SA-8800 Refurb Starting In 3, 2...

[Gary D Olson]

Greetings Pioneer lovers.

My main amplification in rotation these days comes via Luxman R-117, Yamaha C70/M70, Marantz 2330B, and a Pioneer SX-1250 on indefinite loan from a client.

Several months back, I purchased an SA-8800 off ebay without its top cover for $200. After a thorough controls cleaning & lube with Deoxit and several days of run-in, I found its sound a bit on the side of disappointing. Good, but nothing close to the "great sound" I'd read so many times before about this amp; slightly hot between say 6kHz-10kHz and with a tiny bit of distortion at moderate and above volumes, even with efficient speakers. I gave it a few weeks to improve but it didn't and it's been sitting in my garage ever since.

I've been kicking around the idea of attempting a recap/restoration despite a complete lack of experience. The plan was to use either an old Akai AA-1135 or Marantz MR235 I have lying around to get my toes in the water. But yesterday I did something crazy. I opened an account at mouser.com & ordered parts for the SA-8800! What the heck was I thinking? Oh, I know. A fully restored SA-8800 would be much better and very usable indeed. My order was based on the list below found in AK's database, and I bought everything on it. The actual order is at bottom. I'll shoot some photos later and keep you informed when the parts are here and work begins.

So... just how stupid am I?



EQ Assembly (GWF-113)
GWF-113: C3: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWF-113: C4: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWF-113: C5: 22uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V220MDD 22uF 35v
GWF-113: C6: 22uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V220MDD 22uF 35v
GWF-113: C7: 22uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V220MDD 22uF 35v
GWF-113: C8: 22uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V220MDD 22uF 35v
GWF-113: C19: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
GWF-113: C20: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
GWF-113: C21: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
GWF-113: C22: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
GWF-113: C29: 4.7uF 25v Non Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWF-113: C30: 4.7uF 25v Non Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWF-113: C31: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
GWF-113: C32: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
GWF-113: C35: 2200uF 6.8v Non-Polar: 647-UVP1A222MHD 2200uF 10v
GWF-113: C36: 2200uF 6.8v Non-Polar: 647-UVP1A222MHD 2200uF 10v


TC Assembly (GWG-122)
GWG-122: C7: 1uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H010MDD 1uF 50v
GWG-122: C8: 1uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H010MDD 1uF 50v
GWG-122: C9: 10uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
GWG-122: C10: 10uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
GWG-122: C19: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWG-122: C20: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWG-122: C57: 22uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
GWG-122: C58: 22uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v


PA Assembly (GWH-115)
GWH-115: C31: 47uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
GWH-115: C32: 47uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
GWH-115: C33: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWH-115: C34: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v


Indicator Assembly (AWV-001)
AWV-001: C3: 1uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H010MDD 1uF 50v
AWV-001: C4: 1uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H010MDD 1uF 50v
AWV-001: C5: 2.2uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H2R2MDD 2.2uF 50v
AWV-001: C6: 2.2uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H2R2MDD 2.2uF 50v
AWV-001: C9: 47uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v
AWV-001: C10: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v
AWV-001: C11: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWV-001: C12: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v
AWV-001: C13: 2.2uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H2R2MDD 2.2uF 50v


Power Supply Assembly (AWR-182)
AWR-182: C9: 220uF 80v CEA: 647-UHE2A221MHD 220uF 100v
AWR-182: C10: 220uF 80v CEA: 647-UHE2A221MHD 220uF 100v
AWR-182: C13: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
AWR-182: C14: 47uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
AWR-182: C15: 47uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
AWR-182: C18: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-182: C19: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-182: C22: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWR-182: C23: 1uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A010MDD 1uF 100v
AWR-182: C24: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWR-182: C25: 470uF 6.8v Non-Polar: 647-UES1C471MHM 470uF 16v


BOM List
647-UPW1A101MDD6 | 5
647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA | 1
647-UPW1H470MED | 5
647-UPW1H010MDD | 4
647-UEP1V4R7MDD | 8
647-UPW1E101MED | 1
647-UKL1E100KDDANA | 2
647-UPW1V220MDD | 4
647-UKL1V220KEDANA | 2
647-UVP1A222MHD | 2
647-UPW1J470MPD | 4
647-UPW2A010MDD | 1
647-UPW1E470MDD | 3
647-UPW1H2R2MDD | 3
647-UHE2A221MHD | 2
647-UES1C471MHM | 1



Shipment Notification
Order Date : 25-NOV-15
Customer Number : 1747823
Purchase Order Number : 9575629
Ship Date : 25-NOV-15
Estimated Arrival Date : 03-DEC-15


1

1
647-UES1C471MHM
MFG Part No:UES1C471MHM
UES1C471MHM
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:JP 1 1
2

1
647-UPW1E101MED
MFG Part No:UPW1E101MED
UPW1E101MED
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 2 2
3

1
647-UPW2A010MDD
MFG Part No:UPW2A010MDD
UPW2A010MDD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 1 1
4

1
647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA
MFG Part No:UKL1H2R2KDDANA
UKL1H2R2KDDANA
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 1 1
5

