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Rek-O-Kut Turntables - ROK

Andy, I think that would work as well. What would be really nice is if they sold Moglice in small sample kits. Mix and pour in, once it cures, as good as you can get.

BillWojo
 
Bill:

Your always thinking above my level, :thumbsup:

Im going to drop in a delrin ball bearing as a test, just to see how it performs…..
 
Couple more questions.

The t-43 seemed a little noisy after sitting for a little bit (3 weekes without use), so I switched to the new idlers I got from a seller on ebay. What is the proper lubrication to use on the spindles and felt pads on the idlers? Is there any lubrication that is supposed to go on the idler surface thay contacts the platter? Or lubrication that goes on the spindles from the motor that contacts the idler?

I also have a ceramic bearing that I will install and add a little more oil to the platter spindle cup.

Also, I will look at the thread on how to properly lubricate the Borg Death Cube as I think that may need to be done and replace the lord grommets.

And as always keep a look put for one of the other motors for comparison sake! ;)
 
There’s a few that say they experience a “dry start”, that is the spindle shaft losing its lubricant. My guess is that the lubricant in use is the cause but again that’s a guess….

No lubricant of any kind on the idler nor capstan.

Ceramic will certainly work well, you’ll get various opinions on it’s use, and I’m trying delrin “ball bearing” in place of the metal one. The results are excellent, but have no clue as to the service life.


VR
Andy
 
When the spindle shift ( circled in photo) contacts the idler bidler that is when the noise starts.

Do I need to oil that internally somehow?

I have some 3 in one motor oil, would I use that to oil the spindle somehow?
 

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That’s the capstan circled in red, too much pressure will cause noise, best adjustment is just enough pressure to stop slipping while maintaining speed.

Is there the same amount of noise regardless of the speed selection?
 
adnick said:
That’s the capstan circled in red, too much pressure will cause noise, best adjustment is just enough pressure to stop slipping while maintaining speed.

Is there the same amount of noise regardless of the speed selection?
Click to expand...

Yes, same amount of noise regardless of speed selection.
 
I’m assuming he knows how to lube the idlers, they have fiber (felt) washers underneath and on top, and the idler shaft is hollow with a hole in the middle. The photos are a bit deceiving, the idler shaft is 7/16” and the idlers are huge.

The platter has a 3/4” shaft and is the heaviest of any ROK 12” and there’s at least 1 inch of contact between the idler and the platter wall, it’s not going to ring. However a good mat is always necessary….


VR
Andy
 
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BillWojo said:
Hi Andy, sounds like they just drilled the casting and dropped a ball down in the point left by the drill. Since a ball should only make a tiny contact on the flat end of the spindle, what does the wear mark look like. Should only be a tiny speck at most. On the Russco tables it was a larger dot, that's because the ball is not perfectly centered on the shaft and is rotating around the top of the ball marking a small circle on the end of the spindle. I bet the ROK are no different.
That's were the flat Delrin bearing pad shines, it can be a few thousands or more off center and isn't going to make a difference. The exact center of the spindle flat will find it's own center on the pad. Lot's of loading area, as long as it's kept wet with oil should last dam near forever.
I doubt they left a lot of material in the bottom of the well to drill and tap for a setscrew. Probably need to machine a new part to replace the casting. Might be a worth while endeavor for someone building a super deluxe ROK.

BillWojo
Click to expand...

Bill:

Here’s a drawing of the shaft well from a ROK technology manual on the TR 12 & 43 tables, you’ll notice that your concept of how the did the machine work is spot on….

I’ve dropped a delrin “ball bearing” in one of mine and the results are fantastic, but have no clue about durability…..

@limberpine. You need this manual if you don’t already have it?
 
limberpine said:
Yes, the idler felt is nice and lubed up, so thats fine. But I did take the older idlers off and put new ones on.
Click to expand...

Thought they looked like replacement idlers…too much lube is as bad or maybe worse than not enough.

You understand how to adjust idlers pressure? I’m also assuming you’re idler is making full contact with the capstan?
 
adnick said:
Thought they looked like replacement idlers…too much lube is as bad or maybe worse than not enough.

You understand how to adjust idlers pressure? I’m also assuming you’re idler is making full contact with the capstan?
Click to expand...

I didnt add any lube to the flat pads that are on top of the idlers.

I do not fully understand how to adjust idler pressure and yes, the capstan is making full contact with the idler.
 
Each felt pad needs a few drops of oil, top and bottom.

Use a synthetic oil in my tables, it will prevent dry starts better than fossil oils, the manual specifies oil weight, but that can be varied a bit without detrimental effects.

The idler pressure is adjustable with the side screws on the shift lever housing, table needs to be running, and you’ll need a way to watch the speed, strongly recommend a strobe. The vertical set screws hold the horizontal set screws in place. Pressure is adjusted wit the horizontal screws on each side.

It can be adjusted by feel when one becomes accustomed to the process, just enough pressure to maintain speed is all that’s required, so start by screwing them in until there’s no contact, then slowly make contact.

You can download a manual from Vinyl Engine
 
I wouldn't use a ceramic ball. Ceramic is much harder that the steel shaft so guess where any wear will take place? The Garrard guys found this out much to their dismay.
Andy, I like the idea of the Delrin ball, like you I have no idea how long it will hold up but if you get a year out of it before it needs replacing, well, they are pretty cheap. Plus it really kills the noise.

BillWojo
 
BillWojo said:
I wouldn't use a ceramic ball. Ceramic is much harder that the steel shaft so guess where any wear will take place? The Garrard guys found this out much to their dismay.
Andy, I like the idea of the Delrin ball, like you I have no idea how long it will hold up but if you get a year out of it before it needs replacing, well, they are pretty cheap. Plus it really kills the noise.

BillWojo
Click to expand...

Ordered several in different sizes, put them in my ROK’s and my Fairchild, and of course, there’s already a delrin pad in the Russco;) Is there one in your Russco yet? :cool:
 
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