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Should I buy a pair of Yamaha NS-1000M?

Don't try to remove the grill yet.Pull the woofer out of the cabinet far enough to see if theres any glass wool folded behind it.There should be.Inspect the wiring for corrosion.
Important note: those woofers are heavy -maintain support with your hand while removing the four mounting screws.Use both hands to drop the woofer out of the cabinet.:yes:
A dirty mid level L-pad or coroded connection could foul up low end performance.
Black wires are negative and should be connected to the negative terminals on the woofer and midrange--the tweeters are wired with the black wire to the positive driver terminal--typical 12db/oct wiring.
 
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Do I have to pull the woofer to remove the protective grill? The L-pads do seem like they need a good cleaning - would that affect the woofer? Thanks Dave!

It is somewhat common for the woofer magnets to shift and lock the voice coil on these. The best way to tell is to manually try to move the cone from the back. I would try that and then if it is questionable and you aren't sure, wire the woofers directly to a source and test them. The output should be strong and you should be able to observe movement of the cone during a loud bass passage. Dave (Avionic) alluded to this possibility in post 18.

If you find the woofers are locked, they can be recentered, but the most cost effective repair is used replacements. You bought these right so even with replacement woofers, you did good.
 
these are cheaper then the 590s i saw for a buck 50 last month...sigh.

590 is a close proximation of what i remember of a model number.
 
Jealous.

In the more, ahem, fruitful days of yore (pre 2008) I would have bought ANY NS-1000m set that came along.

I settled for some NS-500Ma which (to me) are the closest thing to the 1000m since they have the same Be mids and tweets but with a new carbon woofer. I paid $300 for mine and thought they were a steal.

For $100 you could sell the cabinets and mids/tweets for parts and do very well. Find a solution to the woofers fast and a decent refinish will reward you with true studio monitors you can own for YEARS.

Now people mention rebuilding the crossovers or modding them. Recapping aside what was the procedure for the mods?
 
The NS-500a I'm pretty certain uses a 10cm Nate titanium carbonate diaphragm midrange driver, but it does use a pure beryllium VD dome tweeter. It matters not, I've heard a friend's the NS-300X, silked aluminum and titanium drivers and even they sound really nice, just smaller stage. I'd hazard they could outperform some highly regarded speakers in several areas, number one being detail. Smaller speakers sometimes just fall short in a bigger room and staging size.

Hello Cosworth, the NS-1000 modification encompasses a completely new crossover using modern Jantzen poly caps and air-core inductor on the mid. I enjoy Gravensen's opinions on things. He's a denmark-Jantzen-Seas-Scanspeak-Accuton guy who ended up loving the NS-1000 Monitors, because he recognized the drivers' potential and made it work for him. The unusually wide dispersion would explain past comments like "you can be to the side/behind the speakers and they still sound clear". Even stock NS-1000Ms appear to have zero lobbing and good dispersion until you are below the drivers, and even then its still good.

One of the pressing issues to audiophiles in low treated rooms or with a different taste was some wanted to tone down the midrange and/or treble, but this left the woofer covering more the midrange than desirable and obviously its not on the same sonic clarity level in this region as the dedicated dome mid. The woofer is interesting, its not particularly suited to midrange, but has a nice character. It appears almost as a low excursion subwoofer with 22Hz resonance on its own, and modeled in 100L with 25Hz passive radiator tuning your only down -6dB at 26Hz with smooth acoustic phase & respectable group delay at about 20ms for that tuning. Prefers low Qts sealed box alignments, I think, anyhow. My impressions have been it's cleanest reproduction is on the bottom end.

Gravensen modified the crossover with a 3rd order lowpass to roll the woofer off acoustically 4th order as per the original design target, and redesigned the midrange bandpass filter and attenuation slope to tilt the midrange response instead of just attenuating it as stock, leaving the low end of the midrange output unaffected in his new revised crossover. He steepened the tweeter roll off too for a proper 4th order acoustic contour. In stock form it overlaps a bit too much with a phase misalignment and can be the cause for "harsh" that people experience if your ears are above tweeter level. It's been said that the NS-1000M was a cost-no-object speaker, that isn't completely true. This speaker had to be made to a price point and that's evident in the design of the cabinet and crossover. And no the cabinet is not flimsy, its pretty dead, not perfect but a league above many highly regarded modern speakers as well. This new crossover appears to allow you to keep the stock cabinet and driver compliment while notably improving the major issues. There is still tons more potential. They went to all that work to design those drivers then installed grills that contribute to sound and uses a non-time aligned cabinet. Accuton did the same thing and they say removing the woofer grills can make a worthwhile difference at reference output levels, albeit it's there for protection.

"I'm not sure there's a plug'n play speaker, but this is not one of them." Isn't this the truth. If your room is wrong, your doomed from the get-go. I use mine with no attenuation, the sound control panels absorb the dispersion leaving a very neutral response. All too often I hear " I have a rug and drapes, and two corner traps but it sounds a bit bright", that is not enough for a speaker with this dispersion character. Think thick panels on many surfaces. The unusually wide dispersion would explain past user comments like "you can be to the side/behind the speakers and they still sound clear". In light of this, the best spot is somewhere near the center axis, I only find I realized full potential when ear level is at the top of the mid, this might be because of the lack of impulse (baffle time) alignment.
 
