While I don't mind personally how this thread goes. I believe you're correct. It'll focus our objective and put it out in the open for others to see right away.
Who wants to start it?
Biggles
Sansui SP-3500 - An AK'er Gift and Restoration Project
- Thread starter drbiggles
- Start date
While I don't mind personally how this thread goes. I believe you're correct. It'll focus our objective and put it out in the open for others to see right away.
Who wants to start it?
Biggles
I guess the question would be on choosing a good title. Maybe, Sansui Cloth Surrounds Treatment. What do you think?
There needs to be a descriptive word in there regarding restoration, resurrection. Sansui Cloth Surround Restoration Technology Discussion. A little long, sorry about that. Just finished a cup of coffee.
Biggles
I agree. How about just "Sansui Cloth Surround Restoration"?
Bingo.
GD70
Lunatic Member
You are correct. Roy mixes up the stuff. He spent a lot of time getting it right and as close to the factory stuff as possible.
Thanks for confirming my comments, it is getting harder to remember everything you read here on AK.
GD70
Lunatic Member
Sure thing.:thmbsp:
You would need a photographic memory to remember everything you read here!
I am in the process of starting a new thread in the speaker forum that may provide the information that we are looking for.
Sansui Cloth Surround Restoration?
Sansui Cloth Surround Restoration?
Today marks the first day I've had the house to myself over the last however many weeks. I got a few errands taken care of, then got my work area cleaned up and ready!
The 3500's hardware and cabinet work are just as nice on the outside as they are when you start digging a bit. T-nuts on most of the screws holding things in, even on the crossover panel in the back. There are a few wood screws in there, but they don't amount to much. And, I was able to remove the crossover and the mid/tweet assembly without having to disconnect the wires. They came out together with ease.
That's the bottom, thankfully.
The only portions of these speakers that need attention are the tops and bottoms. I'll start with those, would be a shame to tear in to a perfectly good finish. I wonder if I can either match or not destroy the existing color.
Biggles
The 3500's hardware and cabinet work are just as nice on the outside as they are when you start digging a bit. T-nuts on most of the screws holding things in, even on the crossover panel in the back. There are a few wood screws in there, but they don't amount to much. And, I was able to remove the crossover and the mid/tweet assembly without having to disconnect the wires. They came out together with ease.
That's the bottom, thankfully.
The only portions of these speakers that need attention are the tops and bottoms. I'll start with those, would be a shame to tear in to a perfectly good finish. I wonder if I can either match or not destroy the existing color.
Biggles
I just did up some efforts on the bottom of the first enclosure. Am wanting to take my time, be a little patient. The lacquer and veneer on the bottom of this enclosure was pretty darned trashed, as you saw in the last image. I had planned on using a chemical stripper for the lacquer, but with all the exposed veneer, I decided to just use the palm sander and see how that went. It was very easy to see when the sander was sanding the lacquer versus the veneer. As soon as the veneer began to show up, I stopped. Veneer exposed.
I've got some clean old t-shirts, so got one wet. Set my wife's iron to high and worked on the scratches to see if I could raise some of the old wood.
Some of the veneer came back, sort of. But there are portions of the veneer that's missing. And some of the scratches are so deep and nasty, there was no wood left to raise.
I'm not done with it yet. I started with 80 grit to get the lacquer off. Yes, that was too much. But it was already on the sander and had been used previously, no harm done. Once the ironing was complete, I hit it with 200. That evened things out a bit, so I wiped it with mineral spirits to see what it looked like.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Wow, I just love the smell of wood being sanded. And walnut is so unique, tasty!
Biggles
I've got some clean old t-shirts, so got one wet. Set my wife's iron to high and worked on the scratches to see if I could raise some of the old wood.
Some of the veneer came back, sort of. But there are portions of the veneer that's missing. And some of the scratches are so deep and nasty, there was no wood left to raise.
I'm not done with it yet. I started with 80 grit to get the lacquer off. Yes, that was too much. But it was already on the sander and had been used previously, no harm done. Once the ironing was complete, I hit it with 200. That evened things out a bit, so I wiped it with mineral spirits to see what it looked like.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Wow, I just love the smell of wood being sanded. And walnut is so unique, tasty!
Biggles
Looks like you are making great progress biggles. I would never touch veneer with 80 grit though. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 steams with a bit of sanding in between to get the deep ones to raise up. After that you either have to live with them or fill them. Keep us updated.
Yeah, totally hip to the 80. Really cut through the lacquer though ...
Any ideas as to how to remove the binding clips so I can get the crossover out of its tray?
And here's the top with the second application of paint stripper. If I had to guess, most of the heavy scratches and abrasions are in the lacquer and should come out easily. Sansui was thoughtful and added a nice thick coating or 3.
Biggles
Hi guys,
May I offer a comment? Compared to you I have 0.1% speaker experience, but back in my etching days I used MEK by the 55 gal barrel. Please be careful with that stuff. MEK will dissolve things that most other solvents won't even think about softening. I'd think very carefully before using it. If you do, be very careful about what it contacts and ventilate very well. Get some on your hands and you can taste it shortly after.
Respectfully,
James
May I offer a comment? Compared to you I have 0.1% speaker experience, but back in my etching days I used MEK by the 55 gal barrel. Please be careful with that stuff. MEK will dissolve things that most other solvents won't even think about softening. I'd think very carefully before using it. If you do, be very careful about what it contacts and ventilate very well. Get some on your hands and you can taste it shortly after.
Respectfully,
James
Hi James,
Totally hip the MEK and its dangers can be found expressed throughout this forum. It's the Ketones part of that solvent that makes it so nasty for us and what tears whatever we're working to, to pieces. Keep the Ketones out of your skin and lungs! We'd be far better off with a good mixture of Toluene, Xylene and Alcohol. OH yeah.
Biggles
Any ideas as to how to remove the binding clips so I can get the crossover out of its tray?
Biggles
Those look like they are riveted in and you may have to clip the leads close to the current capacitors and use the existing lead to solder the new ones in. My 2 cents.
Ahhh, so leave the binding clips in and do all the capacitor work from this side. Okay, yeah I can do that.
Biggles
Alrighty then, 2 applications of stripper complete. Gently washed and wiped with sponge. Then used an ultra-fine scotch brite pad in the areas where the lacquer was still present. It looks as though some of the deeper scratches actually made it in to the veneer. From the looks of it though, with some moisture and iron, it should raise really well.
I will also do a few more tries with the moisture and iron on the bottom as well. More than once.
And here it is dried and as it stands at the moment.
Once the lacquer is gone will moisture and iron, then hand-sand with 400. At least that's my plan for today.
Biggles
I will also do a few more tries with the moisture and iron on the bottom as well. More than once.
And here it is dried and as it stands at the moment.
Once the lacquer is gone will moisture and iron, then hand-sand with 400. At least that's my plan for today.
Biggles
I would go with 220 or 320 at first. I only use 400 or greater as the final step.
Correct unless you want to instal a remote set of quality ones. I already have thought this step out and knew you would hit this road block.
If you drill the rivets that stop you from disassembling the XO plan on soldering two jumper leads. Then the leads to some good multi connection bindings mounted through the 3/4 ply back panel.
The factory binding are weak and to small for heavy gauge wire.
I guess you like these speaker:yes: