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Shurlyn speakers

newclassA

Member
I got a pair of these but no model name. Can some one please draw a cartoon of the Xover. It looks like a KEF 104 or 104AB copy using same T27/B200 driver.
 

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A cartoon?
You mean a schematic?
Might be cheaper and easier to buy replacement crossovers? Depending on where you are and how much shipping would cost.
https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/kef-104ab-replacement-capacitor-set.html
What are you trying to do?

If you really meant a cartoon, I like Jonny Quest. South Park. And some Bugs Bunny. Occasionally The Jetsons.
I can cut and paste any of those easier than drawing,
 
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You can follow the circuit from the input to the outputs much more easily than we can - you can turn the board over to see what is going on.
Do that and you may not need any help, but if doesn't make sense, you can attach your schematic and we can help.
 
ou can follow the circuit from the input to the outputs much more easily than we can - you can turn the board over to see what is going on.
Do that and you may not need any help, but if doesn't make sense, you can attach your schematic and we can help.
I will try. Thank you.
Edit: Picture added.
 

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Cartoon Definition & Meaning - Merriam-Webster

Definition of cartoon
1: a preparatory design, drawing, or painting (as for a fresco)
2a: a drawing intended as satire, caricature, or humora political cartoon
b: COMIC STRIP
3: ANIMATED CARTOON
4: a ludicrously simplistic, unrealistic, or one-dimensional portrayal or version

Calling a schematic a cartoon is a new one to me.
Schematic or electrical diagram would be more appropriate.

I do hope you get your cartoon figured out.
 
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You can follow the circuit from the input to the outputs much more easily than we can - you can turn the board over to see what is going on.
Do that and you may not need any help, but if doesn't make sense, you can attach your schematic and we can help.
Ok, I figured it out, correct me if I miss anything. These are significantly different from the KEF crossover for 104AB. Please express your thoughts on the differences.
 

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IMG_9436.jpeg And here is mine after new tweeter D-2801XL-M01 from Dynavox was installed. Unfortunately Tweeters that came with them were both nonfunctional (one KEF T27 and Audax HD100D25A). I attempted to fix them with after market diaphragm/voice coil (will add some picture later) but was not satisfied with the results. So decided to go with Dynavox D-2801XL.
Oh, they sound amazing.
 
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Hey newclassA!

Nice looking speakers! Looking at the crossovers, the little white plastic jobbers are film caps, not resistors. The high-pass crossover is identical to the the KEF HP filter topology. On the Low-Pass, it should show both resistors in parallel with the inductors. That's used here to dial in baffle step compensation or adjust the slope of the filter sections. Also note - they are running the tweeter with inverted polarity, just as KEF did.

Happy listening!
 
Thank you TomSc for pointing that out.
Also note - they are running the tweeter with inverted polarity, just as KEF did.
I think I did that, but will check again when I am changing the electrolytics with film.
Here is a question. New tweeters are 6 ohms and some time it feels like they are little bright, what I can do to lower the tweeter volume (variable or fixed resistor and which point on the crossover).
 
It looks like the inverted polarity has been done on the crossover board. The Blue wire is connected to the neg trace - I'm guessing that goes to the + on the tweeter. If that's how you have them connected, you should be good to go. If you reversed them, try swapping the leads and see if things sound any better.

If you are still not happy with the sound, you can try adding some series resistance inline with the tweeter after the crossover to tame the brightness. I would probably try a few different small values, like 0.5 - 2 ohms, until it sounds right. Cheap enough to buy a few different values.

Now adding that extra resistance will change the overall impedance seen by the network, so it will change the slope and final response too. Hopefully for the better. That's the way it goes when replacing an NLA driver in a known design. Without the exact same tweeter, they will never sound the same due to many factors coming into play. That's also why off the shelf crossovers or simple online calculators almost never provide great results.
 
Well my ambitious attempt to fix the T27 tweeter failed terribly. Here are some pictures:IMG_9444.jpeg IMG_9438.jpeg

On the other hand, Audax tweeters sounded ok with the voice coil.
 

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Well my ambitious attempt to fix the T27 tweeter failed terribly.

I just did the same repair on a t27 tweeter. On mine the replacement voice coil and dome are glued on top of the body. Looks like yours is sandwiched between the tweeter body and the removable round disk that the wire connections are sitting on, I wonder if this is the source of your problems.
I have seen the before and after for replacing the voice coil on some sites and they are positioned like yours. I just wonder if this is really the correct way.

I also put an AAA battery to the wires to determine the polarity as it wasn't obvious to me otherwise. positive terminal on the battery to positive on the coil will make the coil rise and if you put positive to negative the dome will go downward.

P1030863.JPG


P1030868.JPG

This is what I had after disassembly, the yellow is where the dome was removed from and where I glued the dome on top of. They work fine.
P1030871.JPG

Sorry no after pics at the moment.
 
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I just did the same repair on a t27 tweeter.
I was really busy with other stuff, but i am looking forward to work on this during hibernation. The new tweeters are really working superbly to my ears and these are excellent speaker. I am thinking to add as much info as possible to recognize them.
 
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