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Solder - lead, silver or lead free? What thickness?

Another solder question: At what temp should I set my digital solder station for 63/37 solder? (I'm pretty sure I've set it too high the few times I've used it.) I have the popular cheapie station which Radio Shack sold out of a few years ago - seems to work well, though the tip could be finer. I recall reading that replacement tips for that model weren't available anymore - at least at RS at the time. I assume tips are steel and could be fashioned? Or I can grind the one I have a little?

So that's two questions...temps and tips.

I don't know about tips, but in my experience, the ideal soldering iron temp, depends on what you are soldering, not the solder it self.

If I'm soldering small SMD components, I don't want the temp very high, if I'm soldering thick speaker wires on to solid metal forks, I want a very hot soldering iron.
I'm not sure of the exact temps I work at, at work I use an older Weller, if I am to believe the temp dial, I work at between 350C and 400C, depending on how much heat the stuff I'm working on can absorb.
 
Another solder question: At what temp should I set my digital solder station for 63/37 solder? (I'm pretty sure I've set it too high the few times I've used it.) I have the popular cheapie station which Radio Shack sold out of a few years ago - seems to work well, though the tip could be finer. I recall reading that replacement tips for that model weren't available anymore - at least at RS at the time. I assume tips are steel and could be fashioned? Or I can grind the one I have a little?

So that's two questions...temps and tips.

Personally, I like to use a fine tip at 800 degrees (I work fast and use heatsinks on sensitive components) but I believe that 700 degrees is generally recommended for general purpose soldering. Tips are usually plated to resist erosion so grinding them smaller is not advised.
 
I recently read somewhere that solder is actually not a very good conductor and that its main purpose is to hold the joint together and prevent oxidation. Hence the importance of a good physical connection before soldering. :dunno:
 
I recently read somewhere that solder is actually not a very good conductor and that its main purpose is to hold the joint together and prevent oxidation. Hence the importance of a good physical connection before soldering. :dunno:

I have read the same, and this chart backs that up:

05%5B1%5D.jpg
 
Yet solder contains silver. And if it had poor conductivity why would we use it on the end of speaker wires?
 
800 F is too high for Sn63/Pb37. I'd recommend more along the lines of 600-650F. Also keep in mind that components have temperature maximums. 800F = 427C, way beyond what most components can withstand for more than a second or two.
 
Yet solder contains silver. And if it had poor conductivity why would we use it on the end of speaker wires?

Leaded solder does not contain silver, at least Sn63/Pb37, as it's nothing but tin and lead. 63+37 equals 100, so no silver in that.
 
SAC305 seems to be one of the most popular lead free alloys. It's 3% silver, .5% copper, and the rest is tin. Its conductivity is better than tin/lead solder, but it shouldn't be an issue.

With modern surface mount soldering, the solder provides the only connection. Components literally float on top of the solder during soldering.

When you consider the fact that most places require recycling of electronic waste, lead free solder kind of loses its environmental advantage. There's nothing wrong with lead if it's used in a responsible way. In fact, I've heard that all the extra tin mining is actually worse for the environment than if we had stuck with lead. You also have to consider the huge cost of the conversion (including all the electronics that failed prematurely while companies were learning how to solder properly with lead free).
 
Well at least the industry has learned how to use lead free solder, if we had continued to use leaded solder, they probably wouldn't have.

There probably are situations where the harder lead free solder, with it's higher melting point, has it's advantages.
 
SAC305 seems to be one of the most popular lead free alloys. It's 3% silver, .5% copper, and the rest is tin. Its conductivity is better than tin/lead solder, but it shouldn't be an issue.

With modern surface mount soldering, the solder provides the only connection. Components literally float on top of the solder during soldering.

When you consider the fact that most places require recycling of electronic waste, lead free solder kind of loses its environmental advantage. There's nothing wrong with lead if it's used in a responsible way. In fact, I've heard that all the extra tin mining is actually worse for the environment than if we had stuck with lead. You also have to consider the huge cost of the conversion (including all the electronics that failed prematurely while companies were learning how to solder properly with lead free).

With life being what it is, no 'mandatory recycling' will succeed in keeping
people from throwing much of their used electronic stuff into ordinary trash.
Thus the idea of limiting lead content in electronics does make some sense,
even though it does lead (no pun intended) to a lot of technical problems.
Regarding the conductivity issue, solder joints are so small than even
the least conductive metals will usually yield low resistance in series
with the component. Regards.
 
Well at least the industry has learned how to use lead free solder, if we had continued to use leaded solder, they probably wouldn't have.

There probably are situations where the harder lead free solder, with it's higher melting point, has it's advantages.

Actually the industry hasn't learned how to use it, at least not entirely. Solder paste manufacturers are still to this day trying to come up with new formulations to reduce voids, especially in BGA's. Voiding is a big issue with modern consumer electronics which are all manufactured with lead free. In my opinion, there was no need to use lead free in the first place, and it's an inferior product at this point.

In fact, I just fixed a girls Sony laptop a few months back that wasn't even a year old because the BGA video chip needed to be reflowed to work. I took it apart and put the board on my rework machine and fluxed it and reflowed it. I'm a SMT process engineer and do this everyday, and I have seen a lot of failures contributed to pb free solder. I personally think it sucks for a number of reasons.

I also cannot think of a case where the higher melting temperature is an advantage. Every component on the board has to be subjected to considerably higher temperatures, and heat is never a good thing for electrical components. Sn63/Pb37 melts at 183c, a typical SAC 305 melts around 220c. You have to heat the board and components quite a bit more, at least 30 c more, on a pb free board vs a leaded assembly.
 
For small stuff like caps and resistors I use "Lead-free silver bearing solder.
4% silver. It's called 96/4. The size is .032" dia.
You can walk into your local radio-shack to get it.
For me,...it's perfect.:yes:
I used it to completely recap my Sansui AU-919.
 
One more thing I'd like to point out is that how well lead free solders perform over time remains to be seen as it's only been around since about 2005. We at least know for a fact that tin/lead solder works for many decades.

Lead free didn't come about because it was deemed a better product, or worked better, or had any advantage whatsoever. I came out of "feel good" policy in the EU. We may come to find out it's even worse than I already know it is. On the other hand, the solder manufacturers may eventually get all the kinks ironed out, it will just become a completely suitable replacement.
 
Actually the industry hasn't learned how to use it, at least not entirely. Solder paste manufacturers are still to this day trying to come up with new formulations to reduce voids, especially in BGA's. Voiding is a big issue with modern consumer electronics which are all manufactured with lead free. In my opinion, there was no need to use lead free in the first place, and it's an inferior product at this point.

In fact, I just fixed a girls Sony laptop a few months back that wasn't even a year old because the BGA video chip needed to be reflowed to work. I took it apart and put the board on my rework machine and fluxed it and reflowed it. I'm a SMT process engineer and do this everyday, and I have seen a lot of failures contributed to pb free solder. I personally think it sucks for a number of reasons.

I also cannot think of a case where the higher melting temperature is an advantage. Every component on the board has to be subjected to considerably higher temperatures, and heat is never a good thing for electrical components. Sn63/Pb37 melts at 183c, a typical SAC 305 melts around 220c. You have to heat the board and components quite a bit more, at least 30 c more, on a pb free board vs a leaded assembly.

At the very least it has gotten a lot better then it used to.
Back in year 2002-2007 there where really serious problems with the solder, especially the Mobility Radeon sereis GPU's up to the X300/600/700/800 series.
And of cause the infamous Geforce 8000 series.

But those are pretty extreme cases, temperatures can go fro 50C to 80C in seconds, the chip may dissipate between 25w and 100w I'm pretty sure this would stress leaded solder as well.
Before the change to lead free solder, computer components didn't produce quite as much heat as modern ones.
So I don't think we can blame lead free solder exclusively, the challenge of bonding a high power chip, with very low idle power draw and hundreds of pins to a PCB is very difficult.

Also, the general quality of laptops has gone down since 2004, everything has to be thin and light.
This makes making a rigid chassis a bigger challenge, especially if you want to keep costs down.
With a flexible chassis, the motherboard in the laptop, will flex as much as the chassis, this will ruin leaded or lead free soldered mobos, it's just a matter of time.
Many people see no problem with holding their laptops by the corner, this will flex the chassis a lot, all the weight of the laptop is held by a very small area of contact and will stress even the toughest of laptops.
Also, a thinner and lighter laptop is easier to hold by the corner, making people more likely to do it, making failures more common.
 
I recently read somewhere that solder is actually not a very good conductor and that its main purpose is to hold the joint together and prevent oxidation. Hence the importance of a good physical connection before soldering. :dunno:

Interesting; that makes me wonder how much better (3%/4%?) silver-bearing solder conducts than 63/37 solder.
 
I think they quit selling the leaded, did they not?

Yes, for plumbing in the US, but not electronics.

Not really. They banned the USE of lead solder for potable water plumbing. They still sell it for heating systems etc.

Too bad because many plumbers don't know and/or don't care since they don't plan to be drinking from your tap. I would never buy it because some helper may grab the wrong roll and non- lead solder is just as good or better, stronger, for soldering copper pipe.

Lead is ok as long as you don't handle it with your bare hands or breathe the smoke. You won't notice if you are accumulating lead in your body until someone notices how much dumber you are getting. That is not a joke.
 
Silver is added to solder to increase its melting point. It's used for circuits that live next to jet engines and ovens. That kind of thing. Its the exact opposite of what you want in audio circuits.

A lot of people think that it "improves" the circuit by being lower resistance. It doesn't. ;)

Exactly the opposite. Silver is a better conductor then tin and lead. Silver isn't "added" to increase the melting point, lead is added to solder to decrease the melting point.
 
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