The best way to determine if a component, like a phono stage, has hum is to short the inputs on the suspected component.
Some Empire Turntable History
- Thread starter empirelvr
- Start date
doug s.
Super Member
just like it's supposed to be...
you can get a manual here:
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/empire/598-troubador.shtml
doug s.
you can get a manual here:
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/empire/598-troubador.shtml
doug s.
Does anyone know of someone who can refurbish or restore an Empire 598iii engine? Mine stopped working. I have it with High Performance Audio on Cape Cod and he has been looking for a replacement motor for three years with no luck yet. He knew of someone who used to repair this type of engine, but is no more. In Maine, or New York State I think he told me?
MisterDK
Addicted Member
A similar Papst motor was used in the Empire 208, 298, 398 - and in several Rek-O-Kut turntables, starting with their K-33H, I think.
It shouldn’t be hard to find one and if not a direct bolt-in, should be fine for parts…
Just be sure that it doesn't just need lubrication. There is a bearing where the shaft comes out and one on the rear bell housing.
I did a research regarding Papst motors, and you can source a similar engine from old grundig tape (r2r?) decks. Look for a green außenläufer. Have no idea how hard it is to get on in the US. In germany they are easy to find and cheap enough. Might have a different mounting, but this could be an advantage, to decouple the motor from the top plate.
bktheking
Gitter Done!
I found a motor in 30 seconds on ebay , ebay seller is in Canada. Legend or not, he needs to look harder, 3 years is a long time to wait for a repair. These aren't rare tables, motors are plentiful. No affiliation, seller is audio*parts.
I'm curious to hear why your tech condemned the motor. Unless it had a short deep within a coil (unlikely), there's not much that can kill these motors. The most common failure is a break or failed solder joint where a lead wire is soldered to a coil. Careful removing of the insulation and a solder retouch is usually all they require, and this itself is very rare. I'm actually servicing my Rek O Kut R-34 right now and took some coil readings. In my case, I get 250 ohms between each of the three windings.
Has your tech checked the windings?
I have a friend who is resurrecting his 5XX Empire table. I pointed him to this thread to find the right belt for it.
This IS THE reference thread for all tables Empire.
This IS THE reference thread for all tables Empire.
Dr Morbius
Well-Known Member
I agree with bktheking, the large capacitor between the on button and the motor could go bad, causing the motor to appear dead.
I have had the same problem with my VPI HW 19 (original). It was a film cap. This is the first time I have seen a film cap fail.
I suggest a film cap the same value and at least 330V.
The cap absorbs a spike in voltage that could, might cause a pop in your system when you turn the table on and off.
I suggest a film cap the same value and at least 330V.
The cap absorbs a spike in voltage that could, might cause a pop in your system when you turn the table on and off.
My friend who is restoring his Empire 5XX table couldn't find a definitive answer on the proper belt. I was under the impression that one had been found.
Can someone help me/him out.
Can someone help me/him out.
bolero
Super Member
The Esoteric belt listed in this thread. Here's a link
https://www.esotericsound.com/access.htm
About three quarters of the way down the page.
Sorry had to edit that a few times, my browser kept freezing. Listed as 598/698 belt
https://www.esotericsound.com/access.htm
About three quarters of the way down the page.
Sorry had to edit that a few times, my browser kept freezing. Listed as 598/698 belt
Last edited:
I can't get that link to work. Can you help?