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Relay not clicking/engaging in a Marantz 2325

I'm not exactly sure what the pushbuttons on a 2325 look like, but for other Marantz receivers it may look like this, and the inside contacts like this.
You want to spray some Deoxit D5 into wherever you can find a crack in the housing to get some onto the contacts, then work the switch in/out many times to try to clear the oxidation. In particularly bad cases the contacts can be badly tarnished black and are difficult to clean without disassembly. Be careful not to overdo the spray, it can get a little messy and oily inside the switch if you spray too much. There is a way to remove the whole sliding plunger, but you risk losing some of the small springs and contacts in the process... do it at your own risk. There may be tutorials on AK on how to do this.

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Ok so I did make some progress today on the 2325. I got the phono board recapped as well as the PU01 board. I also replaced the tape monitor 1 button switch but to my disappointment it doesn’t seem to be working properly.

When im playing auxiliary and depress the “tape monitor 1” button, nothing happens and sound just keeps coming through from the auxiliary input. If I depress the “tape monitor 2” button while auxiliary is playing then the sound does stop cominbtg from the auxiliary input until I press it again so that it is in the “source” position. I tried hooking up my phone via auxilary cable to the “tape 1 in” and set the input selector to “tape 1” and did get sound. I also tried the same with “tape 2 in” and got sound as well. Then I tried setting the selector switch to auxiliary again while having my phone plugged into the “tape 1 in” and then depressing the tape monitor 1 button but got no sound. When I depressed “tape monitor 2” button I got the sound from “tape 1 in”. Then I plugged my phone into the “tape 2 in”, left the selector switch to auxiliary and depressed the “tape monitor 1” button and got no sound. I then depressed the “tape monitor 2” button and still got no sound, finally I depressed both the monitor buttons and did get sound coming from the “tape 2 in”. I’m totally lost as to what could be going on here.

Could the newly installed button switch be faulty? Do the switches maybe just need a good cleaning? Is something wired wrong internally? Maybe I accidentally broke a wire while working on the boards?
 
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I just found this thread and it explained the functions of the tape monitor switches. They don’t work like normal tape monitor switches, so it looks like my switches are working correctly, I was just not operating them correctly.
 
The Tape Monitor button selects between Tape 1 and Tape 2, then the Tape/Source button selects monitoring the tape.
If the button that you replaced is the Tape Monitor, there isn't much that can go wrong since it is only a DPDT type switch.
Good to hear you figured it out.
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From the Owner's Manual:
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Thought I’d drop in and give an update :cool:

Just finished the FM-MPX board and I gotta say that HAD to be the most difficult board so far. Wow, what a royal pain in the nether regions man. The wire wrapped posts make it impossible to get under the board with the desoldering/soldering tools, so I had to unsolder 4 of them to make the underside accessible. I was able to locate and get all the caps out on the first attempt which was a feat in itself considering that it can become somewhat of a guessing game trying to guess where the leads land on the other side of the board. It was also difficult maneuvering the desoldering gun in there, even with the nearby P-700 board removed but I managed. After getting all the old caps out, 17 in total, I soldered the 4 wire wrapped pins back in, screwed board back on, put P-700 back in and fired up on the DBT. Succes! FM sounds very nice. I am hoping the other two radio boards aren’t as much of a hassle as this one was. It was very intimidating and after starting it I took an almost two-week hiatus from it just due to how tricky it was. This was a major test of patience but I’m glad I pushed on through and completed it. I am very satisfied with the results thus far.
 
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So I finally finished installing all the components in the recap kit and even sprung for sparkos labs BA312 chip! Not sure if the sparko lab chip makes a difference but I read up on it and others seem to have had good experiences with it so I went for it. Now the only thing left to do is install a TRIAC and replace the bias trim resistors. The bias pots act very strangely and jump around a lot when I adjust them. Other than that it’s sounding excellent and am now thinking of building a wood case for it.

I’m really glad I got to experience this restoration especially since just a few weeks ago I happened to stumble upon another 2325 that was priced just right! So now I have one fully restored unit and one all original unit. Before I restore the new one I am going to try and get more familiar with my Teo scope and see if I can’t do some measurements to see how it is performing and how it compares to the restored unit! Should be interesting to calculate the different parameters to see how they compare to the original specs etc.
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Restored below, unrestored above. I need to replace that bulb on the restored one still but I can live with it for now.
 
I have a question regarding relay click time. Upon powerup, my 2325 takes about 9 seconds to click the relay on. Right before the big click I hear a very faint click, what could that faint click be? Also, is 9 seconds an acceptable amount of time for the relay to come in?
 
angelaudio said:
I have a question regarding relay click time. Upon powerup, my 2325 takes about 9 seconds to click the relay on. Right before the big click I hear a very faint click, what could that faint click be? Also, is 9 seconds an acceptable amount of time for the relay to come in?
Click to expand...
The 2325 has a relatively long wait for the relay to close, but we're talking 3-5 seconds max. You may be able to isolate whether the protection circuit is faulty, or if it is working correctly and one of the amps is causing the extended delay. Test by disconnecting one main amp using the 4 pin connector and see if the delay changes. Disconnect the second amp and test again. Does the relay close after 3-5 seconds with both amps disconnected? If there is still a long delay then the issue is with the protection circuit itself. I did not read the entire thread, did you rebuild the P800 power supply board too?
 
I timed it after reading your reply and the click comes at about 6 seconds. I had overestimated. Although I did rebuild the P800 p.s. board, there is still one old cap in there because the cap I got in the recap kit was of a different value than the one that was on my board. So instead of installing the new one I left the old one in. I need to get that cap replaced and then I can consider it fully recapped. Otherwise, that whole board was recapped and some transistors were also replaced. Is around 6 seconds still a little too long? If so I’ll go ahead and follow your suggested procedure. Thank you.
 
6 seconds seems a little slow but I measured 5 seconds on the 2325 I just tested. If you would like, let me know the location of the capacitor needed and PM me your shipping address and I'll send one to you.
 
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