1
647-UHE2A221MHD
MFG Part No:UHE2A221MHD
UHE2A221MHD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:JP 2 2
6

1
647-UPW1E470MDD
MFG Part No:UPW1E470MDD
UPW1E470MDD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 3 3
7

1
647-UPW1H2R2MDD
MFG Part No:UPW1H2R2MDD
UPW1H2R2MDD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 3 3
8

1
647-UPW1J470MPD
MFG Part No:UPW1J470MPD
UPW1J470MPD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 4 4
9

1
647-UKL1V220KEDANA
MFG Part No:UKL1V220KEDANA
UKL1V220KEDANA
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 2 2
10

1
647-UKL1E100KDDANA
MFG Part No:UKL1E100KDDANA
UKL1E100KDDANA
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 2 2
11

1
647-UPW1H010MDD
MFG Part No:UPW1H010MDD
UPW1H010MDD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 4 4
12

1
647-UVP1A222MHD
MFG Part No:UVP1A222MHD
UVP1A222MHD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 2 0
13

1
647-UPW1H470MED
MFG Part No:UPW1H470MED
UPW1H470MED
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 5 5
14

1
647-UPW1A101MDD6
MFG Part No:UPW1A101MDD6
UPW1A101MDD6
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:JP 5 5
15

1
647-UEP1V4R7MDD
MFG Part No:UEP1V4R7MDD
UEP1V4R7MDD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 8 8
16

1
647-UPW1V220MDD
MFG Part No:UPW1V220MDD
UPW1V220MDD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
US HTS:8532220020 ECCN:EAR99 COO:MY 4 4
1RoHS: Compliant
http://www.mouser.com/contact/

 

[slayer44]

Good luck with the rebuild! My advice as a newbie who started by jumping right in without checking the water would be to practice on some similar boards BEFORE tearing into this beauty. It would serve you greatly to find out what the potential problems and stubborn parts are going to do to your sanity. If you find you are in over your head, ASK the professionals on this site first. Also, photo document as much as you can so you remember what you took apart. Have fun and take notes.

 

[Gary D Olson]

Good luck with the rebuild! My advice as a newbie who started by jumping right in without checking the water would be to practice on some similar boards BEFORE tearing into this beauty. It would serve you greatly to find out what the potential problems and stubborn parts are going to do to your sanity. If you find you are in over your head, ASK the professionals on this site first. Also, photo document as much as you can so you remember what you took apart. Have fun and take notes.

Thanks for the response slayer44.

 

[Gary D Olson]

I just received all but GWF-113: C35: 2200uF 6.8v Non-Polar: 647-UVP1A222MHD 2200uF 10v (for the EQ assembly) as Mouser is out of stock. Should I wait or skip the cap?

 

[petehall347]

whilst you at it change the bias and offset trimmers . and report back before touching them and applying mains power .

 

[Gary D Olson]

whilst you at it change the bias and offset trimmers . and report back before touching them and applying mains power .

Pete,

I'd love to replace the old trim pots but can't find the part numbers for them. If you happen to have this information I would be much obliged.

Gary

 

[rcs16]

Well you are a stup if you double post and you screw it up. Read the posts where people have dug a hole with good intentions. There is lots of how not to do things in this forum.
Start with the simple stuff like the indicator or phono eq. I know the ps should be done first but it might not be the easiest one to do.
Yes start with another unit which is less prized, so if you screw it up, you won't be crying as bad.

I just received all but GWF-113: C35: 2200uF 6.8v Non-Polar: 647-UVP1A222MHD 2200uF 10v (for the EQ assembly) as Mouser is out of stock. Should I wait or skip the cap?

Another one, you should have asked for another sub, lets see
the idea is to do a search based on the device characteristics, so I get.
http://ca.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...0wm45Z1z0wqsyZ1z0wrjsZ1z0yoh9Z1z0x6esZ1z0x6ed
You know you are in the ball park when you see the one that are trying to sub in the list. So you ordered something that is non-stocked.

for this one being important and Mouser not having a sub with the same or better specs, I would have bought this one or all my parts from digikey instead
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/UVP1A222MHD1TN/493-12674-1-ND/4328291

 

[Gary D Olson]

Well you are a stup if you double post and you screw it up. Read the posts where people have dug a hole with good intentions. There is lots of how not to do things in this forum.
Start with the simple stuff like the indicator or phono eq. I know the ps should be done first but it might not be the easiest one to do.
Yes start with another unit which is less prized, so if you screw it up, you won't be crying as bad.

Another one, you should have asked for another sub, lets see
the idea is to do a search based on the device characteristics, so I get.
http://ca.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...0wm45Z1z0wqsyZ1z0wrjsZ1z0yoh9Z1z0x6esZ1z0x6ed
You know you are in the ball park when you see the one that are trying to sub in the list. So you ordered something that is non-stocked.

for this one being important and Mouser not having a sub with the same or better specs, I would have bought this one or all my parts from digikey instead
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/UVP1A222MHD1TN/493-12674-1-ND/4328291

Message received about double posting. My apologies. I was unaware of the required etiquette but on reflection it makes sense to keep it all in a single post.

