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Scott Copley 203 Console

Here is the tube inventory (some were hard to read and I may have some digits wrong)...

6 @ Telefunken 12AX7 (Western Germany)
2 @ Telefunken 6U8 (Western Germany)
Scott 6KE8 (Gr Britain)
Scott ECC85 (Gr Britain)
Scott 6BS8 (USA)
Scott AU6A (USA)
Scott 6HS6
Pro/Comm 12AX7A
Scott 6BA6 (USA)
Scott 6BE6 (USA)

Pictures here if you want to see them.

I don't know if the Teles are smooth plate or ribbed plate or even what that means.
 
markshan said:
I'm in way over my head. My first question...

I hear that you should bring tube stuff up slowly on a variac. I don't have one. Does this matter since it is tube pre but transistor power? If I recap first can I then safely give it power. Does this thing have any of the selenium rectifiers I hear about? Maybe under the square covers? If not, what is under those squares and s it safe to remove those covers?
Click to expand...

I'm really hoping someone will help me with these questions. Thanks.
 
Wowzer -

Awesome score for $10.00!

Beautiful set all around - well worth keeping!

-Always safer to bring up on a Variac if you can, or Google "Dim Bulb tester" for an alternate -

I suspect that those are the power output transistors under that square cover you mention - should be OK, but also could be the reason one channel is not working if the missing 12AX7 didn't solve that.

Selenium rectifiers are (typically) Orange or blue in color, square ribbed-things, if you find them much good Idea to replace


The one tube I looked closely at IS a "Smooth Plate" Tele, the 'ribbed' ones have little horizontal speed bumps in the grey rectangular plate - I looked only at your 1st picture.

Thats all I can offer - I am sure others more knowledgeable than I will jump in to help


And congrats on your discriminating wife!
 
markshan said:
Here is the tube inventory (some were hard to read and I may have some digits wrong)...

6 @ Telefunken 12AX7 (Western Germany)
2 @ Telefunken 6U8 (Western Germany)
Scott 6KE8 (Gr Britain)
Scott ECC85 (Gr Britain)
Scott 6BS8 (USA)
Scott AU6A (USA)
Scott 6HS6
Pro/Comm 12AX7A
Scott 6BA6 (USA)
Scott 6BE6 (USA)

Pictures here if you want to see them.

I don't know if the Teles are smooth plate or ribbed plate or even what that means.
Click to expand...

Killer console dude.Who ever replaced the tubes with Telefunkens knew what they were doing:thmbsp:
 
chinacave said:
I suspect that those are the power output transistors under that square cover you mention - should be OK, but also could be the reason one channel is not working if the missing 12AX7 didn't solve that.
Click to expand...

I don't know if it did or not because I have been afraid to plug it back in.
 
Guess I need to wire up a dim bulb tester. Any advice on how to proceed is most welcome. A big part of me wants to just send it to a shop but I really don't have the cash.
 
well, my take on this. Its already been plugged in and powered up right? if it didn't blow up then, theres not a bunch of point in bringing it up slowly. Any damage that would have been done has already been done. If its got a fuse holder, make sure it has the proper size fuse, and go for it. Just be ready to yank the plug if you see smoke or other signs of distress.

If you want to be a little safer about it, replace the power supply filter caps. They're the can caps. If it has paper capacitors inside, those are also suspect. I don't see a rectifier tube listed in the tube compliment, so most likely it has solid state rectifiers. I dont generally bother with replacing selenium rectifiers unless they are bad, but I realize that makes me one of the minority.
 
gadget73 said:
well, my take on this. Its already been plugged in and powered up right? if it didn't blow up then, theres not a bunch of point in bringing it up slowly. Any damage that would have been done has already been done.
Click to expand...

I thought about this, but when I gave it power in the store one of the 12AX7s was not in it's socket. Is it possible that there is still a faulty component "downstream" of this tube? If so, it would not have got power at that time, correct?

I'm game for boldly going where I've not gone before, but I don't want to damage the unit or fry myself.
 
gadget73 said:
most likely it has solid state rectifiers. I dont generally bother with replacing selenium rectifiers unless they are bad, but I realize that makes me one of the minority.
Click to expand...

You don't see a tube rectifier, I don't see a selenium one (assuming I know what I am looking for, I don't see any blue or orange bladed squares), how do I know what type of rectifier I have and if it needs attention? When I read that selenium give off a toxic gas, I already knew I was replacing it, good or bad (so you are still in the minority).

My soldering is iffy, but I'm game to take a stab at recapping. Thanks so much for your help.
 
KGBMAN said:
Can you post a picture of the underside of the chassis?
Click to expand...

I'll have to take off the bottom panel, but I'm going to have to do that anyway. I'll try to get this up this evening. With all the pics on pgs 2 and 3, and the tube pics in my photobucket, I think I've taken more pics of this console than of my children!

Thanks again for the help.
 
well, most of the time if something is going to pop, it will be in the high voltage power supply, which is found immediately after the rectifier. The rectifiers are probably going to live underneath.
 
Here is the underside. There are a lot of components, and packed together much more tightly that I expected. Originally I was thinking replace everything, but now I'm thinking just do what is most necessary. Photobucket shrunk the pics. Pm if you need me to email a full size version.

Once again, input is most appreciated.

bottomfront.jpg


bottomrear.jpg
 
It looks like you have discreet diodes instead of a rectifier assembly.

They are the components (with the arrows below) with the band on one end.
 

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the black thing looks like a thermistor maybe. if thats what it is, its probably to allow the B+ to come up more slowly.

yep, you have discreet silicon rectifiers. No problems there.

I'd replace all of the electrolytic caps, both the big can ones and the tubular jobbers in the back. Can't tell but some of the other caps may be a paper type, and those also should be replaced.
 
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