Rek-O-Kut Rondine Jr. L-37 Restoration Begins.

[Brett a]

Since we all like pictures.

You can see in this photo the right speaker is in the foreground, the ROK is way over between the couch and the chair. It has a 20 foot set of cables delivering the signal over to the system. When I build the new plinth, I'll make it small enough to set it up with the rest of the system and avoid the long signal cables.

The Stanton 500 MKii

The Shure SC35c and ART DJii

A rear view of the Tributaries and grounding post.

 

[musichal]

Very interesting and well-documented thread, Brett. Nice job on the thread and the table. Will be following along, for sure.

 

[EsotericTT]

Freeing Bearings Of Old R-O-K S320

Only a few days ago I did most of what was suggested here. I use lot's of Ronsonal, and some 3-1 oil. Lots of dirty fluid dripped out. I thought I would have luck, but that unevenness of rotation persisted. On minute it is turning, the next, you feel resistance. I noticed that the bearing assembly had no play what-so-ever. There was no looseness. It was just too tight. After all that cleaning I thought of corrosion.

Finally last night, I realized that corrosion was softer than steel. Here is what I did. I grasped the bearing tube with one hand and the upper portion and pulled had while rotating the two in opposite directions. Yes, two half turns. Then back and forth for a few minutes. Then, I did the opposite. I pushed the two portions together and rotated the parts for a few minutes. I flushed one more time with Ronsonal. I repeated the pushing and pulling on the bearings, whilst rotating them. Finally, I squirted in some 3 & 1, wiped it all clean and it is like new.

I can feel just about a paper's thickness of play. I can give the assembly a flick and it spins freely for quite a bit. It is like new! I now have that arm tracking well with a GRADO at 1 gram. Give it a try.

Mike

 

[Brett a]

By "that arm" do you mean you also have an ROK S-120 arm? I ask because if you put a 1gram tracker on it, you're flirting with disaster!

 

[tunein4fun]

...did this thread simply die of natural causes..?
/Pete

 

[beatcomber]

...did this thread simply die of natural causes..?
/Pete

Is there some specific info you need?

Here's a thread I created for my L-34:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/started-making-a-plinth-for-my-rok-l-34.635857/

This is a good one too, if you have an early version with the square motor:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/inside-look-of-the-death-cube.653231/

 

[tunein4fun]

Thanks for the links. I was just wondering what happened to Brett's ROK project.

/Pete

 

[sabrefencer]

I just picked up a ROK L-37 with a ROK 160 tonearm. This is all mounted on a 3/8 plywood board out of an old console. For obvious reasons, I am interested in Brett a's PDF plans for the final plinth he made. Does anyone know if this is available? Also looking for current sources for motor isolation grommets and recommendation for idler wheel refurbishment. The arm I have is wired for mono and has a cartridge with two styli, one for 78s and one for LP's and a switch that rotates from the top of the headshell. For LP only with a modern cart, I will try to replace this with a standard ROK headshell. I am thinking of keeping the ROK arm mono. Rather than extending this already long (but amazingly informative) thread, please point me in the right direction, and I will start a new thread when i start the project. Thanks in advance to my fellow AKers.