Russco Cue Master build

[Blackdog61]

Thanks for posting the info from the Russco manual.
Getting the capstan perfectly centered was very time consuming and frustrating, but very important. I was fortunate to have an original idler wheel which runs true. It was a bit hard and a few days in brake fluid did wonders to renew it. Idler rumble is inaudible at any reasonable volume and the speed is near 33.3.

 

[Jukin Jay]

I did have the other one running close to 33.3 for a few minutes before it stopped. I could possibly change capstans and/or platters to see if that helps. Same wheel on both.

The platters are matched to the bearing wells at the factory, so swapping platters may throw another variable into the mix depending on how close the tolerances are.

 

[Blackdog61]

The platters are matched to the bearing wells at the factory, so swapping platters may throw another variable into the mix depending on how close the tolerances are.

I’m done with this turntable.

 

[Blackdog61]

Long tonearm for Russco

It’s time to take the next step and mount a longer arm across the back of this thing for two reasons. 1) I’m still getting a bit of motor hum which may be caused in part by the cartridge’s proximity to the motor. 2) I would like to put a mono cartridge on the Syntec and move the DL-103 to the...

audiokarma.org

 

[adnick]

Long tonearm for Russco

It’s time to take the next step and mount a longer arm across the back of this thing for two reasons. 1) I’m still getting a bit of motor hum which may be caused in part by the cartridge’s proximity to the motor. 2) I would like to put a mono cartridge on the Syntec and move the DL-103 to the...

audiokarma.org

Sounds like a good plan

 

[Blackdog61]

To update things here, I have enjoyed the ATP-12T for about two weeks. It certainly gets more out of the 103. I fashioned an armrest and lift which is explained in this thread.

Audio technica ATP-12T Tonearm

Yep, along with a bracket to hold a Jelco arm lifter I replaced the original ATP-12T arm rest with one from a Technics 1200MK2. With a drill bit by hand I carefully enlarged the hole to accept a 3/16" rod. The AT arm tube is slightly larger than the Technics so I used a sharp exacto to shave...

audiokarma.org

Curious to try the delrin idler wheel, I put it on and got good speed and Wow……..for a few minutes. Barely into the second side of a Herbie Hancock/Chick Corea live recording, the pitch wavered badly. The bushing in the wheel was completely loose! I’m not surprised that he simply press fit it, but…….. After a good cleaning with IPA I glued it with a drop of CA and put it back together. not Half bad.

 

[anchorman]

You’ve probably sorted this part out already (I didn’t read the whole thread), but SAE 10 oil is what you want for a motor like this. Spindle oil for a machine tool, sewing machine oil, that zoom spout SAE 10 oil, all are good. 3 in 1 gets gummy over time in my experience. I reserve it’s use for when I want to feel nostalgic about my grandfather, who was always covered in the stuff.

 

[anchorman]

Also, I was wondering if you have a good measuring tools, as I’d like to try to make a 3 speed idler for my Russco studio pro B. I think I can make an aluminum plate to match what the 3 speed models have… not sure if there are other things that would need to change.

If you can measure the height of each step on the shaft, I would appreciate it! I’m guessing I can work out the diameter based on the sizes of the existing shaft for 33 and 45 rpm.

Is there somewhere that sells parts like the aluminum plate and the motor spindle? I have a newish rubber idler already.

 

[Blackdog61]

Also, I was wondering if you have a good measuring tools, as I’d like to try to make a 3 speed idler for my Russco studio pro B. I think I can make an aluminum plate to match what the 3 speed models have… not sure if there are other things that would need to change.

If you can measure the height of each step on the shaft, I would appreciate it! I’m guessing I can work out the diameter based on the sizes of the existing shaft for 33 and 45 rpm.

Is there somewhere that sells parts like the aluminum plate and the motor spindle? I have a newish rubber idler already.

I don’t have a digital caliper that would be precise enough for duplicating a capstan. Hopefully someone can help.
Your experience with oil aligns with mine. SAE 10.

 

[anchorman]

I don’t have a digital caliper that would be precise enough for duplicating a capstan. Hopefully someone can help.
Your experience with oil aligns with mine. SAE 10.

