• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Sansui AU-X911dg restoration

quadmatrix82

quadmatrix82

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Hi Sansui enthusiasts, I was lucky enough to recently acquire a Sansui AU-X911DG...I've never owned one of these more recent Sansui's, from the initial reading here I saw lots of positive comments but no restoration threads so thought I'd share mine...upon a quick look inside its mostly original and dusty - I found one changed cap that's about it. The power plug needs changing seems to have had an arch at some point, purchased it in working condition and whilst it's so tempting to just use it as is I feel its worthy a restore now to enjoy its full potential...

Has anyone restored one of these before? does anyone have any recommendations for which capacitors to use? if anyone has a previous BOM that could be shared that would be appreciated!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7948.jpg
    IMG_7948.jpg
    44.7 KB · Views: 77
  • IMG_7949.jpg
    IMG_7949.jpg
    80.2 KB · Views: 69
  • IMG_7951.jpg
    IMG_7951.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 79
  • IMG_7952.jpg
    IMG_7952.jpg
    102.5 KB · Views: 79
Register to hide this ad
The best that I can offer is the thread from when I recapped and upgraded my AU-X711 (same amp and preamp stage as the 911DG) many years back.

Unfortunately I no longer have the BOM on hand, and don't recall the finer details beyond what I've posted in the thread. I definitely enjoyed the sound after the recap, fancy resistors and bypass caps - it went from being a bit "darker" in the upper mids and top end when compared to my later AU-alpha 607MRX to at least on-par with it, if not better.

Sansui AU-X711 upgrade | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
 
pete_mac said:
The best that I can offer is the thread from when I recapped and upgraded my AU-X711 (same amp and preamp stage as the 911DG) many years back.

Unfortunately I no longer have the BOM on hand, and don't recall the finer details beyond what I've posted in the thread. I definitely enjoyed the sound after the recap, fancy resistors and bypass caps - it went from being a bit "darker" in the upper mids and top end when compared to my later AU-alpha 607MRX to at least on-par with it, if not better.

Sansui AU-X711 upgrade | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Click to expand...
Thanks I’ll read up on it for some tips…do you know if the volume knob is a screwed on or is it slide only?
 
pete_mac said:
It's a slide-on knob on the 711 so I assume the 911 is the same.

I went a little overboard re: throwing fancy bits and pieces at the amp, but it was a fun process nonetheless.
Click to expand...
Thanks Pete started tearing it down tonight nice construction thus far
 
quadmatrix82 said:
Thanks Pete started tearing it down tonight nice construction thus far
Click to expand...

Indeed, they are pretty well made!

Apologies for the off-topic, but the 711/911 were the first of the "607" series which featured the central transformer and filter caps, flanked by the driver boards and heat sinks on each side. This design continued all the way through to the very last 607s before Sansui folded. Of course, this design was also found on the 707 and 907 models across the years.

Some comparison shots here - you can see how they design changed from the 701 to the 711 and how it compares to the 607MRX

AU-Alpha comparison - 701, 711 and 607MRX | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums

(the photobucket bandit has unfortunately watermarked the pics though :( )
 
Looking at the zener diodes on the main boards look a bit heated z2 according to the service manual is a rd22fb is a 22v 1 watt zener suitable?
 
quadmatrix82 said:
Thankyou! Did you use Elna Simmic for the main amp module boards? Was hard to tell in the photos
Click to expand...
No, I didn't use Elna Silmic, I never use them because I don't like them. I am very sceptical of a capacitor that apparently requires 100's of hours of 'burn in' before it sounds good. I want immediate results - and I get that with the capacitors I use.
 
quadmatrix82 said:
Looking at the zener diodes on the main boards look a bit heated z2 according to the service manual is a rd22fb is a 22v 1 watt zener suitable?
Click to expand...
I think an RD22FB is a 1W device, as you can see from my pictures these get very hot, I replaced the diodes so I could mount them up off the board using ceramic beads. ;)
 
Hyperion said:
No, I didn't use Elna Silmic, I never use them because I don't like them. I am very sceptical of a capacitor that apparently requires 100's of hours of 'burn in' before it sounds good. I want immediate results - and I get that with the capacitors I use.
Click to expand...
Thanks which ones would you recommend for the amp module? I have Panasonic fc on hand Elna, and some Nichicon high temps welcome suggestions
 
Cheers I must of missed it earlier on my quick read while pulling the amp apart, so lots of low impedance caps looks like another mouser order is due
 
Started cleaning and disassembly of the amp, found some dry joints which I touched up - while waiting for my parts to arrive doing what I can…I came across the rod pictured that goes to the mm and mc switch - what is the best way to remove this to access the board behind it? I haven’t removed the faceplate as yet as the volume knob is stubbornly fixed and I haven’t seen a screw or grommet to remove it as yet
 

Attachments

  • AE497AC6-2CB7-4B5A-9FB2-BD0B1DBB29E7.jpeg
    AE497AC6-2CB7-4B5A-9FB2-BD0B1DBB29E7.jpeg
    142.5 KB · Views: 34
quadmatrix82 said:
I came across the rod pictured that goes to the mm and mc switch - what is the best way to remove this to access the board behind it?
Click to expand...
If you mean the metal strip in the blue linear cage, it is best to leave it attached to wherever it goes at both ends. Usually one end will go to a (front?), panel mounted 'detent' or switch mechanism, and the other end to a PCB mounted switch or contact set. Obviously take great care not to bend or crease the metal strip, or damage the plastic guide.
 
Hyperion said:
If you mean the metal strip in the blue linear cage, it is best to leave it attached to wherever it goes at both ends. Usually one end will go to a (front?), panel mounted 'detent' or switch mechanism, and the other end to a PCB mounted switch or contact set. Obviously take great care not to bend or crease the metal strip, or damage the plastic guide.
Click to expand...
Hi there no I mean the rod in the photo blocking the board it connects to the eq board and changes the mm-mc circuit normally very easy to remove in other amps this is fixed with a plastic mechanism wondering if anyone knows a safe way to remove?
 
Not much progress as yet waiting for parts - 22v zeners are now changed with a 1.3w version and raised off the board to minimise heat.
 
To remove the rod , you'll have to remove faceplate. Then it comes off along with the pushbutton.
Make sure you order all new trimmers. Also bear in mind there are a couple hidden in the front pcb behind the faceplate ,they are preamp dc offset.
The volume knob is hard fixed , but if you insist it will slide off . Don't be afraid of it.
Good luck. It's not a heavy work amp to recap . Actually it's pretty straight forward.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom