Audioraven
Well-Known Member
INX RubberKleen works really well.
I'm a biochemist, certainly no expert on rubber, but I will say there are huge differences biochemically between monoterpenes and aromatic hydrocarbons.
INX RubberKleen works really well.
For softening rubber? Huh. The MSDS shows a combination of toluene, unspecified hydrocarbon solvents (including the obligatory Prop 65 warning for benzene), denatured alcohol (ethanol + methanol), and ethyl acetate (common acetone substitute, such as in nail-polish remover). That should remove pretty much anything on the surface, but it's not going to rejuvenate since it doesn't leave behind a plasticizer. I expect it attacks the surface a little bit, roughening it so it better grabs, like on wide belts.
Seems to be for printing plants. I don't think it would be a long-term solution for idler wheels or pinch rollers. A lot of those solvents will pull plasticizers out of the rubber, worsening the hardeness.
Years ago I asked a copier repair tech what was used for the big laserprinters and copiers and the answer was either Fedron or something nearly identical. I took one look at the ingredient list (glycol ethers and other nastiness) and decided to instead purchase new rollers. Which was the right answer. (I don't know what the lifespan of repair techs is, but it surely cannot be that good.) Jams instantly stopped.
I well remember the stink of the volatile solvents used for cleaning the presses and conveyor belts from whenever I went to the printers to verify proofs before the full run began. The sweet smell of cancer and neurological deterioration. I don't think slathering solvents on equipment like that would be today permitted.
For softening rubber? Huh. The MSDS shows a combination of toluene, unspecified hydrocarbon solvents (including the obligatory Prop 65 warning for benzene), denatured alcohol (ethanol + methanol), and ethyl acetate (common acetone substitute, such as in nail-polish remover). That should remove pretty much anything on the surface, but it's not going to rejuvenate since it doesn't leave behind a plasticizer. I expect it attacks the surface a little bit, roughening it so it better grabs, like on wide belts.
I'm no chemist, all I know is I used it on 4 hardened R2R pinch rollers 5 years ago and they are still good today. YMMV.
I would think there may be a possibility that the organic solvents help re-distribute the endogenous plasticizers (most are oil-based I believe). This would give a previously dry surface a softening effect. That said, old rollers are probably best replaced.
PB blaster should be experimented with. I swelled a idler tire to unusable condition once, so it does something.Toluene should be used with caution also. Wiped a turntable belt with it to deglaze, and it instantly grew in length.
I wonder if DOT 3 brake fluid would help? I've never tried it, but I've seen car people use it to make rubber hoses and stuff look nicer under the hood.
Non-crosslinked, such as non-vulcanized, rubber readily dissolves in toluene; this is called "rubber cement" or "surround dopant".
PB Blaster is mostly deodorized kerosone and other solvents but no plasticizer.
Once the solvent evaporates the rubber should return to its normal size and properties.
Are you familiar with PB Blaster? Says right on the can it renews O-rings.
You're old enough to remember whitewalls, I think. Nowadays silicones are used as these are longer lasting.
A search for "Bletchley’s Bleach Wite" turns up absolutely nothing.
Not to be contentious, but why do you say kerosene "also known as" naphtha?Maybe so, but consider the ingredients.
Alkyloxy Polyethylene Oxyethanol 0 - 3%
Solvent Naphtha Heavy Aromatic 40 - 50%
Heavy Petroleum Distillate 20 - 30%
Hydrotreated Light Distillate 30 - 40%
The Alkyloxy Polyethylene Oxyethanol is a surfactant, which lowers the surface tension and assists in cleaning, much like a detergent. Hydrotreated Light Distillate is the lighter fraction of kerosene aka naptha, which is a mix of petroleum distillates. The approximate boiling point of the hydrocarbon mix is indicated by the terms "light" (C4 to C9), "medium" (C8 to C13), and "heavy" (C8 to C23+). So what the ingredients indicate is a mix of short to long hydrocarbons. Basically the unrefined early evaporating distillates.
This will not be superior to any of the products specifically designed for rubber rejuvenation using methyl salicylate? It's just solvent that swells the o-ring which is not exactly the same as making it more pliable.
Any rejuvenation effect likely works as phantomrebel suggested by pulling plasticizer out of the interior and redistributing.
It likely also breaks certain crosslinked bonds on the surface, which makes the material more pliable.
Any of the non-chlorinated solvent paint removers work this way. The solvent diffuses into the paint, and crosslinked bonds are swelled which breaks them, softening the paint so it can be removed. I've used CitriStrip (on paint) and it works, just takes a while and may require a few applications to break all the bonds. The paint, which was large molecules, is now smaller ones.
Edit: clarified use of CitriStrip and paint strippers.
Westley's Bleche-Wite (SIC) is the stuff. I have no idea whats in it, and too lazy to look right now. Its been around for a long time as a tire cleaning product.
I'll try the xylene and wintergreen oil next time I have a slightly slippy record changer idler though. Thanks for the tip.
Westley's Bleche-Wite (SIC) is the stuff. I have no idea whats in it, and too lazy to look right now. Its been around for a long time as a tire cleaning product.
Not to be contentious, but why do you say kerosene "also known as" naphtha?
But I would exercise extreme caution over using any of these discussed treatments on a pinch roller in a magnetic tape machine. The primary participants are discussing it in a complete vacuum, without regard to the operational environment. These rollers directly contact the oxide-coated side of the tape media.
Absolutely zero consideration has been given to the subsequent leeching effects of these solvent-based chemicals on the polymer oxide binders used on magnetic tape media. None. Especially with older media of any archival value, you proceed at your risk using any of these solvent-based treatments anywhere near magnetic tape.
And if they seep into the capstan bearing, its permanent lubrication charge could be attacked.
The old-time product we used to use was a water-based highly dilute trisodium phosphate solution that only provided a temporary topical treatment until new parts could be sourced. But more importantly, it could be fully rinsed from the parts without exposing the tape media to potentially destructive chemical residues. I do not believe that these synthetic rubber parts can ever be 'rejuvenated' or restored fully, but I know later users are now resorting to more adventuresome methods due to parts unavailability.