From what I can tell from pictures, it looks like the height of the 3position capstan is about the same, but divided up with one more step. The front plate for the shift knob seems to have the top and bottom slots slightly closer to the edge, so maybe the capstan is slightly taller. It looks like they added a screw to the adjustment slot, also, but otherwise the chassis are close enough to the same…

 

[anchorman]

From what I can tell from pictures, it looks like the height of the 3position capstan is about the same, but divided up with one more step. The front plate for the shift knob seems to have the top and bottom slots slightly closer to the edge, so maybe the capstan is slightly taller. It looks like they added a screw to the adjustment slot, also, but otherwise the chassis are close enough to the same…

I’m tempted to make the capstan slightly undersized and then see if I can use a VFD to speed up the motor a bit in order to have a little speed adjustment capability. 78 rpm record speeds were all over the place at one point, so it would be nice to be able to adjust the speed more easily.

 

[adnick]

I’m tempted to make the capstan slightly undersized and then see if I can use a VFD to speed up the motor a bit in order to have a little speed adjustment capability. 78 rpm record speeds were all over the place at one point, so it would be nice to be able to adjust the speed more easily.

In my experience you’d be much better off building voltage/frequency control than trying to mechanically change Studio Pro….

VR
Andy

 

[Blackdog61]

I haven’t updated this but it’s made me very happy. The silicone motor mounts have about finished it.

 

[Blackdog61]

Just to update and continue the Russco love…….. Granted, I don’t have much experience with turntables considered to be truly high end, but this thing amazes me.
I recently stripped it down to rattle can some grey hammer tone paint and it looks much better than it did with the dull grey powder coat it came with. In the process, one of the silicone motor mounts tore so I went back to the Lloyds I purchased last year. There’s nothing wrong with the stock mounts. I also changed the oil from 30W to a lighter and very clear vacuum pump oil. After carefully grounding things this turntable is dead quiet. A stethoscope to the plinth reveals no rumble or mechanical noise. The music comes out of a black background and sounds beautiful.
I see people play with these old Russcos and often give up. Maybe the Garrard 301 and Thorens 124 are significantly better, but it’s hard to imagine. My hot rodded AR XA sits in embarrassment, having been severely trounced. The investment in arms and cartridges on this is more than 10x what I have in the turntable itself. Don’t sleep on these.

 

[JimneyWood]

Hey, I just bought myself a Cue Master and going through a lot of the same mods you have made. I was wondering if you could tell me the OD of your idler wheel. I bought some 2.81 Orings from mcmaster and 3d printed a hub that fits around the original aluminum pulley. The fit is a little snug so I want to dial in my tolerances. Any help is greatly appreciated.

-Jim

 

[Blackdog61]

The original wheel measures 2.79” OD and 5/16” thick. My understanding is that this dimension isn’t critical; the capstan dialer determines speed. Curious to see what you come up with.

 

[JimneyWood]

Thanks for getting back to me! I’m
Combing all the forums for any tidbits of info. I just ordered new oilites from Mcmaster. Going to print new idler hubs to work with the square orings. I’ll definitely keep you apprised of the results.

I also had some success designing and printing a replica of the idler arm. Carbon fiber PLA. Very stiff.

-Jim

 

[KentTeffeteller]

Also, I was wondering if you have a good measuring tools, as I’d like to try to make a 3 speed idler for my Russco studio pro B. I think I can make an aluminum plate to match what the 3 speed models have… not sure if there are other things that would need to change.

If you can measure the height of each step on the shaft, I would appreciate it! I’m guessing I can work out the diameter based on the sizes of the existing shaft for 33 and 45 rpm.

Is there somewhere that sells parts like the aluminum plate and the motor spindle? I have a newish rubber idler already.

Studio Pro B is 2 speed for a reason. Want a Russco with 3 speeds, buy a Cue-Master (they're designed for it)

 

[adnick]

Thanks for getting back to me! I’m
Combing all the forums for any tidbits of info. I just ordered new oilites from Mcmaster. Going to print new idler hubs to work with the square orings. I’ll definitely keep you apprised of the results.

I also had some success designing and printing a replica of the idler arm. Carbon fiber PLA. Very stiff.

-Jim

I’ve tried a Delrin idler with a Delrin bushing and it was noisy compared to a Delrin idler with an oilite bronze bushing, was told that would be the case but I’m stubborn

Using a carbon fiber idler arm should pay off, but changing a Pro B to a Cuemaster wouldn’t be one of the options I’d consider, too many cuemasters available, plus if you’re set on 78 rpm a electronic controller would be a better option, all speeds co then be dialed in…..

VR
Andy

 

[JimneyWood]

Andy,

What are the big differences in the Pro vs Cue?my plan is to eventually add a second idler for a mixing desk. There is a fellow out here on FBM selling a ProB for around 600 bucks “refurbished throughout.” I’m out less than 300 on the Cue so far. I’m wondering with all the mods you folks have tested and implemented these can be made to perform similarly.

-Jim