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Sansui 8080 Pawnshop Special.

Dan887217

Dan887217

Member
Well last week I paid off the layaway on my new to me Sansui 8080.
One lamp is out for a meter but that’s not my worry.
The sound is grainy muffled/distorted slightly. On all inputs/ sources.
Dolby board when engaged using aux turns all sounds off.
Dolby fm am is fine.
I don’t see any overheated parts on the board.
I have only taken off the top and cleaned up some dust.
Still sounds amazing in this condition.
I knew something was wrong when buying it and pawnshop wouldn’t budge on price.
I got 575.00 cdn in so far.

I can do work myself with guidance and reference material.
I got soldering iron and equip, multimeter, oscope,
A buddy I can call, and a source for caps and such.
Help please.
 
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Is it an 8080 or 8080DB?

Nice receiver. I have one (8080DB) here now that I am working on. Had static distortion and dropped channels. A good cleaning of the controls fixed it.

I suggest cleaning the controls. The selector switches especially.

Rob
 
Robisme said:
Is it an 8080 or 8080DB?

Nice receiver. I have one (8080DB) here now that I am working on. Had static distortion and dropped channels. A good cleaning of the controls fixed it.

I suggest cleaning the controls. The selector switches especially.

Rob
Click to expand...
Same with mine. Noisy, dropped channel. Cleaned all of the controls, and it's good to go.
 
8080 doesn't have the infamous double sided board, so you should be ok with a good control cleaning. Some disassembly required, as the contacts hare on the back of most of the switches. It's coming out of protection, so I'd leave current and bias and such alone unless you're comfortable with that sort of thing.

Dan887217 said:
A good bit of deoxit spray wipe and let dry?
Any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

Less is better. Turn the nozzle down to low, and only spray a little directly into any holes in the controls. Do this from several angles for good coverage, an be sue to work the controls a few times to spread it around. I find centering any pots before spraying works better as the excess goop tends to get scraped to the ends of the contacts as you sweep them end to end.

Be careful around meters and faceplates as a lot of cleaners can damage those.

If you do dig into the lights, just be aware that those light cages get fragile over the years, so easy does it. Yes, they can be a bit of a PITA to get out, but leave the hammer in the drawer. <G>

Not sure about the "muffled" thing. I do know that replacing the big power rail caps can be a night and day difference there and also add a lot of impact. Cheap and fairly easy fix if you're handy with a soldering iron.
 
I apologize I am a newbie to this receiver. So looking at pictures theirs a separate input for Dolby noise reduction plugged my iPod into that and I have sound.
Was talking to a local tech and he said that 35.00 to estimate work and then 125-150 for a go over and fix what needs to be done. Said he would replace the lamps with originals after I asked if he did led upgrades.
So I just have to find some time to investigate more.
Dan
 
sKiZo said:
8080 doesn't have the infamous double sided board, so you should be ok with a good control cleaning. Some disassembly required, as the contacts hare on the back of most of the switches. It's coming out of protection, so I'd leave current and bias and such alone unless you're comfortable with that sort of thing.



Less is better. Turn the nozzle down to low, and only spray a little directly into any holes in the controls. Do this from several angles for good coverage, an be sue to work the controls a few times to spread it around. I find centering any pots before spraying works better as the excess goop tends to get scraped to the ends of the contacts as you sweep them end to end.

Be careful around meters and faceplates as a lot of cleaners can damage those.

If you do dig into the lights, just be aware that those light cages get fragile over the years, so easy does it. Yes, they can be a bit of a PITA to get out, but leave the hammer in the drawer. <G>

Not sure about the "muffled" thing. I do know that replacing the big power rail caps can be a night and day difference there and also add a lot of impact. Cheap and fairly easy fix if you're handy with a soldering iron.
Click to expand...

I have fixed speakers and still working on a light issue in my Sansui 881.
My good buddy said 4 seconds of heat and take it off. I have flux now what’s the discretion with using this can you describe its use better to me.
 
Dan887217 said:
I apologize I am a newbie to this receiver. So looking at pictures theirs a separate input for Dolby noise reduction plugged my iPod into that and I have sound.
Was talking to a local tech and he said that 35.00 to estimate work and then 125-150 for a go over and fix what needs to be done. Said he would replace the lamps with originals after I asked if he did led upgrades.
So I just have to find some time to investigate more.
Dan
Click to expand...

With the easy availability of LED fuse-style bulbs, with built-in resistors, the hassle of modifying the unit for LEDs have been eliminated. Plug and play. Not sure why you wouldn't use them...they run cooler, look good and will last just about forever. Parts Express has them...quite cheap. I think Mouser carries them as well, and I am sure many other suppliers.

You can also very, very easily modify the unit so that the dial lamps stay on regardless of source selected. I like having the display lit up all the time, and with LED bulbs there is little worry about heat build-up or burning out. See this thread:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/9090-dial-lamp-bypass-procedure.51901/
 
Lights still look better than leds but the led color choices the different whites needed to emulate the originals or enhance them some are getting into the pipeline. I hate the idea of an LED upgrade. if the look isn't as good and overpoweringly bright it is a downgrade. If you are going to live with the unit for another 35 years, then maybe leds will keep you from having to go back in and swap the all new lamps you put in in 2018.

Seems like you need to get the manuals for the unit, look over them, get some deoxit and faderlube and read the idiots guide to deoxit in General, I think, then go to town getting your unit all cleaned up inside and out. Then when you have carefully cleaned it and put it back together, get some beauty shots and post em, give the unit a try and let us know what you think of the sound. It may need some service...the one mentioned is just a cleaning, light bulb and replacing anything that is broken...not a full rebuild or anything. I just did a 9090db for a friend that wanted to spend no money. I squeezed him for a c-note to rebuild the tuner power supply (all the caps were burned up running to high a voltage) and do a few other caps, the driver board and some of the power supply. He now has a c-note in the unit and is happy with it. Of course, there could be other components that cause problems in that unit since it didn't leave here 100% updated. But I expect it to be a fine unit for some years to come.

I like the idea of the dial light bypass procedure. Don't understand why stuff turns off when that source isn't selected.
 
Robisme said:
Is it an 8080 or 8080DB?

Nice receiver. I have one (8080DB) here now that I am working on. Had static distortion and dropped channels. A good cleaning of the controls fixed it.

I suggest cleaning the controls. The selector switches especially.

Rob
Click to expand...

8080
 
I would have agreed about LED lamps a few years back, but the newer version of the fuse-style LEDs looks very good to me (warm white version). They diffuse well - which was one of the problem with the earlier solutions - and they seem no brighter than originals to me.

If you do the dial light modification, you sure as heck won't get 35 years out of the incandescents! Maybe not even 3.5 years.

The LED bulbs are so inexpensive now that I would recommend at least trying them. I've restored 3 9090's and an 8080 in the last 18 months and used the warm white LEDs in all of them...owners were very happy with how they looked.
 
For our database. My units serial number is 826032400.
This evening I pulled the driver board looked clean on the male connection but when wiped with 99% isopropyl the little cotton square became light brown my guess with dust. I then used contact cleaner to spray the female connection and another cotton square to soak up the residue from the contact cleaner. Gonna let dry over night and check in the morning.

Now I watched a video on the 9090db by blueglowelectronics on YouTube and he said something about the transistors or something on the back with the heat sinks when they die can cause a similar issue to sound and protection mode if I remember correct.
Btw does anybody else have white dots on the metal inside the chassis.
Now by looking at the wood under side of the cover there’s no sign of mold or mildew. But on the board it looks like mold spots long dead or the way dust collected.

I understand I need to post photos I use my phone for a lot and not my laptop and need to redo photobucket or something like that for photos.
 
Use drag and drop for photos the bucket is a waste of storage space with their new no links policy without coughing up hundreds of bucks.
 
If new bulbs don't last like the originals there is something wrong on the unit. But for those that must go led I don't care it is your unit.
 
So after a little bit of cleaning last night it didn’t improve much. I did however notice this morning that while turning the volume up and down all the way. When turned very quiet one channel drops and the other is still producing sound. Using balance no problem.
So my next guess is a dirty volume pot.
I also plan on cleaning the speaker connections on the back.

Now to clean the volume pot can I flip the unit on its top and take the bottom off or do I need to just remove the knob for volume and balance and give it a spray that way or is it more in-depth.
Dan
 
Regarding deoxit/pot cleaning....see this thread :

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-idiots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/

Just spraying the shafts from the front of the unit will do little to nothing. You have to get the product into the switches and into the potentiometer housings. If you feel you must deoxit the speaker terminals and input/output connections, place something behind them (inside the unit) to keep spray from going where it shouldn't.

Personally, I think using a non-residue contact cleaner (such as CRC QD) on the multi-contact selector switches (those with phenolic wafers) is a better idea than deoxit, as the residual lubricant in Deoxit can cause unexpected/undesirable outcomes when it is absorbed into the phenolic material. Others report no problems with Deoxit for these switches.

I would also suggest that you plug your iPod into one of the standard inputs (AUX, TAPE) rather than the Dolby adaptor jacks. If your are using the headphone jack of the iPod, don't expect the best quality sound.
 
LED conversions can be pretty awesome if done right, but I've seen a lot that are the wrong color and output and just kinda scram at ya. Also annoying if you get flicker, especially for late night listening in a darkened room.

This one worked out just about perfect using 12v automotive retrofit high output warm white bulbs driven by the Sansui's original 7vac supply and a rectifier circuit to convert the AC to DC and eliminate flicker. The light color and intensity are next best thing to a perfect match for the original lighting.

led-faceplate-done2.jpg
 
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