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Show Us Your Sonys!!!

And, I had got the TA 3200F to go with it.
 

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Phil,

Great looking pieces of equipment.

Ab and YB2,

Since I've decided I need to make my own cases for the 5000FW/1120A set, solid wood seems like the way to go. However, Luan veneered plywood also is an option although I'm a bit put offf my the need to hand-veneer the edges.

For solid wood, I'm a fan of dark red woods. Paduak is nice and red without stains, saving several finishing steps. Anyone with experience working with this stuff? It's supposed to even smell good and is about the same price as solid luan and cheaper than Houduran or African mahogany. I've a sentimental attachment to Honduran mahogany since my home town was a long-time leader as an importation port.

I see where Ab used a solid wood bottom in his case. I'd think that plywood piece would be cheaper - worth the risk?

Don't have the fancy woodworking equipment either so would use peg and glue joinery. No rabbets but haven't figured out how to hang the vent bars on top. Might just use a metal screen instead - it doesn't have to be a complete copy of Sony's work.
 
Yamaha B-2 said:
Going to make a terrific set. Did you end up with the two of these?
I mailed a money order for the other amp on Monday. I haven't decided how I will use it.

I have the Sonys hooked up to a pair of little JBL speakers and they sound nice. I think there is an operator error with the preamp. I can't get it to play through the tuner input, everything works fine through an aux input. I haven't tried connecting a turntable.
 
Now have the TA-2000F service manual in .pdf format if anyone wants. Send me a PM with your e-mail address, but make sure that you can receive a 10meg file as an attachment.
 
Whitehall said:
Phil,

Great looking pieces of equipment.

Ab and YB2,

Since I've decided I need to make my own cases for the 5000FW/1120A set, solid wood seems like the way to go. However, Luan veneered plywood also is an option although I'm a bit put offf my the need to hand-veneer the edges.

For solid wood, I'm a fan of dark red woods. Paduak is nice and red without stains, saving several finishing steps. Anyone with experience working with this stuff? It's supposed to even smell good and is about the same price as solid luan and cheaper than Houduran or African mahogany. I've a sentimental attachment to Honduran mahogany since my home town was a long-time leader as an importation port.

I see where Ab used a solid wood bottom in his case. I'd think that plywood piece would be cheaper - worth the risk?

Don't have the fancy woodworking equipment either so would use peg and glue joinery. No rabbets but haven't figured out how to hang the vent bars on top. Might just use a metal screen instead - it doesn't have to be a complete copy of Sony's work.

Padauk is a nice wood to work and it does smell really nice, even better than yellow cedar. Sounds like you get a good price on it, more expensive than Honduras mahogany around here. I've just finished a new plinth for my TT using it and would do my Sony cases in it if I can find a better price. There are several subspecies that are sold as Padauk, Andaman is the best coloured, African can be fairly orange when freshly cut. It mellows over time to a nice red-brown. I generally finish it with lacquer, oil tends to darken it and turn it much browner quickly.

You could maybe get away with a ply bottom, but I'd be more inclined to just use a strip at the front and another at the back rather than a full size piece with the centre cut out. It would cause less restriction to expansion and contraction which could occur in the case of extreme humidity variation. Using ply will require attaching a padauk nosing at the front since the bottom is visible there. You could also use padauk strips instead of ply, 2 to 3" wide should be plenty

For the vent, I routed out 4 recesses on the bottom side of the top, about halfway through the wood and spaced from edges and each other by about 1". I used my fattest blade on the table saw and cut 1/8" kerfs spaced 1/8" apart on the top side, again about 1/2 way through the wood piercing the wood where the recesses were routed and leaving bars to support the slats between them and at the ends. Quite simple, but requires a bit of care to get the cuts evenly spaced and make sure they are clean.
 
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Phil H said:
I mailed a money order for the other amp on Monday. I haven't decided how I will use it.

I have the Sonys hooked up to a pair of little JBL speakers and they sound nice. I think there is an operator error with the preamp. I can't get it to play through the tuner input, everything works fine through an aux input. I haven't tried connecting a turntable.


If you're lucky, cleaning the function toggle switch will solve that problem. There isn't any trick to the tuner setting other than flipping that switch.
 
absolon said:
If you're lucky, cleaning the function toggle switch will solve that problem. There isn't any trick to the tuner setting other than flipping that switch.

And of course there is a back panel mounted level control for the tuner input. That could be turned all the was down.

Lefty
 
Absolon.

Good suggestions - I'll use two paduak bars, front and rear. Think I can use 4/4 all around without extra milling? I'll try to get two cases from one big piece of wood so they match closely. May need 6.25 board feet by my initial calc.

Another issue is that the amp is 0.7 inches greater in depth than the tuner. I'll make them the same and have a bit extra overhand in the rear of the tuner.

I'd much prefer an deep red oil finish - I've got a sample chunk of paduak that's pretty orange so I'll experiment before I commit. I doubt I have much choice in paduaks locally. If it doesn't look right, I'll go with mahogany.

I have neither a table saw nor a router. I usually get my wood cut to my design at the lumber yard (Southern Lumber in San Jose - great place.) Once I get the machines, I'll get serious about measurements then take some drawings to the yard and get an estimate. They're much more precise than I can be and the cutting charges are cheap.

I'll do the sanding, drilling, pegging, gluing, assembly and finishing then take credit for it all. Of course, that might turn out to "taking blame."
 
Lefty said:
And of course there is a back panel mounted level control for the tuner input. That could be turned all the was down.

Lefty
Thanks for the input. I think it was something I did wrong :screwy: I moved the level controls to see where they were set and then tried it. It works fine. Maybe, I did something wrong like have the monitor switched to tape rather than source. The level contol on the back was very hard to turn at first; I don't know if some corrosion in the level control could have caused the problem. Anyway. all is well now.
 
Got a call today - a guy offers to finally sell me his STR-6200F for $100 plus shipping. Got a factory walnut cabinet too. The downside is that it seems to have the generic Sony MPX problem of no FM stereo.

Looks like I've got "Brian's Syndrome" aka "Sony Collectoritis."

Here's my Sony gear owned or committed:

STR-6200F
STR-6060FW
STR-6800
ST-5000FW
TA-1120A
SCD-C595

Does anyone have a pdf of the 6200's MPX board schematic and maybe the part #s for the MPX front end inductor and transformer?
 
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a cheap preamp for all you sony freaks:

http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?preatran&1144442958
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doug s.
 
Only thing that would make me want her more would be if she were posed on a bear-skin rug. :naughty:

Not quite up to the TA-E88, but still pretty tasty. :thmbsp:
 
at 120$ I'm absolutely totally completely amazed that nobody has grabbed it already.
what are you fellows waiting for?
 
maybe next time . i bought one but it was not good repaired inside sold it
got another one not optical perfect but original
to easy never works
keep trying the preamp is good !
 
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