The 1/2 watt won't blow if they need to. But 1/4w metal film will toast in case there is an overload situation and act like a fuse. The concept of using 4.7 Ohm fusible in place of a jumper is that they add very little resistance to the circuit, but just enough to heat up and blow like a fuse. That is the reason they were metal oxide to take the heat but over time whatever they used as the fusing element just drifted higher and higher in resistance and got hotter and hotter until they failed. That is why the colors faded out too, from the heat. Modern fusible resistors are way better and actually blow without any visible signs except for maybe a tiny crack.Is there any reason the 4.7Ω wirewound fusible resistors mentioned above would not be suitable to use? Since I have them in stock...
The 1/2w has a higher current rating and would be the same as putting a higher amp fuse in.Is there any reason the 4.7Ω wirewound fusible resistors mentioned above would not be suitable to use? Since I have them in stock...
No. In theory there is no need for a fusible element for function under normal circumstances. But later noted cascading failure points under warranty when something went awry. (think over cranking and abuse) That's why later versions were produced with the fusible resistors in place of a jumper, and in other vulnerable areas to help protect parts of the circuit and limit the damage. Besides, the driver transistors would smoke if current exceeds their rating, short, and cause further damage. 3.5-4A is way above the transistor rating..Wonder why the factory had put jumpers in these positions on this board.
I guess if purpose was to act as a fuse (and not necessarily to add 4.7 ohms of resistance), a piece of 24 awg wire is basically a 3.5-4A fuse, yes?
That's a DC surge. Not so good. Try the usual deoxit treatment for the pots and switches first. Have you done any work on the protection board?just my meters swing when i turn them on