• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Restoring a Pioneer PL-630 Turntable

Status
Not open for further replies.
update: it's running!!

hi guys,

- I've disassembled the unit, nothing strange, no loose wires, no sign of burned components
- checked the micro switches (by moving the mechanism by rotating the pulley by hand), they were switching as they should
- rotated the tonearm motor by hand, it moved but not really easy
- unsoldered one of the motor wires from the pcb and ran the motor of a adjustable dc supply, I had to increase the voltage to about 9V before it started moving.
- while running it made more noise than I would have expected so I put a very small drop of thin oil to the shaft at the front side, this lowered the sound level considerable and it also started running at a few volts.
- I reversed the voltage, no problem
- By now I thought why not try the auto mechanism, so I put the platter on and hit the 'start' button. The tonearm motor started moving and just went through the complete cycle without a problem!

Needless to say I'm very happy and will now start restoring the unit according to the instructions from Rich.

regards, Peter
 
Just acquired one of these beauties and everything is in order with it except for the suspension. Any ideas where I could get those rubber supports. The coils are ok and so are the screws, but the rubber is litterally destroyed or missing. Thanks a lot!
 
I just skimmed over the majority of this thread, and there were a couple of ways people had addressed the supports (I think you are meaning the dampers for the suspension?) One guy said that he used a silicon tape that only sticks to itself, and wrapped the springs. He said it could be purchased at a hardware store. Hope that helps!
 
PL -630 belt replacement

I just inherited one of these tables, and after reading the thread I was able to get the oxidized controls working again by using the 300 clicks trick. It appears though that the belt that performs the automatic functions is stretched out, as the table will work as a manual turntable, but not an automatic one. Is the belt an easy do-it-yourself fix? If so, do I access it from the bottom? If anyone knows the proper way to replace that belt, I would appreciate it.
 
vegasguy said:
I just inherited one of these tables, and after reading the thread I was able to get the oxidized controls working again by using the 300 clicks trick. It appears though that the belt that performs the automatic functions is stretched out, as the table will work as a manual turntable, but not an automatic one. Is the belt an easy do-it-yourself fix? If so, do I access it from the bottom? If anyone knows the proper way to replace that belt, I would appreciate it.
Click to expand...
My DIY section at the top of this thread contains the operation(s) and sources you need. If you only want to replace the belt, you may be able to replace the belt, only lifting up the plinth from the baseplate enough to access the belt. You have to be careful and may need 3 hands.

Good luck,
Rich P
 
real newbe here i have a pl-630 played with switches got speed worked out? when i put in auto push start arm lifts motor sound changes but arm dosn't move i had it apart lubed was going to change belt but got wrong one does anyone know how tight the plates for tonearm roller are supposed to be? mine were super tight i put some 3n1oil on it and worked it back n forth losend up some but not sure if it sould be real loose or tight?hope i can get it rite cleand roller off with alcohol drive belt didn't seem to loose sorry for so long a question and my typing and spelling are pretty bad.
 
Hi Rich,
I'm now having some freetime, doing everything step by step as you have listed here, i have 2 little questions at the moment.

1. I used some soft tubes and go round the spring as I couldn't find anything else suitable. The spring is now sitting tightly and good. Some pictures attached. Wonder if you have any comments on that.
spring11.jpg


2. The feet for the suspension, how much pressure is needed onto each sping specifically? Is there a rule I have to follow in the spring's suspension? The nut that screws onto the thread of the feet moves too easily.

3. I'm currently at the Tonearm Control Board, the part where you noted there is possible cracks at the pickup plate did indeed happen to mine. Any idea how to reinforce it?
pickup10.jpg
 
Hi all,
With Rich's excellent restoration guide I've almost got my inherited PL-630 back to working condition. I'm no tech so I didn't tackle the re-capping portion of the restoration, but instead focused on a general clean-up, lube and beautification program. The table is a thing of beauty and the automation of the tonearm is smooth, silent and elegant. One problem though - the tone arm won't return at the end of the record.
While doing my restore job, I did remove the tonearm drive assembly in order to clean & lube the tonearm lifter, and thought I put it back as I found it, but now I'm wondering. Does anyone have any feedback as to what could be the cause of this? Mechanically, this is the only thing I disassembled. I didn't touch the tonearm control board or the two microswitches for fear of damaging anything. So I guess my question is, is this a mechanical issue of a gear being out of place, or is his likely an electronic issue that needs a tech to diagnose and repair. On a side note, if the play/stop button is touched while a record is playing, it will not return the tonearm back to its rest and shut down, but does continue to play. So this appears to be a "return" problem, not an "end of record" problem. Any ideas?
 
terenceng said:
Hi Rich,
I'm now having some freetime, doing everything step by step as you have listed here, i have 2 little questions at the moment.

1. I used some soft tubes and go round the spring as I couldn't find anything else suitable. The spring is now sitting tightly and good. Some pictures attached. Wonder if you have any comments on that.
spring11.jpg


2. The feet for the suspension, how much pressure is needed onto each sping specifically? Is there a rule I have to follow in the spring's suspension? The nut that screws onto the thread of the feet moves too easily.

3. I'm currently at the Tonearm Control Board, the part where you noted there is possible cracks at the pickup plate did indeed happen to mine. Any idea how to reinforce it?
pickup10.jpg
Click to expand...
The rubber is not needed to hold the feet on. It provides a damping function, keeping the springs from oscillating. If you don't use the original rubber, you can use upholstery foam, impregnated with sewing machine oil, cut in a strip and coiled into the spring to provide the damping. Anything else will be too stiff and hinder the suspension form doing its job correctly.

For the cracked plate assy, you need to band the part with a thin metal. If your setscrew is an allen, you can drill a tiny hole above the setscrew for a #2 self-threading screw to hold the band together. If you have the newer phillips setscrew, you can use the setscrew to hold the band together. The band should be made of very thin metal, like an old eraser mask (drafting supplies). Cut it in the proper width and length with tin-snips, and form it around tightly. The band overlaps on the setscrew face of the assy. Drill the holes in the band for a tight band and install. If done right it is better than new.

Auto functions are governed by the "Auto" switch. If off, no auto functions are active. If on, then it should detect the end of the LP. If the unit places the stylus properly in the first groove, but does not detect the end of the LP, you have a problem that will be more complex to diagnose. I do not have time, right now, to remotely guide you in this area. Tonearm positioning is governed optically, by a light source, a photocell, and the metal plate on the cracked pickup plate. The pickup plate must be properly positioned, rotationally, for proper tonearm positioning and end detection.

Good luck,
Rich P
 
Last edited:
I've finished almost everything, trying to get the turntable to work. wanted to make sure it works before i fit back in the top plates and plinth only to notice that when i bring the tonearm close to the platter, the motor wont turn (didn't had this problem before and i don't think i messed up anywhere, probably something out of alignment but I'm not sure which part). All other switches and everything else including the lifter is working. Thanks
 
PL630 Turntable

Even though your post is very well documented and no doubt you are fully competent, I would not attempt to dismantle my PL630. I bout this new in Wuerzburg, Germany while serving in the US military. It is still in great physical shape, but the Quartz lock wanders one pressed. Ball park, how much would it cost me to get this fixed/reconditioned?
 
:lurk:

I own one of these and needed to bookmark this thread. Great, great info. Thanks.

S.J.
 
Update!

Took my PL-630 into to tech here in town to see what could be done to get the auto-return function to work. After going through the table he found that a previous tech had been inside the table and had attempted to repair the PM6001 chip that helps to control the tonearm and tried to modify the circuit board it sits on. Evidently, the modification did not go well. At any rate, it looks like I need a new chip / board in order to return he table to its original state. I've looked online for a replacement board, but no luck. Does anyone out there have a parts unit?
 
Remarkably similar dismantling procedure to the Technics SL1600mk2 and I thought that one was a bastard.

I'm pretty sure I have some of those spring boots pulled from Pioneer TTs in my box of tricks.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom