth be told, I had to adjust those screws for all these three idler wheels when I did the ROK Tips redux article update. I also did the same for the laherbau which I got at a later date. Thanks to Andy's recommendation, they are good!

Well I did get new idler wheels from laherbau. They are well made and very nice quality. They are only very slightly larger diameter than the original idlers on my turntable. I may still need to adjust it a tad. You were right, I could have used the original, but I wanted to make it as quiet as possible and it now has new rubber mounts and new idler wheels. It seems to run very quietly. Guess I have no excuse to not get started on building the plinth to replace the milk crate I currently have it sitting. I have not mounted the tone arm yet, but plan to this week and take it for a test drive.
 
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