Sansui SP-3500 - An AK'er Gift and Restoration Project

[drbiggles]

I would go with 220 or 320 at first. I only use 400 or greater as the final step.

That's what I've done in the past. As I was packing these up, I was talking with 4-2-7 and I thought I remembered him saying I should chemical strip, wipe clean, steam iron, then hand-sand with 400. And that's why I was doing that.

I've gone both ways with the 220 to 400, or just stopping at 220. It seems to vary depending on what kind of condition the veneer is when I get them. I still need to see where this veneer is after I get the lacquer off.

Correct unless you want to instal a remote set of quality ones. I already have thought this step out and knew you would hit this road block.

If you drill the rivets that stop you from disassembling the XO plan on soldering two jumper leads. Then the leads to some good multi connection bindings mounted through the 3/4 ply back panel.

The factory binding are weak and to small for heavy gauge wire.

I guess you like these speaker:yes:

Oh, I gotcha. Yeah. Okay. And? I have a new (installed once) set of binding posts I bought for the Altecs. I didn't know to buy insulated ones. Apparently that's important when you install a crossover on an aluminum plate, ahem.

I'm liking the 3500's a lot! Am wavering at the amount of work it's taken so far though. With the palm sander I would have been down to smooth veneer by now. But as it is, only have a top and bottom almost complete. Doing the sides and trim on both is a daunting job at this point. So, I just won't look at what lays ahead. That will take care of that.

Biggles

 

[4-2-7]

Steaming will not swell up scratches that broke the wood grain. Steaming will swell up softer crushed wood scratches

I use 80 grit at times on veneer to mill it down to clean wood. But you need to leave sanding room for 100 & 150 before burning through it. You have to proges down in your grits, and not jump from 80 to 150.

I never sand raw wood any finer grit than 180. Grits like 220,320,400 and so forth are for sanding the finish between coats. I mainly use 320 for lacquer sanding sealer, 220 for pollys and such that are thick and clog finer papers. I will use 320 & 220 to sand raw bleached wood so I don't sand through the bleach.

But hey what do I know.

 

[drbiggles]

Steaming will not swell up scratches that broke the wood grain. Steaming will swell up softer crushed wood scratches

I use 80 grit at times on veneer to mill it down to clean wood. But you need to leave sanding room for 100 & 150 before burning through it. You have to proges down in your grits, and not jump from 80 to 150.

I never sand raw wood any finer grit than 180. Grits like 220,320,400 and so forth are for sanding the finish between coats. I mainly use 320 for lacquer sanding sealer, 220 for pollys and such that are thick and clog finer papers. I will use 320 & 220 to sand raw bleached wood so I don't sand through the bleach.

But hey what do I know.

Broken wood grain, no workie. Crushed wood will swell. I get that.

I noticed the difference between the 200 and 400 directly on wood ain't enough to sneeze at. Yeah, finer grits for sanding between finish coats. I get that. And it's the finish coats that finally fill the grain and where you get the ultra smoove, correct?

Once I get the last of the old lacquer off the top of the enclosure and steam, hand-sand, what next? Will there be enough of the old stain to be of use? Mohawk Stain of some ilk? Yer rub on poly that you used on your JBL's in your living room? That's what I'm going for.

Biggles

 

[4-2-7]

Since you just have access to consumer stripper it's harder to do.

Apply stripper and keep working it so it's always wet. Don't let it dry!

Let the stripper do the work, scrape off finish & sripper. Does it need another app if so re-apply, if not scrub it down with lacquer thinner and red pad. Wipe clean with rag and lacquer thinner.

 

[drbiggles]

Since you just have access to consumer stripper it's harder to do.

Apply stripper and keep working it so it's always wet. Don't let it dry!

Let the stripper do the work, scrape off finish & sripper. Does it need another app if so re-apply, if not scrub it down with lacquer thinner and red pad. Wipe clean with rag and lacquer thinner.

Ain't that the truth. It's dry now. Just a bit left on the top. Most of the original color of the wood is already gone. That was some Grade A effort right there.

Biggles

 

[4-2-7]

Broken wood grain, no workie. Crushed wood will swell. I get that.

I noticed the difference between the 200 and 400 directly on wood ain't enough to sneeze at. Yeah, finer grits for sanding between finish coats. I get that. And it's the finish coats that finally fill the grain and where you get the ultra smoove, correct?

Once I get the last of the old lacquer off the top of the enclosure and steam, hand-sand, what next? Will there be enough of the old stain to be of use? Mohawk Stain of some ilk? Yer rub on poly that you used on your JBL's in your living room? That's what I'm going for.

Biggles

Broken wood grain, no workie. Crushed wood will swell. I get that.<Yes

I noticed the difference between the 200 and 400 directly on wood ain't enough to sneeze at.<your not tying to polish wood Yeah, finer grits for sanding between finish coats.<Yes I get that. And it's the finish coats that finally fill the grain and where you get the ultra smoove, correct?< yes correct, that the babies bottom you refer to

Once I get the last of the old lacquer off the top of the enclosure and steam, hand-sand, what next? Will there be enough of the old stain to be of use? Mohawk Stain of some ilk? Yer rub on poly that you used on your JBL's in your living room? That's what I'm going for.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


The biggest thing to refinishing is being consistent in all the work. Starting with how you strip, sand everything. Prep is 90% of the work and will dictate how your project ends.

I would not try and sand to much only hand sand with 150 to leave the old color the fading.

