merrylander
AK Member
I will tomorrow in a seperate thread.
Reveneering cabs ~ add or subtract value?
- Thread starter MikeCh
- Start date
I will tomorrow in a seperate thread.
merrylander
AK Member
Mark the pictures are in the General Off Topic forum.
influx
Electronica Rehabilitatus
Merrylander,
Perhaps the previous owner was trying to restore the set to its original splendor. Colonial era furniture was often painted vibrant shades of reds, blues, greens and black. Paint was expensive and it was a sign of status to have the funds to waste it on household items. It was also very European and wealthy colonial merchants aspired to be seen as continental :tresbon:.
Anyhow 23" inches of prime american cherry is a fine board indeed and should be enjoyed unpainted!
Elfasto
Super Member
As far as I'm concerned, if you like the items that you want to reveneer, then do it. That is exactly what I'm doing with my Reynolds Advance A2's. Removing the vinyl (yuck) woodgrain and reveneering them. Haven't decided on the veneer yet, but since I have alot of Red Oak veneer sitting around....
If they are valuable to you, and you are going to keep them for a while, then one might as well make them look nice.
If they are valuable to you, and you are going to keep them for a while, then one might as well make them look nice.
winters860
Super Member
Mike
I'm in the middle of restoring a pair of early 3as much like yours, but maybe not starting off in as good a condition.
Like it or not, the premium-priced AR-3a are all in original unmolested opinion. Even though basic restoration seems like a no-brainer, the deep-pocked collectors are looking for 100% original speakers. If you're re-veneering, you're doing it strictly for yourself, rather than having any hope of re-couping your investment of time and money. A restored and attractive pair of 3a should be worth at least a couple-three hundred bucks, though, just from a utility standpoint.
My cabs had been stored in a damp place and the corners were starting to separate. I've routed out the edges of the cabinets on mine and am gluing in strips of solid walnut. It will be covered by veneer and invisible, except from the back. I figure the collector value's already shot at that point, so I'm completely replacing/upgrading the crossover and terminal plate, re-using only the original coils. Veneer will probably be mahogany, walnut, or cherry.
I'm limiting myself to those wood choices because PSA veneer is readily available in them in both 2'x8' and 2" edgeband configurations - this will let me use a single large piece of veneer for the top, bottom, and sides of both my AR-3a. The edgebanding will be used on the front.
If you're setting about restoring them, the recently released document "Restoring the AR-3a", hosted over on Classic Speaker Pages, is an absolute necessity.
Damn, I'd better like the way they sound.
I'm in the middle of restoring a pair of early 3as much like yours, but maybe not starting off in as good a condition.
Like it or not, the premium-priced AR-3a are all in original unmolested opinion. Even though basic restoration seems like a no-brainer, the deep-pocked collectors are looking for 100% original speakers. If you're re-veneering, you're doing it strictly for yourself, rather than having any hope of re-couping your investment of time and money. A restored and attractive pair of 3a should be worth at least a couple-three hundred bucks, though, just from a utility standpoint.
My cabs had been stored in a damp place and the corners were starting to separate. I've routed out the edges of the cabinets on mine and am gluing in strips of solid walnut. It will be covered by veneer and invisible, except from the back. I figure the collector value's already shot at that point, so I'm completely replacing/upgrading the crossover and terminal plate, re-using only the original coils. Veneer will probably be mahogany, walnut, or cherry.
I'm limiting myself to those wood choices because PSA veneer is readily available in them in both 2'x8' and 2" edgeband configurations - this will let me use a single large piece of veneer for the top, bottom, and sides of both my AR-3a. The edgebanding will be used on the front.
If you're setting about restoring them, the recently released document "Restoring the AR-3a", hosted over on Classic Speaker Pages, is an absolute necessity.
Damn, I'd better like the way they sound.
merrylander
AK Member
My father was an amateur cabinetmaker, amateur only because that was not how he earned his living. He built a beautiful oak cabinet for a neighbor to house his Victrola. One day as he was passing, the neighbor called him in, all excited about the marvelous change he had made in the cabinet - he had painted it chinese red. Dad never built anything for anyone after that. Believe me the green paint on these chairs was shutter green, not a valued milk paint finish.
JohnG
Active Member
OMG
What was his immediate reaction? Was he polite or did ream him out or what???
I would think that a nicely veneered EPI 100V would be quite desirable.
MikeCh
Super Member
That sounds like a great solution to the problem. As I get along with this project, I might ask you to share a few pics if in fact I'll need to do the same or similar. I commend you for such ingenuity!
I haven't measured, but if 2" edgeband can be procured, that sure sounds like another great idea. I'd been wondering myself how I was going to get those front faces covered. :scratch2:
I did snag a copy of the restore .pdf and agree it's chalk full of info that ar3a restorers would need.
Thanks again for sharing your progress and solutions, it will come in real handy. I hope to someday repay (with info or insight) the fine folks such as yourself here on AK that are always so helpful :thmbsp:
Take care,
Mike
