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Sir.Byrd's 2226H based super speaker project

Added some wires:
DEC182.jpg

Installing:
DEC181.jpg

Installed:
DEC184.jpg

Feet installed:
DEC183.jpg
 
Looking good Byrd!

I haven't been keeping up, but it appears at a glance that you did go with Wayne's latest 4Pi crossover network after all. Great place to start, possibly finish :yes:

RC
 
I figure that I might have to change out the resistors if anything, so I will temporarily fasten them in place, and the whole crossover is removable with 3 machine screws.
 
I would really like to be able to hear what the end product sounds like. Bring them on over to Tennessee when you get the chance.:D
 
Sir.Byrd said:
I figure that I might have to change out the resistors if anything, so I will temporarily fasten them in place, and the whole crossover is removable with 3 machine screws.
Click to expand...

Thats good planning if you find your wanting to fiddle around with things a bit.

If you feel the need to alter things a bit in the attenuation, you might be changing out the series cap on the tweeter also. Attenuating another 3dB might have you looking for a .33uF to sub for the .47uF

RC
 
Sir.Byrd said:
Didn't think of that... the .47 is epoxied down!
Click to expand...

Patience and a sharp bladed box cutter will take care of that :thmbsp:

I like to silicone things in place. The stuff can be messy sometimes but holds like crazy after drying and allows for a pretty quick swap out if ya feel the need.

RC
 
With such nice crossovers components, why skimp on the internal wiring and use such a high gauge? Or is it better than it looks?
 
As usual nice pics!
How's it soldering to the foil inductors? Plus, I guess it's okay to "uncoil" an inductor like the one in the upper right corne(of the pic)r as long as not to much wire is unfurled????
Have fun!!!!!
 
fdejong said:
With such nice crossovers components, why skimp on the internal wiring and use such a high gauge? Or is it better than it looks?
Click to expand...

Firstly, it wasn't my choice, but it shouldn't matter. It is 16AWG and I will trim it to be as short as possible, the inductors have far length at the same gauge.

tubed said:
As usual nice pics!
How's it soldering to the foil inductors? Plus, I guess it's okay to "uncoil" an inductor like the one in the upper right corne(of the pic)r as long as not to much wire is unfurled????
Have fun!!!!!
Click to expand...

It is pure copper, very easy to solder to. I didn't uncoil the inductors an inch, they had that long of leads as is, and I used them so I did not need to use much wire on the board.
 
If further fiddling with the crossovers is in the plan, you might consider the solution worked out years ago on the KLH model Twelve. Bring out the leads of the individual drivers to the exterior back surface to screw connections and put the crossovers themselves in a chassis with outputs to the aforementioned screws. You can tweek for years without needing to open the cabinets again. Just a thought...
Cheers!
 
oiseaux said:
If further fiddling with the crossovers is in the plan, you might consider the solution worked out years ago on the KLH model Twelve. Bring out the leads of the individual drivers to the exterior back surface to screw connections and put the crossovers themselves in a chassis with outputs to the aforementioned screws. You can tweek for years without needing to open the cabinets again. Just a thought...
Cheers!
Click to expand...

I would do that but I have a feeling it won't fly with my friend.
 
Got the final batch of fasteners... maybe these will be done by the end of the week? We have every part now except for the outer covering, which is looking like sheet rubber at this point.
 
Not long now!
2226 just does everything right- you're going to love the mids and tight bass. Run with two flanking subs, they take on a whole 'nuther dimension. Do you have subs or plans to use any?
 
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