What is the number on the woofer? I have a pair of JA3060 12" Yamaha woofers that I refoamed. I was keeping them, along with a pair of JA0701B mids in case my NS-690s needed them but they are not really the same woofer as the NS-690 Mk I.
 
JonVH, The NS-500Ma (notice the M) uses the same mid as the NS-1000m. I took mine apart just to confirm part numbers.

Also, the NS-500Ma has a carbon woofer with no grill. The cabinet is about 2/3rds the heft of the 1000 cabinet. I spent half my life listening to NS-1000 speaker at my parent's home, my uncle's home and my grandfather's. Sadly, I can't do a back to back comparison but I have now stopped looking for a set of NS-1000m speakers. The 500Ma is more than satisfying me.

I'd like to think a recap in the future would make me happy. I wouldn't apply the crossover mod to the speakers unless there was an ability to match it to the different woofer of the 500Ma. I'd love to hot rod my speakers.
 
I might be missing something but this is the NS-500Ma

NS-500Ma
ns-500ma.JPG


NS-1000M
ns-1000m.JPG
 
I pulled the Woofers and it didn't seem like they wanted to move using my hands. I didn't see any corrosion on the wiring but there was some going around the sides of each of the magnets. I didn't clean the l-pads yet or remove the woofer as I wanted to report back what I've seen so far plus the heat is just oppressive in my garage today.

Any hopes?

Oh -and there is a fiberglass shroud behind the woofers. (and the crossovers are built like tanks! Wow!)
 
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G'day tiga,
We went through the frozen JA-3058 woofer issue in this thread:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=277136&highlight=NS-1000
Some more here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=236777&highlight=NS-1000
And here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=202963

The epoxy bonding the magnet to the backplate becomes brittle over time. If the speakers are dropped, the magnets dislodge and the voicecoil becomes stuck. You will have to pry the magnet loose, thoroughly clean any residual glue and then reset the magnet with 24hr epoxy. Centring the voicecoil is tricky, and much care needs to be taken not to damage the edges of the pole- but possible, even with a dodgy homemade jig. Repaired three of the NS-1000 and NS-690 woofers here. Definitely do-able.

I followed the same method as this Japanese bloke: http://www.kameson.com/audio/NS-690-2.htm The speakers are NS-690II, but the woofer is the same except for the edge.

A member used a lathe as a jig in one thread that I can't locate for you- that would be a much more efficient option for both removing the magnet and realigning it. There is a small hole in the centre of the back of the magnet that was tapped and a bolt threaded into it to facilitate this process.

Best of luck with it and congrats on your new speakers.
 
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Thank you. If the magnet has become misaligned would it be visibly evident? The magnet assembly doesn't appear to be off-center. I wonder if the corrosion has caused the voice coils to fuse?
 
No, the movement won't be visible. The magnet will appear to be in its correct position. Once the epoxy has cracked, there's only a tiny shift of the magnet need to happen for the cone to feel seized. Is the surround wrinkled, or not in its usual outward concurve shape in any way? That's a sure indication
It's possible that its corroded. Being closed box systems, there's very little way for moisture to escape once it finds its way inside. Every older speaker that I own here in Japan has minor to major moisture problems due to the very humid summers.
 
Sigh. Passed on a pair of 1000Ms three days ago at $125 for the pair when they didn't take my offer of $80 for the pair. When I went back yesterday they had been sold that morning already. I should know better by now. Thank goodness I did buy the pair I found a couple of months ago.

Congrats on the find, locked woofers or not. Great speaker.
 
Every older speaker that I own here in Japan has minor to major moisture problems due to the very humid summers.

Now you've gone and got me all scared about mine since we have really humid summers here too. :eek:
 
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Snip

A member used a lathe as a jig in one thread that I can't locate for you- that would be a much more efficient option for both removing the magnet and realigning it. There is a small hole in the centre of the back of the magnet that was tapped and a bolt threaded into it to facilitate this process.

Best of luck with it and congrats on your new speakers.

AK member Damage used a mill I believe to realign the magnets on Yamaha JA-305810 NS-1000M woofers. I contacted him recently and he no longer has access to the machine tools, so it's back to the method you used.

I've been through a few NS1000M woofers with magnet shift and was able to find used replacements cheap, so I never addressed the repair like you did. In fact, I have one remaining JA-30510 woofer with a completely separated magnet if anyone needs one.
 
The NS-1000 modification encompasses a completely new crossover using modern Jantzen poly caps and air-core inductor on the mid. I enjoy Gravensen's opinions on things. He's a denmark-Jantzen-Seas-Scanspeak-Accuton guy who ended up loving the NS-1000 Monitors, because he recognized the drivers' potential and made it work for him.
JonVH- just had a look at Gravensen's site. Crikey. Interesting measurements and full documentation of how and why he felt NS-1000 crossovers could be modified.
Now someone's going to have to purchase one of his X/O kits to find out what those coil/cap/res values are!
 
TIGA: How lucky you are in the States to have such bargains to buy... and you are still doubting!
 
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