I'll order the digikey part you suggested and begin with the indicator board, also as you suggested.

It seems Pioneer decided to chain most or all boards together not by connections which could be easily unplugged at one end but by wire wrapped around pins at BOTH ends of the wire. Not very service friendly imho. I'm loath to undo these wrapped connections yet it looks like some boards will be difficult to impossible to even access without disconnecting one or more of them. What is the preferred method?

And before I begin, is there anything else in the SA-8800 that usually requires being refurbished or replaced at this age?

Thank you.

 

[Gary D Olson]

Well you are a stup if you double post and you screw it up. Read the posts where people have dug a hole with good intentions. There is lots of how not to do things in this forum.
Start with the simple stuff like the indicator or phono eq. I know the ps should be done first but it might not be the easiest one to do.
Yes start with another unit which is less prized, so if you screw it up, you won't be crying as bad.

Another one, you should have asked for another sub, lets see
the idea is to do a search based on the device characteristics, so I get.
http://ca.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...0wm45Z1z0wqsyZ1z0wrjsZ1z0yoh9Z1z0x6esZ1z0x6ed
You know you are in the ball park when you see the one that are trying to sub in the list. So you ordered something that is non-stocked.

for this one being important and Mouser not having a sub with the same or better specs, I would have bought this one or all my parts from digikey instead
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/UVP1A222MHD1TN/493-12674-1-ND/4328291

I decided to dive right in to the deep end and (gulp) use the SA-8800 as my first recap. On the bright side, so far I find my soldering skills better than expected, but only time will tell if that's really the truth. I started with the indicator and EQ assemblies replacing all the caps. I double and triple checked both boards for bad joints that may cause a short, then reassembled minus top cover & knobs. This is a 200w unit but the biggest bulb I have available for the dbt is a 150w. It burns brightly during the test with no activity on the Pioneer even after a few minutes. Is it possible nothing is actually shorted and I simply need a 200w bulb? If not, any guidance on how to use a mm to track down the problem would be greatly appreciated. I wish I had more free time to learn this stuff without having to ask, but that ain't gonna happen in the foreseeable future.

 

[rcs16]

are you sure that you have that dbt wired up correctly? the lamp is to be in series with one of the amp power AC leads.
I use a 90W lamp for a sx-1050 power supply but that is the smallest one should use.
a good idea was to test the dbt on the working unit before you did any work to it.

 

[petehall347]

dbt wiring crossed my mind too ..lets hope its just that ..these nsa amps can bite .. i would rather check dc offset and bias and not do anything at all if good and just use it .

 

[leesonic]

You could probably have used film caps wherever there are non-polarized or low leakage electrolytics up to about 10uF. Any larger than that, and the film cap gets physically too large.

You might want to check the output transistors with a multimeter.

Lee.

 

[Gary D Olson]

are you sure that you have that dbt wired up correctly? the lamp is to be in series with one of the amp power AC leads.
I use a 90W lamp for a sx-1050 power supply but that is the smallest one should use.
a good idea was to test the dbt on the working unit before you did any work to it.

Here's how my dim bulb tester was wired:

The black (hot) wire from the plug is looped through a switch / it continues to the double outlet with jumpers removed nd is connected to the hot terminal of the top outlet to which the bulb is connected / it continues out the neutral terminal and into the hot terminal of the lower outlet / then continues out the neutral terminal back to the white wire on the plug. The plug's green (ground) wire is connected to the ground on the lower outlet to which the tested unit is connected. I connect the bulb with no device and I get no light. I connect the device, flip the switch, and have bright light.

Is this correct?

 

[Gary D Olson]

One more question about the caps that are glued to the board: is it necessary to glue the replacement caps in the same manner, and if so, what type of glue is recommended?

 

[Dingman]

Here's how my dim bulb tester was wired:

The black (hot) wire from the plug is looped through a switch / it continues to the double outlet with jumpers removed nd is connected to the hot terminal of the top outlet to which the bulb is connected / it continues out the neutral terminal and into the hot terminal of the lower outlet / then continues out the neutral terminal back to the white wire on the plug. The plug's green (ground) wire is connected to the ground on the lower outlet to which the tested unit is connected. I connect the bulb with no device and I get no light. I connect the device, flip the switch, and have bright light.

Is this correct?

Yup, your bulb sounds correct. Looks like you have a dead short in your unit.

 

[Gary D Olson]

I'll be continuing the recap once the short is found and I want to be well prepared. I've been reading up and have run into comments about thermal pads. I've used thermal paste many times but never heard of thermal pads until now. Will they be needed for this project and if so what product is recommended?

 

[Gary D Olson]

Continued

Should the mica insulators be replaced too?

 

[VINTAGEO]

Wow this thread died quick! How did your project turn out?
I was looking forward to more info, I have a non working unit, very little sound at high volume, what could be causing this?
I have experience recapping a Marantz 170DC amp and it works great now,

 

[jessbob]

What the heck, man I hate reading a interesting thread and its unfinished. On a serious not I hope he didn't hurt himself or the unit being restored.

 

[petehall347]

he was last seen dec 25 last year . hope the dbt wiring didn't cause a big problem