If the top needs a heavy sanding down to new wood color then do all surfaces the same. Unless you have access to bleaches, colors and the knowledge of using them to match the sample.

If you like the color that the bottom look like sand away brother. But sand everything the same, "Consistency is the key"

 

[drbiggles]

If you like the color that the bottom look like sand away brother. But sand everything the same, "Consistency is the key"

And I believe that's where I'm at now. While the sides would do just fine with the stripping and light sanding method. The tops and bottoms of the enclosures will require heavier sanding. So, to keep the consistency throughout, I'm going to sand to bare veneer all the way around.

Biggles

 

[4-2-7]

Ain't that the truth. It's dry now. Just a bit left on the top. Most of the original color of the wood is already gone.<you did not lose the original color of the wood. What you lost is the old lacquer that yellowed and got cloudy & dirty. You now have the wood color with clarity. That was some Grade A effort right there.

Biggles

Comments within the quote

 

[4-2-7]

And I believe that's where I'm at now. While the sides would do just fine with the stripping and light sanding method. The tops and bottoms of the enclosures will require heavier sanding. So, to keep the consistency throughout, I'm going to sand to bare veneer all the way around.

Biggles

Ok but all the same grits and effort, Consistency

Then when two speaker are all at the same prep stage awaiting a finish. You can decide to bleach? stain? clear coat,

 

[4-2-7]

ha ha ha when your done I have 4 more 3500s lol

 

[doctorolds]

And I believe that's where I'm at now. While the sides would do just fine with the stripping and light sanding method. The tops and bottoms of the enclosures will require heavier sanding. So, to keep the consistency throughout, I'm going to sand to bare veneer all the way around.

Biggles

Keep at it biggles. 4-2-7 is correct in saying, make all surfaces the same, the end result will be that much better.

 

[drbiggles]

Yeah, that's what I meant. Lost the color of whatever finish was on there. Now it's semi-clean walnut! I can hardly wait to see how the rest comes out, oh yeah.

Biggles

 

[drbiggles]

ha ha ha when your done I have 4 more 3500s lol

Yeah! Ungh.

Am still waiting to hear back on the SP-200's I emailed about on CL earlier today. They're asking 15 bux, I offered 10. They're rough and untested.

Biggles

 

[4-2-7]

Yeah! Ungh.

Am still waiting to hear back on the SP-200's I emailed about on CL earlier today. They're asking 15 bux, I offered 10. They're rough and untested.

Biggles

The 200s are tiny, save your money:thmbsp:

 

[dontmindme]

I'm a novice, but can't you drill the rivet?

 

[drbiggles]

The 200s are tiny, save your money:thmbsp:

I know, but I just gotta stick my hand in the rotating fan blade, the wet paint on the bench. I may have pissed them off and won't return my email.

Nearly drove to SF last night for a free Sansui 221 tube receiver of unknown condition. It was dark, cold and I decided not to.

Biggles

 

[drbiggles]

I'm a novice, but can't you drill the rivet?

You can, and I may. But getting the factory binding posts re-installed would be impossible after doing that. The factory rivet isn't replaceable. It's a one way trip baby!

Biggles

 

[drbiggles]

Happy Saturday! It was 70 in the shade here yesterday and by the looks of things, it's going to be the same here again today. I'm okay with that, just spent the morning out with a 3500 enclosure. I decided to bypass the chemical stripper route. It was just too much with what's available to me. Just one little side from start to finish would be a day or more. Armed with a finishing sander, I got most of the enclosure done.

The first order of business was to steam any and all scratches, again. I did both the top and bottom and it helped a lot. There were quite a few ruts where the veneer was just pushed in and not missing. There are also places where the veneer is missing. Once everything was dry, sanded with 150 to 200. It's what I had and am now out of the 200/220. Dangit.

There are still some artifacts left, but the severity has been reduced considerably. I'm sure with a staining and finish coat, all will fade in to the background and not be such a big deal.

My biggest hurdle at the moment is going to be getting the inside trim around the front, the one that's attached to the baffle, all sanded and nice. It's curved and not easily accessible. Sure, one would just dig out the chemical stripper and I may end up having to do that. But I've used chemical stripper and water clean-up around areas that have seams! Those seams suck up stripper and water like sponges. Keeping it out of those seams isn't possible with my skill level, yet. So, we'll see.

Biggles

 

[doctorolds]

You are making good progress on those. It looks like you will need to make a little sanding pad out of something flat and go for it by hand. I use plastic signs cut to the shape I need. The plastic I use is from the grocery, or any store that you may be able to ask someone for. They are about 1/8" thick with hard plastic on each side and a softer foam middle, which allows them to be flexible. You could sand it some and do a quick steaming which will turn the finish white so you can see where to sand further. Keep at it!

 

[drbiggles]

You are making good progress on those. It looks like you will need to make a little sanding pad out of something flat and go for it by hand. I use plastic signs cut to the shape I need. The plastic I use is from the grocery, or any store that you may be able to ask someone for. They are about 1/8" thick with hard plastic on each side and a softer foam middle, which allows them to be flexible. You could sand it some and do a quick steaming which will turn the finish white so you can see where to sand further. Keep at it!

Thank you and it feels good. And am hip to the sign material you're talking about, will look for it. Wife's iron shoots a little steam, will try that and see how that goes. Soft/failed finish makes it nicer to remove.

I'm on it!

Biggles